CZ 75B firing pin safety

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Flounda

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What is meant by "firing pin safety"? Is there any protection against accidental discharge if a gun such as the CZ75 were to be struck or dropped on the hammer?
 
That's exactly what it is.
Unless the trigger is pulled to the rear, the firing pin is 'blocked' from moving forward.
That's "part" of the long trigger pull on the "B". (FP Block)
 
You can see the CZ firing pin block (item 58) on PDF page 17 here.
http://www.cz-usa.com/assets/files/cz75_en.pdf

Only when the trigger is pulled (5) does the trigger bar (7) move up the firing pin block (58), and then would allow the firing pin (54) to move forward after being struck by the hammer.

You can see an animated model of a Beretta 92 showing the vertical moving firing pin block get out of the way of the firing pin here. It is in the slide and is black in this animation.
http://www.genitron.com/Basics/Beretta92/New-Beretta-92.html
 
Wow! Thanks for the cool video. I guess the CZ's operation is pretty much the same except for the lack of a decocker on the std. SA/DA? Is there a 1/2 cock position on the CZ? I was playing with one at a gun dealer yesterday and did not notice.
 
Yes the standard CZ 75b has three position 1.hammer fully down 2.hammer half-cocked 3.hammer-fully cocked.
 
On a decocker CZ75 using the decocker lowers the hammer to that half cock notch (which isn't exactly halfway).

Plus, it is a slick little decocker. It doesn't slam the hammer home like on the Beretta. When you press the decocker on the CZ, the hammer comes down in two moves. The hammer moves part way down with the decocker held down. Then when you release the decocker the hammer moves the rest of the way forward onto the half cock notch.

You can decock fast with a quick and audible click-click, or you can decock slowly with a less audible click . . . click. Either way is quieter and less disconcerting compared to guns that decock their hammers at full speed.
 
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Ok, since you brought up the decocker... If I understand correctly, you lose the functionality of the safety when fully cocked in favor of the decock feature? Is there an advantage to carrying in the half cock position? You'd still have the DA trigger pull on the first shot? If it isn't already obvious, I'm new to autos. My only other handgun is a 22/22mag H&R that I've had for 35+ years. It's time to get in the game, and I'm pretty well sold on the CZ.
 
When I carried my CZ-75B, I always carried it at the half cock position. Two reasons: 1) Easier to hand decock it to that position instead of all the way down. 2) You don't have the full DA trigger pull, it's actually significantly less.
 
Ok, since you brought up the decocker... If I understand correctly, you lose the functionality of the safety when fully cocked in favor of the decock feature?
Click to expand...
The decocking lever is instead of the manual safety. Your first shot will be double action, all subsequent shots (after the recoiling slide has cocked the hammer) single action. When you wish to stop shooting, decock the hammer to start the process again. "Cocked and locked" carry is not possible. If you're familiar with SIG pistols, it works just like them, only the decocking lever is in a different place.

YMMV, but I like the decocking (suffix "D") system better. It greatly reduces the reach to and stroke of the DA trigger, by starting the hammer from approximately a "one third cock" position. And I find the standard safety lever(s) a little too far forward and close to the frame for my thumb(s) to reach.
 
Thanks to all for the info. I ordered a 75BD last night. Any suggestions on break in ammo? Not necessarily the cheapest available, but I don't want to waste $ using high quality stuff if there's a good value to be had. Everything I've read says this gun is not finicky about ammo.
I'm fortunate enough to be able to shoot in my backyard so lots of rounds!
 
Blazer (aluminum case) and Sellier & Bellot (both 115 gr.) are both quite good with my CZs (I've had a bunch), and reasonably priced.

The CZ was designed around Sellier & Bellot's 124 gr. full metal jacket round.
 
I haven't tried the aluminum cased Blazer, but my little CZ PCR has eaten any and all cheap brass ammo I've tried. It's even eaten lead round nose handloads flawlessly. The only downside was cleaning that lead out of the barrel.

I am a fan of the S&B FMJ 115 grn and it is cheap. $11.49/50 at Midway USA.

Another thing I like about S&B is it comes in those small boxes with the thin little plastic ammo divider instead of in a styrofoam ammo divider. You can put more S&B into an ammo can. :cool:
 
On the aluminum cased blazer ammo I have had extraction problems in a couple of my czs. I think the case rim is slightly different on it.
 
Federal Eagle 115 FMJ is affordable, burns clean and has plenty of power to break in a new gun. My new 75B seems to like it.
 
If you've had problems with extraction, and you haven't already done so, upgrade the extractor spring with a Wolff extra-strength extractor spring.

(If you gun is relatively new, it probably already has that spring from CZ.)
 
When you press the decocker on the CZ, the hammer comes down in two moves. The hammer moves part way down with the decocker held down. Then when you release the decocker the hammer moves the rest of the way forward onto the half cock notch.
Click to expand...
Why not go all the way down like the old S&W Autos? The half cock position seems like a clothing snag waiting to happen.
 
Using the decocker won't let the hammer go down to half cock. You can go down fully if you decock the old fashion way by lowering the hammer manually while pulling the trigger.

Of course, a half cock notch on a CZ is more like a 1/4 cock notch. You can see an example of a decocker CZ on half cock here. http://oleson-info.com/Gallery/albums/cz75bd_police/pic_045_Large.sized.jpg

The hammer doesn't stick out nearly as far as a true half cock like on an old SA revolver.
 
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Not to muddy the waters or highjack the thread, but on the non-decocker models, if you manually lower the hammer to full decock, are they drop safe?
 
Any thoughts on "snap caps?" Other than observing feed and ejection is there any advantage to dry firing against a cap vs. empty chamber?
 
I use snap caps on everything if I'm going to do a lot of dry firing whether for break in or for practice.

If only for the occasional dry fire for function check, snap caps aren't really needed (IMO) on centerfire guns.
 
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