CVA Mountain Pistol - Getting Started

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dz

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I have a CVA Mountain .50 cal Pistol, but exactly zero experience in using black powder guns.

What do I need to buy to get started?

I know I need primer caps, some sort of bullets or balls, and obviously powder.

But how do I determine which primer caps are right for my gun, what bullets/balls should I uses, are there different kinds of powder, and is there anything else I should get?
 
Best thing to do is go to Cabela's and get what you need. Powder, percussion cap, ball, patch, lube, etc.
 
But how do I determine which primer caps are right for my gun, what bullets/balls should I uses, are there different kinds of powder, and is there anything else I should get?

Any #11 percussion cap will usually always fit a standard CVA nipple.
A .490 ball with either a lubed .010 or .015 patch will usually provide a fairly good fit to start with. The .015's will fit a little tighter but you can buy both and see which works best.
There's several different kinds of powder. Besides black powder, the easiest to find is Pyrodex which is the most like it. 777 is a more powerful powder that requires that 15% less be used compared to the others. 777 burns cleaner but is more expensive.
The finer Pyrodex P granulation is preferable for use with pistols.
The Mountain Pistol can generally be loaded with anywhere from about 25 - 50 grains of powder more or less.
There's a bunch of accessories that are needed.
A powder measure or use brass cases to measure powder:
Here's a list of cartridge case capacities to use for measuring powder.

Cartridge Grains
.22 LR = 5
.320 ACP = 7
.380 ACP = 10
.30 cal Carbine = 20
.38 Special = 23
.357 Mag = 27
.45 Auto = 26
.44 Colt = 35
.45 Colt = 41
.38-40 = 40
.30-30 = 42
.30-06 = 70
.45-70 = 83

9mm = 13.3
40 S&W = 19.3

A powder flask is helpful for pouring powder into a measure although a mustard or food squeeze container with a spout or small opening will work.
A nipple wrench for removing the nipple.
A nipple pick and cleaning the nipple hole, but a sewing needle will work.
A ball starter to help push or start the patched ball into the muzzle.
You will need cleaning components to clean the barrel out with, possibly a BP solvent, and a lubricant like TC Bore Butter that can used to lubricate patches and the bore after cleaning.
A cleaning jag to help pull cleaning patches up and down the barrel.
Some folks find that a capper is helpful to put caps on the nipple so that they don't need to be handled one at a time.
The TC clear view snail shaped capper works well and holds a lot of caps.
 
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Dz,

As a general rule of thumb, solid ball loads are generally a tad under bore size, to allow for the thickness of the patch, .490, .495. Mini-Balls (Concave hollow based conicals, the base exands to fill the rifling when the charge ignites.) are generally sized to the exact caliber, .500, and conical solids, just a teency smidgen oversized, .510 or .520. The nice thing about conicals are that they have lubrication grooves on the sides, and are pre-lubbed, saving you the messy step of lubing the bullet in the field, which tends to get all over your hands, and, handling black powder, and black powder residue, you tend to end up pretty grimy, pretty quick. Obviously, the nice thing about the mini-balls, is that they fit down the barrel easily, because they are sized to the exact diameter, and, are wonderfully accurate and deadly, comming in many different grainage weights.

As far as all your accessories are concerned. Well, we call them varmits "possibles" in our neck of the woods !!! They are available from most major distributors like CVA (Conecticut Valley Arms), The Possibles Shop, Dixie Gun Works, Cabela's Sporting Goods, just all major BP supplies carry a wide range of possibles. Obviously, you will be toting around alot of possibles with you, our guns love attention and proper care and feeding. SO, first on your list, is a possibles bag, a handy over shoulder bag to keep all your toys in and drag around with you. Alot of people complain that they look like some kind of "man purse", well, they pre-date man purses by several hundred years, and nobody in their right mind would call an armed man in a suede fringe jacket a sissy boy because of his possibles bag.

When I was a kid, and didn't have much money for my passtimes and hobbies, I acutally gutted several old womens bags and used them as my possibles bags. I just replaced the purse strap handles with a length of plain leather, that had a belt buckle at one end, and looped the thin leather belt through the fastening ring on the purse. Of course, I chose to use women's purses that were plain and simple, in subdued colors, so the guys wouldn't razz me too bad out rabbit or duck hunting. They look fine actually, no "pursier" than the expensive possible bags out there, and are alot cheaper, In some ways I liked them better, because they are generally set up with several sub compartments, and dividers in them, some even have a snap lock change pouch sewn in, which is PERFECT for a couple of tins of caps !!! So, I didn't mind the guys razzing me too bad, I spent exactly ZERO bucks on my possibles bags, and they all spent outrageous prices for theirs !!! LOL !!!

In addition to the other items specified here, having a corkscrew bullet remover that threads into your ramrod or break down pocket cleaning rod, is a good idea. Sometimes a ball or conical is malformed, and gets stuck somewhere down the barrel and needs to be removed. It sure is handy, to have one of those around, saving you having to pack up the gun until you get it back home again.

Other accessories, that you don't carry around with you, are fun too. Casting your own balls and conicals is easy as pie, and very rewarding for alot of BP shooters. The Lee molds are very inexpensive, comming in at around $20.00 at some suppliers, and up to about $30.00 or so for a double cavity ball or conical, or single cavity mini-ball. Lee has a very good selection of diameters, grainage weights, and styles. There are other manufacturers of molds out there, such as lyman, etc, and they do tend to offer a wide range of products as well. You can go with a simple stove top melting pot for around $17/$20 or invest a little more in an electric lead furnace, some of the less expensive home hobbyist ones start at around $40, for around $100 you can get a really nice, 20lb capacity, production style of electric melting pot, that is elevated up a bit, and has a dispensing spigot, and long handled lever for dispensing the melted lead, into the molds, under the base of the pot.

As far as powders are concerned, Cabela's is a good source for the BP substitutes, for actual real BP, there are several online distributors out there that will ship you BP through the mail, but be forewarned, you have to pay a $20.00 hazmat fee for each shipment. Most people, when ordering BP through mail order, bulk order it, buying buying 25 or up to 50 lbs of powder in one order, many places will cover the Hazmat Fee and shipping for you, if you order 25 or more pounds in one order.

A good BP supplier that I like to order from is called "The Maine Powder House", they have very good prices on Goex, and other brands of real BP. Their link follows,

http://mainepowderhouse.com/

I hope you found some of this helpful to you, and, welcome to the BP Forum !!!

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David, "EW"
 
Dz,

I shoot a Thompson Center Patriot .45 cal pistol. The charges I use are usually 20- 24 grs FFFG. Loading much more than that would probably be a waste of powder. I have seen stocks that have been broken because of heavy loads, and one severly injured hand in particular. Pistol stocks generally do not stand up to the stresses a rifle stock will.

I would recommend you start with a .490 cal ball, pillow ticking for a patch, a good patch lube, and 24-25 gr FFFG. Simple and easy.

Be sure to wash the pillow ticking a couple of times to get the sizing out of it. Cut it into strips about 1 1/4" or 1 3/8". Roll up the strips and toss them into your shooting bag or box. I cut square patches. I have found no difference in accuracy between the square patches and those cut at the muzzle.

I use a short starter to seat the ball and patch. The loading rod end of the short starter is long enough to load the pistol. That way I don't have to worry about breaking or losing the rod that comes with the pistol. It also doubles as the cleaning rod.:cool:
 
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