Cylinder build up

[notbubba]

I have a lot of build up in the cylinder chambers of my stainless .357 from firing lead SWC .38 specials.

What's the best way to clean & remove the build up?

CPL, break cleaner & a brass brush ain't getting the job done.

 

[hnk45acp]

Kleenbore Leadaway cloths are pretty good.

 

[.38 Special]

I might just be lazy, but I like to chuck a .40 brass brush into the drill motor, dip it into some solvent, and spin the hell out of each charge hole. Takes about 15 seconds per hole on a badly fouled gun, and I haven't caused any damage yet.

 

[joneb]

Step #1 brush (copper) cylinder with solvent and let it sit for a bit, step #2 then use a patch. Repeat step #1 but let solvent sit a bit longer, step #3 now use patch (add some more solvent) and brush together aided by a vs speed drill at 500 rpm. Repeat step #2.
If this does'nt work repeat all steps above which I'll call step #7

Kleen Bore offers cylinder brushes.

 

[The Good]

has anyone tried hoppe's elite

 

[MR.G]

I usually use a Lewis Lead Remover, followed by a brush and Hoppes solvent.

 

[OleSarge]

Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner


Just purchased a Rossi snub at a very good price however, it was really dirty and very leaded up. Read a post somewhere about this product called Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner.

Went to the web site at www.big45metalcleaner.com, first surprise was the price only $4.oo. Placed order, received product in couple of days. Cleaned all the lead out of the barrel in approximately 15 seconds. This stuff is great, especially on stainless steel. There are some cautions when using on blued guns.

 

[critter]

Buy a COPPER 'Chore Girl' at grocery store. Wrap a few strands around your .38 bore brush. VERY agressive on the lead and powder buildup and won't hurt the gun a bit as the Cu is too soft to scratch it.

 

[115grfmj]

hands down the easiest way.....

either birchwood casey or hoppes lead remover cloth. Lead and powder wipe right off with a minimum of fuss . It will amaze you, ho much elbow grease is required to get them off with a brush and solvent:banghead:

 

[.38 Special]

I must be a complete idiot because I never could get those lead cloths to work for me. And then somebody stole the only stainless gun I owned, so made the whole issue moot. (Those cloths remove bluing too, if anyone didn't know it.)

 

[Brian Williams]

Take a fired 357 case, deprime it, DO NOT RESIZE IT, and use a file and cut a few notches or teeth in the case mouth, screw in a #6x3/4" dry wall screw into the primer hole. Push the case into the charge hole and spin it with a screwdriver, 2 or 3 times around and the notches will clean out any crud. The brass will not harm the cylinder but the notches or teeth will take out any crud. If it stops working just bell the case mouth a little.

 

[shooting on a shoestring]

Lead cutter loads

I've never seen lead fouling in any of my revolvers (which see much use and few jackets) that could not be cleaned out in 50 strokes of a proper brush (slightly larger than the hole being brushed). I do prefer to eliminate or at least drastically reduce even that small amount of labor by using lead cutter loads.

These are hand loads, and for .357 I use 3.5 gr HP-38, Lyman 358356 in wheel weight, remaining case space filled with Cream of Wheat. In .45Colt I use 6 gr HP-38, Lyman 454424, and Cream of Wheat.

Six shots usually does the trick, once I used 12 to clean up after .45Colt loads - Lyman 454190 in wheel weight at 1300 fps.

If you do use a brush, use rifle brushes. They're longer and do more brushing per stroke. Use bronze, brass, copper - anything harder than lead and soft than gun parts.