Depriming Geco 9mm

[peeplwtchr]

Hi All-

I am just starting reloading, and I have lots of my old range brass. It turns out most of it appears to have crimped primers, including 2-3k Geco cases. I am using a Lee Sizing/decapping die, and every time I try to decap any of it, the pin slides up through the Collet, like it should if the pin has too much resistance. I checked a couple other Geco threads, but I did not see a solution posted.

Anyone know of a solution? Universal decapping die? I'm not sure I want to mess with the flasholes.

Thanks

 

[Blue68f100]

Tighten the collet nut some more so it does not slip.

 

[LiveLife]

When my depriming pin slides up, I always check to see if the case is Berdan primed (two flash holes instead of one for Boxer primed).

If it is Berdan primed, case gets tossed for recycling and if it is Boxer primed, I check to see if primer pocket has military crimp and set it aside if it is (I deprime crimped brass separately and swage the primer pocket crimp with C-H tool).

If the case is Boxer primed commercial brass (some are steel or brass plated steel so check with magnet), tighten the depriming pin down and resume resizing/depriming of brass.

 

[sparkyv]

It looks like the GECO brass accepts boxer primers: https://www.reloadingsolutions.com/products/brass/geco/

That collet nut needs ALOT of torque to seat the decapping stem; be sure to use a backup wrench.

 

[peeplwtchr]

It looks like the GECO brass accepts boxer primers: https://www.reloadingsolutions.com/products/brass/geco/

That collet nut needs ALOT of torque to seat the decapping stem; be sure to use a backup wrench.

This fixed it! I was initially afraid to crank it that hard, I figured I'd strip it. But I trusted you, and cranked it hard.

I just deprimed my first 10 cases! No idea why, but it's fun

I also did all the brands of cases I have. I am so happy, I was worried I'd have to buy brass, when I have thousands of range brass

Thanks to all of you, made my day!

 

[edwardware]

Now that you've slid the pin in the collet, you'll need to remake the coarse finish on the pin (around, not along the pin).

Then install and tighten the living snot out of the collet. The pin, collet, and die are all hardened; it needs to be tighter than you could possibly torque a mild bolt that size without twisting it clean off. Really, three uga-duggas tight.

You'll know you got it when it doesn't slide.

 

[sparkyv]

Awesome! Glad we could help.

I also find it fun and therapeutic. Welcome to the addiction hobby.

 

[Average Joe]

I reload GECO brass all the time, never did I encounter one that was crimped.

 

[peeplwtchr]

10k bullets, primers and 8lb of Unique on the way. Frankford rotary wet tumbler, steel media, cartidge gauge, hornady calipers, primer pocket cleaning tool, Inlinefabrication riser, extra decapping pins, 2 loading manuals, coming too. I'm not even gonna add it up. Now a good digital scale (I got the RCBS beam with the kit, it sucks), a Swage tool and I think I'm good.

EDIT: Until the progressive.

 

[peeplwtchr]

I reload GECO brass all the time, never did I encounter one that was crimped.

Really? Maybe it's my eyes, they suck.

 

[BiknSwans]

10k bullets, primers and 8lb of Unique on the way. Frankford rotary wet tumbler, steel media, cartidge gauge, hornady calipers, primer pocket cleaning tool, Inlinefabrication riser, extra decapping pins, 2 loading manuals, coming too. I'm not even gonna add it up. Now a good digital scale (I got the RCBS beam with the kit, it sucks), a Swage tool and I think I'm good.

EDIT: Until the progressive.

If you are going to use a swage tool, you will want a primer pocket Go-NoGo gauge. Why swage if the pocket is already swaged or reamed out?

 

[lordpaxman]

Welcome to your new addiction.
I’ve reloaded some Geco but it wasn’t crimped, that isn’t to say yours might be. It could be you just didn’t have your nuts tightened enough ?!? Usually, but not always, the Nato rounds have crimped primers and you’ll see the Nato symbol in the headstamp or just “9x19” instead of 9mm. Before your swage everything you might not have to, post a few pics and perhaps we can tell. I’ve been fooled before by what looks like a crimp ring around the primer pocket but it wasn’t crimped. The other test is just try priming a few and see how it goes. Good luck!

 

[sparkyv]

Yes, maybe addiction is the right word. Looks like you've got it bad, peeplwtchr. Of course I mean it in a good way after all, we are shameless enablers here on THR.

10k bullets, primers and 8lb of Unique on the way. Frankford rotary wet tumbler, steel media, cartidge gauge, hornady calipers, primer pocket cleaning tool, Inlinefabrication riser, extra decapping pins, 2 loading manuals, coming too. I'm not even gonna add it up. Now a good digital scale (I got the RCBS beam with the kit, it sucks), a Swage tool and I think I'm good.

EDIT: Until the progressive.

 

[Random 8]

Interesting, never seen GECO commercial marked brass with a crimp. Lots of strange things out there though. I think someone above mentioned roughing the surface of the decapping spindle. My method for this is to clamp down on it with a vice grip. You want enough to mar the surface, but not deep gouges.

 

[peeplwtchr]

Now that you've slid the pin in the collet, you'll need to remake the coarse finish on the pin (around, not along the pin).

Then install and tighten the living snot out of the collet. The pin, collet, and die are all hardened; it needs to be tighter than you could possibly torque a mild bolt that size without twisting it clean off. Really, three uga-duggas tight.

You'll know you got it when it doesn't slide.

I see why I need to make the top of the pin coarse now. After 30 decaps, the pin started to slip little by little, until it was fully entended back up. Good info, thanks!

 

[mdi]

Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading.
Your Lee die is working correctly, but needs a little tweeking. After making sure none of your brass is Bredan primed, and there is nothing in the case that doesn't belong, take apart the die. Using brake clean (or similar aggressive solvent) clean the stem and collet, get all oil off. Reassemble and tighten down (not gorilla tight, but normal two wrench tight). No need to knurl or file the stem, clean metal to metal contact is good enough...

FWIW I have been using Lee sizing/decapping dies for tens of thousands of rounds and never needed to do anything to the stem other than getting all the oil/dirt/grease. etc, off. Military rifle brass with annular crimps and stake crimps no problem. Never any handgun brass problems even with very old military with "corroded" primers (galvanic corrosion), Korean War 45 ACP brass...

 

[Telum Pisces]

A lot of the brass I got recently was GECO in 9mm. Non of it was crimped. Some primers are just harder to come out compared to others. I have to get my Lee universal decapping die really tight!!! I have to tighten it passed what I think I should sometimes. But it's hardened steel and needs to be dang tight to work.

 

[Toprudder]

The problem with the Geco cases may not be crimped primers, it may be that the flash hole is small enough to bind on the decapping pin.

 

[peeplwtchr]

Using brake clean (or similar aggressive solvent) clean the stem and collet, get all oil off. Reassemble and tighten down (not gorilla tight, but normal two wrench tight). No need to knurl or file the stem, clean metal to metal contact is good enough...
..

This and scoring the pin worked well I think. I used Brakeclean, used a very fine file a couple of perpendicular passes, and got through 50 deprimes with no pin movement. Thanks everybody!

THR f****n rocks.

 

[peeplwtchr]

One off topic comment I'd like to make is that I have so many Geco cases because out of 10 brands that I tested in ppq, tp9sf, vp9 and extar ep9, this was overall the most accurate of lower priced 9mm. Therefore I bought many cases from gunbroker for .16 cpr. I am glad to see that I can reload it.

 

[markr6754]

This fixed it! I was initially afraid to crank it that hard, I figured I'd strip it. But I trusted you, and cranked it hard.!

I’m glad that it worked for you. It worked for me a couple of times as well. I stripped my Lee Universal Decapping die. Now the pin is perpetually cocked to one side.

I ran into this over and over and over with certain brands of brass. I gave up and bought a Frankford Arsenal Hand Depriming tool. Works with everything, pistol and rifle. Especially worthwhile if depriming thousands of pieces of brass.