DAO conversion on S&W

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Ascot500

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Which part is usually modified to convert a standard S&W revolver to Double Action Only?

Reason I ask: I want to convert a K-frame that is DAO back to DA/SA and need to know what parts to buy.

TIA
 
It could be the hammer, it could be the trigger, it could be both.

Most of the conversions I've seen, however, have simply involved grinding the single-action sear lug off the hammer.

The only way to tell for sure is to open the gun up and examine the hammer and trigger.

If you can't tell if they've been altered, open up a second S&W revolver and compare the parts.
 
Depends on exact nature - -

- - of the conversion done.

You really need to do a side-by-side comparison of your DAO conversion with a factory standard piece K-frame, to see how yours was modified.

Most probably, the single action notch was removed from the hammer. You may get off with replacing only that part. It is possible that the rear of the trigger was also altered, in which case, you'll need a trigger as well.

I can't understand the reasoning process of private individuals who convert revolvers to DAO. It is simple enough to simply decide to shoot without thumb-cocking. I've heard of some departments, not trusting their officers NOT to cock the hammer, which had this alteration made to their issue arms.

A revolver altered to DAO typically brings 10 to 30% less than an unmodified piece of the same type.
One, because the expertise of the alterer is usually unknown, even if the DAO mode is acceptable.
Two, because the utility of the revolver is decreased.
Three, because it will cost at least $50 for parts, plus cost of fitting by a qualified 'smith, to set things to rights again.

Best,
Johnny
 
Agencies like LAPD use to grind off the SA notch on the hammer to convert them to DAO. My brother bought a S&W (on consignment to a dealer) from the wife of a retired officer who passed away. Since it as DAO, the price was very reasonable. My brother also knew I could fix it for the price of a hammer. I got a used hammer that I fitted and he was happy.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

To my untrained eye it looks like hammer has not been modified.

Lacking another Smith to compare to, can anyone point me to a parts photo on the web that has enough detail to tell the difference?
 
With the sideplate off, cock the hammer. There should be a small notch on bottom front of the hammer that catches the backside of the trigger (the sear). That small notch rotates upward as the hammer rotates to the rear.

BTW, keep your thumb on the spur and allow the hammer to go forward. See if there's anything to "catch" against the trigger.
 
I recommend that both hammer and trigger be replaced as well as the hammer strut (lifter), trigger return spring and maybe mainspring (hammer spring) if it looks like it was worked on. That sounds like a lot of parts and a lot of money, but the reason I say that is that most people who do a DAO job also do a "trigger job" as well.

If your revolver was worked on by an expert, it is possible that only the hammer was modified, but if it was a "bubba" job I wouldn't bet on what was worked on. It is not only better to have all the parts you might need before beginning work but also better to have new parts so they can wear in together.

Jim
 
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