S&W 10-5 Locking bolt problem

[CubanoLibre]

I have a S&W 10-5 revolver (4"). I am having big problems opening up the cylinder. If I push on the thumb latch the cylinder won't open. The only way to open it is to grab the end of the LOCKING BOLT and pull it forward (not an easy task) and then the cylinder opens. I have removed the thumb release and oiled inside, and have inspected and oiled the locking bolt from both sides. Any ideas how to fix the problem? Do I need to replace locking bolt? Is this difficult to do? Is it a problem with the center pin or ejection rod?? Help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[1911Tuner]

By "Locking Bolt" I'm assuming that you mean the ejector rod, since you can barely see the locking bolt...the "Stop Bolt"...when the cylinder is locked into the frame. It's that little half moon-shaped jobbie that sticks up in the bottom of the frame, and engages the notches in the cylinder.

It sounds like the rod has unscrewed a bit. Swing the cylinder out and check for that.

It has left hand threads on it, so remember to tighten it "backward."

Load 6 empty cases in the chambers, and use a piece of leather or heavy cloth on the rod to prevent marring it. Grab it with pliers, and tighten it. Be careful not to place a side-load on the rod. If it gets bent or warped, you've got a whole new set of problems.

 

[Old Fuff]

Tuner's solution is the most likely, but if it doesn't solve the problem try this"

With the cylinder latched, pull it backwards as far as you can with the left thumb and forefinger, and then push on the thumbpiece with the right thumb and see if the cylinder is easier to unlatch and swing out. If this works come back for more instructions.

 

[CubanoLibre]

Thank you guys for your prompt response. By locking bolt I mean part #66 on above schematic. The problem is not with the "bolt" (cylinder catch - part #22).

I am able to release/open the cylinder by pulling on the end of the locking bolt when I'm pushing on the cylinder release (#22) lever.:banghead:

 

[Jim K]

Yes, it sounds like the extractor rod (part 1) has become unscrewed a couple of threads. That means the center pin (2) won't come even with the end of the extractor rod, leaving a hollow even when the thumbpiece is pushed all the way forward. The locking bolt falls into that hollow and prevents the cylinder from opening. Screwing the extractor rod in completely (it screws into the extractor (9)) will correct the problem.

NOTE WHAT TUNER SAID ABOUT LEFT HAND THREADS!

Jim

 

[1911Tuner]

Get the cylinder out and see if the ejector rod has unscrewed. If it turns easily, it's not supposed to. If it does...tighten it up and see if the cylinder releases as it should.

 

[Old Fuff]

When you push on the thumbpiece (21) which is attached to the bolt (22) it moves the bolt forward againist the center pin (2) within the cylinder. The front of the center pin then pushes the locking bolt (66) forward, and at this point the cylinder assembly should be unlatched so that it can be swung out to the left.

If the extractor rod (1) which is really a tube, is slightly unscrewed the center pin cannot push the locking bolt forward far enough so the locking bolt is clear of the extractor rod's end, so you can't open the cylinder.

At this point I can tell you what is happening, or not as the case may be - but not why it is - without examining the revolver.

If the extractor rod is screwed tight I would suspect that there is something caught between the bolt and frame that's preventing it from being pushed forward far enough to push the center rod the distance it has to go to push the locking bolt clear of the end of the extractor rod. Annother possibility is a bent center pin, extractor rod, or both.

Yet another possibility is that the locking bolt spring (65) is so filled with fouling, dirt, (whatever) that it won't compress far enough so that the locking bolt can clear the end of the extractor rod..

If the cause and solution aren't obvious you may have to take it to a gunsmith, or better yet send it into S&W, where they have special pin punches and screwdrivers - as well as other tools - to completely disassemble and inspect the gun.

 

[CubanoLibre]

Thank YOU!!

Thank all of you for your suggestions and interest. PROBLEM SOLVED!! The extractor rod (#1) was indeed not tight enough, though it appeared tight. Thanks to 1911 Turner for informing me that this rod tightens in L hand thread. I would have doing the exact opposite. The cylinder now opens without a hitch. Again, thank all of you and I will definitely become a frequent visitor to The Highroad!

 

[1911Tuner]

this rod tightens in L hand thread. I would have doing the exact opposite.

Just a few turns in the wrong direction would have let you know it was wrong. The rod would have come out under spring tension.

These things are usually simple.

Welcome to The High Road. Happy to have ya!

 

[Jim K]

The fact is that we are so used to "righty tighty, lefty loosy that we tend not to even think of left hand threads. S&W made that change specifically to prevent the extractor rod from loosening up, but it doesn't seem to have totally solved the problem.

(There are some other instances of left hand gun threads. One is the hammer screw in a Colt Model 1878 double action; some of those guns have been ruined by the "get a bigger screwdriver" approach. Another is the barrel threads in a Norwegian Krag; I have seen a receiver twisted like a pretzel when the gunsmith tried to muscle the receiver in the wrong direction. And the Winchester Model 12 carrier screw is a third LH thread screw.)

Jim

 

[Old Fuff]

It should be pointed out that K-frame revolvers made prior to early 1961 had extractor rods with RIGHT hand threads. If one has an older revolver be to check first, unscrew later.