Damaged 1911 Casings

[Ktm4]

Hey guys, first post here. I have been tinkering with a Remington Rand 1911 due to the damaged brass it is shooting out when it doesn't jam. It is a pretty distinct double dent at the lip of the casing, I'm sure one of you can point out what is causing it and how to go about fixing the issue.

Thanks in advance!

 

[The Bushmaster]

Looks like it is not completely extracting the case and the slide is ramming it against the ejector port as the slide is coming back. Check for a weak, worn or damaged extractor. Would also check the ejector.

 

[Goody3086]

My study showed that to be a weak extractor, releasing the shell too early. Is it always the last one in the mag? One of my Springfields was doing it. In reading it was suggested that on all but the last round the next round will help push the empty out the top when leaving the magazine. With no case to help the case will just lay there and get shoved back forward following the slide. This is where the two dents stem from, the feed lips at the front of the magazine.

 

[Ktm4]

Will the angle of the ejector need to be modified by chance? And it is happening throughout the whole mag, no specific order. If I adjust the extractor to pass the "Shake test" it should technically be good to go, correct?

 

[Jim K]

I would suspect the ejector, not the extractor, but some tinkering is always necessary.

Hi, Goody,

Ejection should never be dependent on the next round in the magazine. The extractor is supposed to grip the extracted case until it reaches the ejector and is kicked out. If that doesn't happen the fault is in the extractor, not the empty magazine.

Jim

 

[1911Tuner]

The extractor is dropping the case...probably because it "clocks" or rotates during the feed.

It always happens on the last round because there's nothing in the magazine to support it.

The case gets stuffed partway back into the magazine as seen in the picture, causing the slide to fail to lock open. The slide runs forward and tries to stuff the empty case back into the chamber.

The case...standing there at an odd angle...gets crushed between the slide and the barrel hood...not the magazine lips.

More tension may help, but what is needed is a firing pin stop that's wide enough to bear against the slot in the extractor to keep it squared up.

This is what's happening.

 

[Ktm4]

Thanks for the input guys, I'll definitely tighten up the firing pin stop and maybe tune the ejector if the problem persist after that.

Safe shootin'!

 

[Ktm4]

Hey guys, so I fitted the firing pin stop so the extractor cannot rotate at all and the problem still persists.

I am unsure as to what the next step in troubleshooting this should be.

Here is a quick picture of the ejector so you guys may get an idea of the current angle.

 

[Ktm4]

And another view.

 

[1911Tuner]

It's not the ejector.

 

[BBBBill]

That's a Foster/Caspian frame. Same gun? Home built by you? The ejector nose looks bent/peened. Possibly from getting jammed up with the brass. Does the ejector fill the slide slot or is there space around it? What other modifications/additions have been made to the gun? Recoil spring weight? Shock buff?

 

[fguffey]

I would suggest you tighten your grip when firing and or add more powder, or loosen the spring, but be careful if you decide to jack up the load.

F. Guffey

 

[The Bushmaster]

It's the extractor folks...The extractor...

1911Tuner knows his game...!!

 

[Ktm4]

The gun was from an older parts kit, I am unsure of the mods done, if any. I do not know the weight of the recoil spring.

What else needs to be done to the extractor?

I'm sure it is clear to see but I am unfamiliar with the specifics of 1911's, so cut me some slack!

 

[fguffey]

due to the damaged brass it is shooting out when it doesn't jam.

I'm sure it is clear to see but I am unfamiliar with the specifics of 1911's, so cut me some slack!

I have new in the box 45ACP ammo, after new ammo I use reloads, some builds? It does not matter. I have two builds that like new ammo or reloads that look like new factory ammo.

I do not know if your are reloading or purchasing factory loaded ammo.

When I read your opening questions it appears your pistol jams and or wads up the case.

I thought reloading for my wife was a good ideal, my reloads work for me, problem: When she took her conceal carry test I had to purchase ammo that would compensate for her refusal to lock her wrist. We thought she was going to qualify with a revolver.

F. Guffey

 

[Ktm4]

Sorry, should have given you guys the update! It will cycle and shoot fine now, but about half of the ejected brass has the horrible dents.

 

[BBBBill]

The extractor may well be the cause, but it's hard to tell without more specific knowledge of the gun. A proper recoil spring for a full size 1911 shooting standard velocity/weight ammo is 14-16 pounds. Heavier recoil springs and/or shock buffs may cause short cycling. A bad extractor hook may loose control of the case, leaving it loose in the action to be hit by the barrel and/or slide. Too many unknowns. Close up photos of the extractor hook might help with the diagnosis.

 

[fguffey]

Sorry, should have given you guys the update! It will cycle and shoot fine now, but about half of the ejected brass has the horrible dents.

When I create the horrible dents I have to pull the slide back because the case is holding the slide open.

F. Guffey

 

[Ktm4]

Here is the extractor for you guys.

 

[Ktm4]

Another view.

 

[Ktm4]

Sorry for bombarding the thread with pictures, but hopefully they help!

 

[BBBBill]

To far from the extractor in the first two pics. to tell anything for sure. The hook may be a little boogered. A sharp close up would help. A couple things in the last pic suggest possible contributing factors.
1 - The tip of the extractor is touching the extractor groove bevel. It should not.
2 - The hook to breach face dimension looks to be excessive. Spec on that is .075" + .010", or otherwise stated .075" to .085". They are often found in excess of that. .095" is not uncommon and I've seen it at over .100". The guns will often run like that, but it is not optimum. I set mine as close to minimum as possible and they always run well. At least one of the pro bullseye smiths sets his as low as .068" with no problems. His guns win at Camp Perry and are noted for their reliability. Without getting into welding or silver soldering material into the stop slot and refitting, the next best answer is a new extractor from Wilson or EGW. Both seem to be lots closer to correct dimension than any others I've found. Specifically the Wilson bulletproof model seems to be very consistent. EGW is even offering an extractor with no stop slot so you can cut your own wher you want it.

That is certainly not a definitive answer to your problem, but it is a couple points of reference.

 

[rcmodel]

It seems to me if the gun is opening all the way, the case simply can't stay in that position after hitting the ejector.

So:
Check the ejector for a broken pin leg letting it rotate on the frame.
(If it is, replace the ejector.)

Check that you have a standard #16 pound recoil spring in the gun.
(If you have a stronger spring in the gun, replace it with a standard #16 pound.)

Check for a plastic recoil buffer or Shok-Buff on the recoil spring guide or guide rod.
(If you do, throw it away.)

Are you shooting reloads?

And have you had the problem with more then one brand of factory ammo?

rc

 

[Ktm4]

I'll definitely look into a new extractor and recoil spring. It is tough to tell which spring is in there now as these parts were from a box tucked away, so who knows the original specs..

Thanks guys!

 

[No_Expert]

Use This Guide...

to tune your extractor. Properly adjust extractor clearance and tension.

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