Cylinder opening problem with S&W 19-5

[Janitor]

Pretty much says it in the subject line.

It is hard to open the cylinder on my 19-5. I have to apply pressure towards the rear of the revolver as well as simply to the side to get it to swing out. With empty casings in it, it's a bit harder to open. With something thick like snap caps, darn near impossible.

This something that could be dealt with?
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[Brian Williams]

Check the ejector rod if it is loose, Remember it is reverse thread.

 

[Sunray]

"...Check the ejector rod..." Yep. I was forever tightening the rod on the one I had. Some people suggest Locktite to keep it in, but once you know what to do you'll just check it every time you open the action.

 

[Janitor]

Thanks much guys.

I've been itching to get out of here and try that ever since Brian first suggested it this morning. And now with a 2nd confirming opinion?

Ok. I'm getting out of here in the next few minutes. This is going to drive me nuts. That - and I've been here since 05:15 and it's now almost 16:00. Long enough.
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[Janitor]

Nice.

Just as S&W had intended it.

Thanks very much guys. That did the trick.
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[Standing Wolf]

Some people suggest Locktite to keep it in, but once you know what to do you'll just check it every time you open the action.

That's okay if it's not a carry gun.

A drop of nail polish works as well as the expensive stuff from the hardware store.

 

[Jim K]

Loc-Tite will do OK. There is almost never a good reason for removing the extractor from a revolver, so even a semi-permanent grade should be OK. I know I will hear from people who insist on taking a revolver down into its tiniest parts for routine cleaning (and losing or breaking stuff in doing so). All I can ask is whether you remove all your parts when you need to take a bath.

Jim

 

[Janitor]

While I tightened the extractor rod, I was thinking of whether or not this was a step I wanted to have to remember if I were reloading under duress. Given that one of the reasons to use revolvers is the simple manual of arms it seemed to me you wouldn't want to add to it needlessly.

Personally, I like the loc-tite/nail polish idea.
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[mcole]

you might also consider brushing one side of the thread with clear nail polish, then tighten in up. works just as well and locktite and much easier to get loose again. mcole

 

[MNgoldenbear]

I know I will hear from people who insist on taking a revolver down into its tiniest parts for routine cleaning (and losing or breaking stuff in doing so). All I can ask is whether you remove all your parts when you need to take a bath.

Well, no. But then again, I usually don't have so much powder fouling gumming me up that I can't rotate anymore. (I guess that means I just must not be getting in enough range time! Darn! )

 

[MNgoldenbear]

While I tightened the extractor rod, I was thinking of whether or not this was a step I wanted to have to remember if I were reloading under duress. Given that one of the reasons to use revolvers is the simple manual of arms it seemed to me you wouldn't want to add to it needlessly.

Personally, I like the loc-tite/nail polish idea.
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That should be fine, too, but it really shouldn't loosen up so easily. Just make sure it's reasonably tight to begin with. If there's any chance of having to reload 'under duress', make absolutely sure that everything is working correctly every time! If the polish/loctite works for you, go ahead. Just make it 100% reliable. (Very poor etiquette to have to stop and ask the thug who's bent on taking your life to wait a moment while you attend to some minor repairs on your gun. ) I don't think I've ever had my 686 extractor loosen up, and when I shoot it, I shoot it a lot! Also, I remember that it was advised to have something like a few empties in the chambers supporting the extractor star if you were were tightening/loosening the rod, to keep from bending the star or rod. I do this, and I do happen to strip the cylinder some of the time. Mostly when it just gets too much crud in it and it doesn't rotate freely any more.