Defarbing Question

Status
Not open for further replies.
F

Foto Joe

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2010
Messages
1,378
Location
Cody, WY
It's been said on this forum but I can't remember by who, "A Dremel Tool gives you the ability to cause untold amounts of damage to perfectly good guns".

I'm about to take the plunge and buy my first Dremel. The main reason is for polishing a '51 fake Navy in preparation for browning it. But given the above statement, could this tool be used by somebody who knows what they're doing to de-farb as well? Or does the process involve filling with weld first then grinding and polishing?

Just a thought, as I'm sure I'll discover the true meaning of that observation all on my own. Hopefully later rather than sooner.
 
First we master hand tools. Then we get to play with power tools. ;)

With the wrong file you can go from hero to zero in under 60 seconds. Just imagine how fast you can get there with a tool that spins at several thousand rpm.:what:
 
I have a Dremel. I have done untold amounts of damage. However, on a few, I have taken basket cases and made them reliable shooters (but there's a STEEP learning curve). My curve started shallow then tapered off. :)
 
Foto Joe said:
The main reason is for polishing
Click to expand...

Dremel tools can be great for polishing. There are accessory felt tips that can be used with fine jeweler's rouge to create a mirror polish finish without any of the pain or blisters.
Or use it with a product like Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish paste which many folks use to polish stainless steel.
Using a flex shaft attachment helps to provide better control & finished results.

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-5101-Aluminum-Polish-Paste/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-POLISHER-POLISH-MOTHERS-Aluminum/dp/B0053H9TGG

http://www.detailing.com/store/mothers-mag-and-aluminum-polish-5oz.html
 
Last edited:
Polishing falt surfaces should be done with other flat surfaces. Round polishing bobs often leaves marks and dips on the pieces polished that show up after the finish is applied. Even round surfaces are best polished with flat surfaced polishers.

And there is a big difference between the 8" felt pad on a bench grinder and the 5/8 felt bob on a Dremel.
 
Yeah I'm going to have to go with the "I wouldn't do that if I were you" group. One thing not mentioned, with motorized polishing, folks tend to round the edges on stuff, and you mentioned you have a '51 Navy, so octagonal barrel..., you want the edges of the octagon crisp. Wrapping abrasive cloth around a flat piece of wood or a file will allow you to keep those crisp edges. I know master builders of BP rifles, and the only power tool they use is a drill press for very specific holes in a limited number of applications.

LD
 
Go to Wall Mart and get different grades of (metal) sand paper. Depending on what you are trying to do. Course will remove markings, 600-800-and 1000 grit will do your finish work. I bought a S&W SS revolver that was used and had some carry marks. The 1000 was a good final prep for Mothers Mag Polish which gave a high gloss finish that was better than a factory nickel.

Stay away from the dremel and do it by hand. A much better finished product. Not a damaged gun, and you have fun doing it.
 
The responses above are pretty much what I expected.

I'm using my "Fake" Navy for a reason of course although it is arguably my favorite shooter. I really don't think it needs all that much polishing to start with. I stripped the bluing this last spring while boondocking down in southern Utah. I hit it with some crocus cloth and Ballistol after it was stripped and was pretty pleased with the results. It's now had about 500 rounds through it since and is starting to take on some "character". The browning plan is simply to learn something new.

Regarding the Dremel, ya'll do realize that it goes against the male code of conduct to recommend that another man NOT purchase a tool of any sort right? I say this of course while drinking coffee out in my wood shop surrounded by machines with names like Craftsman and DeWalt.:)
 
Three steps I've used with good success;
1) Flat file (not too coarse)
2) Several grits of sandpaper (180-320)
3) Finish with a 3M dics on a pneumatic mold grinder....not much pressure used!!
******* For all steps, good lighting ios essential !!!!********
 
Seeing Is Believing!

Zenkoji did the final polishing on 2 CVA revolver kits using a Dremel tool and then posted short videos about them. They're gleaming all over! He only polished the brass section of the 1851 with the Dremel which is a lot softer than steel, and the hammer. The results speak volumes. His quote from the 1st video was, "...And that damn Dremel tool worked just like magic."
He also polished the entire 1860 except for the cylinder with the Dremel and said, "But man that looks pretty freaking sweet." And he was only using Brasso on the steel. He said that he was going to go back and redo the 1851 barrel with a better polish for steel. :)

Zenkoji said:
Redid the brass! Holy COW!

Well, I tackled the brass tonight, and MY GOODNESS what a difference! I achieved the results I was looking for - those Dremel-type tools are awesome!

It certainly takes some trial and error, and a bit of skill to apply just the right amount of pressure, but the results certainly speak for themselves. I even made my own special sanding discs to provide a softer touch to I wouldn't bite into the metal too deeply without a generous amount of pressure. It involved cutting my own discs using one of the larger cutting discs as a template, then cutting a thin cardboard disc with the same diameter. I then used one of the small sanding discs that came with the kit I purchased as a washer to ensure the bit wouldn't dig into the cardboard (which I discovered through trial and error). This gave more stability than just the sanding discs I cut, but wasn't so stiff that every little error on my part would carve too much material.

At any rate, check out the video I made. The pics just weren't doing it justice

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfAjTIOv660&feature=player_profilepage
Click to expand...


Zenkoji said:
The 1860 looks gorgeous!!

Well, today I spent some time (some??) working on the 1860 Army... I think she looks pretty damn sweet, but I welcome comments!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qriW9PGiek&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Click to expand...

The entire thread can be read here:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=450453&highlight=mother
 
Last edited:
Well Joe,

The jury has rendered it's verdict. The Dremel Tool is guilty of damaging weapons in the hands of many. I have to agree here as well. You'll recall that I was in the business for 40+, and never used this tool to polish a thing. All polishing was done with hand held tools and such that gave far better control of the use of abrasives.

If you're serious about preping the weapon for browning, stick with the use of fine wet and dry paper, and on the flats, as the others stated, use the "drawfile" method of wrapping the paper around a flat surface tool. My favorite for this porpose was always a paint stir stick. You can wrap you chosen abrasive paper around it and either hold it in place as you work, or glue it to the wood. Either way, you're not going to have a file punch though the paper using the stick. That can gouge up your surface. Always go at these things slow. Did I mention slow? Yeah, go easy and take your time.

I look forward to your progress with this project.

Wade
 
Regarding the Dremel, ya'll do realize that it goes against the male code of conduct to recommend that another man NOT purchase a tool of any sort right?
Click to expand...
Nobody said not to purchase it. We just said don't USE it on your gun.
 
I won't comment on dremmel thing other than to say that it's nice to see so many folks who understand their limitations.

On the subject of defarbing, welding would not be my first choice for filling the warnings. Instead, I would try pushing the displaced metal back into place as much as possible by rubbing a 1/2" x 12" extension bar over it repeatedly from all directions.

Here is a very good thread on the subject authored by StrawHat (my apologies for initially crediting someone else).

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=363628&highlight=burnishing
 
Last edited:
When you get the dremel, try it out on some safe metal objects to get an idea what it is capable of. You can get items of various metals at a thrift store and see what effect you can achieve with it. For polishing of broad flat surfaces, I have to agree with the wet sanding advocates. There are various areas that a dremel can fit in, but you have to practice in order to use it judiciously to best effect.
 
Slow and steady wins the race (when power polishing).

Learn on scrap. Practice on scrap and low-value stuff.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top