Determining Proper Gun Fit

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TrapperReady

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We often talk about making sure that a shotgun fits properly… but what exactly does that mean? For those of us who don’t walk around with a Purdey’s employee and a try-gun in tow, how do we find out if a particular gun fits?

The following is a description of what I do, and particular things that I look for. Please note that I’m not trying to find a perfectly fitted gun (which would be like finding a needle in a haystack), but rather to weed out anything that’s not going to work right. Also, this method tends to work best for sporting and field guns… purpose-built trap guns are a little different, as are “defensive” guns which are more likely to be sighted and often sport a shorter LOP.

I should also point out that a pre-requisite for this is that you are capable of performing a proper and reproducible gun mount. Without a proper gun mount, the rest of it becomes rather meaningless.

Directions:

1) Check to make sure the gun is unloaded. Double check.

2) Pick a golf-ball sized (or smaller) spot on a wall at least 20’ away.

3) While looking intently at the spot, mount the gun (using your best form) several times. Just raise it up until the front bead is on the point you picked. DO NOT lower your head down onto the stock, just keep it upright as you raise the gun to your cheek. Make note if the stock seems noticeably too long or too short.

4) Without changing your position, close your eyes and execute another gun mount, trying to aim at the point you used above.

5) Open your eyes, but DO NOT MOVE THE GUN OR YOUR HEAD.

6) Carefully inspect where the bead is. Is it on target? Is it close? How much rib (or barrel) are you seeing? If there is a mid-bead, is it stacked up like a figure-eight below the front bead? Is it off to one side or the other? If there is no mid-bead, does the rib or barrel seem angled… even just a little bit?

7) Does the gun seem comfortable? Is there anything that doesn’t seem right? Compare the fit against your own “mental database”* of other guns you’ve tried. How does it seem?

8) Swing the gun through a full range of motion. Pretend you are tracking a target. Do this right to left, left to right, high, low, etc... Now, when you are doing this, particularly in a gun shop, pay careful attention to muzzle discipline and other people.

9) Work the action a few times, as well as operate the other controls. This is particularly important for pumps. For instance, I find that a Browning BPS fits me OK, but my arms seem a bit short for reaching the forearm. Model 12s and 870s are better for me in that regard.

10) Repeat steps 4 through 9 until you’ve made a decision about a particular gun. I almost never will look at just one gun at a time. I always want something else to compare it against, as I will find myself accommodating a particular gun’s fit after a number of times mounting it.


With a properly fitting gun, here’s what I’m looking for:

1) The length of pull allows me to cleanly mount the gun, pushing it slightly away from me, and then pulling it toward me as I raise it to my cheek.

2) I should be looking perfectly straight down the barrel, clearly seeing the front bead, and just a little bit of the rib (or top of the barrel). If there is a mid-bead, I want it stacked just below the front bead (like a Figure-8).

3) When pointed at the target, the gun should not be canted.

4) The recoil pad should be making full contact in the “shoulder pocket”. That contact should be even along it’s length, so that the toe isn’t digging in or pushed away.

5) I shouldn’t have to move my head at all to get the “sight picture” I want.

* I think it is invaluable to try as many guns as you can as often as you can. If you can shoot them, even better. However, even if you just spend a few minutes using the above procedure on a handful of guns on the used racks, you’ll start to get an idea of what fits and what doesn’t.

One final comment is that guns are built for an "average" person. Since almost no one is exactly "average", the fit of production guns is typically an approximation. For people who are close to average, minor tweaking may be needed. For people who are further from average (6'5" with a wingspan like a jumbo-jet), more extensive tweaking may be needed. In fact, with enough work, you could probably get any gun to fit any person... eventually. It's just easier (and cheaper) to get close from the beginning.
 
A couple of comments, if I may:

:) If someone wants to fit your gun by having you put the butt in the crook of your arm and see where your finger hits the trigger, politely get out of there. The only thing that tells you is that you can probably reach the trigger, but on a pistol grip shotgun, it doesn't tell you that very well. It doesn't hurt to do it, but if someone stops there and says, "It fits!", go find another "expert.":p

There are several reasons why this doesn't work.

1. Your upper and lower arms may have different lengths. I am certified in strength training for sports; the proportions of upper and lower arms and legs to torso, overall height, etc. are different in every individual and must be treated as such. The length of your forearm with respect to the buttstock is one measurement out of a whole bunch that matter.

2. The length of your neck, size of your face, size of your chest, etc will all affect gun fit at least as much as the length of your arms.

3. Every gun design has a different trigger span: the distance your finger has to stretch to pull the trigger. Look at these two common shotguns and note the huge difference between the distance from your wrist to the trigger on each.

013056m.jpg

lgsil_870wingmaster.jpg



:) The foreend matters. If you have shorter arms even by a small amount, you will have to stretch your forward arm pretty straight on an Ithaca 37, whereas you can keep it bent at 90 degress on a Wingmaster, or choke up even more on a Nova or a break-action like a Citori or BT-99.

The bend in your forearm, and the position of your forward hand, will change the way the gun handles when it's moving, even if it fits otherwise.

...just two lessons from my University of Hard Knocks...

And of course, regarding everything that Trapper said, I'll say: read it twice, then read it again, then do it!:D
 
AB - Comments and suggestions are always welcome! Good point about the "old gun shop" method of fitting. That falls in the same category as using a dime to determine the amount of choke in a barrel.
 
Great thread, TR. Thanks. A coupla minor points....

Among the floating threads up top here is Patterning 101. Using a patterning board to tweak fit is one of the best ways to get fitted. From low gun, mount and fire as if the aiming point is a bird or clay going straight away. Where the pattern strikes can tell you what about the fit needs to be changed.

Another way to determine fit is to lock a trap down to launch only straightaways. Stand directly behind it (As if you're on Post 3 on a trap range) and shoot the birds. Read your breaks, move the stock in the direction the big piece goes off to when you do not powder it.

The older I get, the better I shoot and the more finicky I get about fit. There's a connection....
 
Dave - Thanks for the comments. I geared this towards the person who might be looking through a bunch of offerings at "Ye Olde Gunne Shoppe". If you've already got a gun, then it can be a starting point to seeing how well it fits.

Like you said, patterning is a great way to find out exactly what's happening and give you feedback on how to tweak the fit.

With regards to proper fit and its effects, I find it much the same as when I was racing bicycles. Riding for fun, anything that was kinda-sorta close was fine. Riding a couple hundred miles a week and racing on the weekends made me positively anal about every aspect of fit. Things that you didn't notice at first would become major issues as time went on.
 
So, on the two shotguns pictured above...what are the listed LOP's? Seems to me that most every shotgun has about the same LOP listed but there's obviously a lot of difference. Well, that or they're scaled slightly different size in the picture.

Basic question...so what do you do on a regular production gun (870 let's say) to compensate??? Butt pad? Or do you just put it back on the rack and grab something else??
 
Agreed, TR. When one shoots a fitted shotgun, it eliminates wasted motion and lowers fatigue. For competition, fitting maxes scores so the limiting factor is us. And we can work on us.

Red, LOP isn't the most crucial issue. We adjust the LOP by where we grasp the forend with our forward hands. Drop, IMO, is harder to adapt to when it's off a bit.
 
I had an Italian 20 gauge SxS when I was a kid. It had virtually no drop at the comb. Top of the stock was very sharp. Couldn't hit diddly with it.
 
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