Differences in grain for same bullet??

[Victor1Echo]

Okay I did my first .223 reloads. A little harder than I anticipated--After about 50 cases, I broke the primer reamer inside of a case; thus, lodging the case in the die. Anyway, my question has to do with loads. I am using Nosler 55 grn bullets (orange tip) and H335 powder. According to Noslers reloading guide, 25 grains of 335 was the most accurate. There was also a load for 24 grains, so I went with 24 thinking if I made a small error it would still be within a correct load. Also, with this powder and case size--a double charge resulted in an overflow, making it obvious if I made a mistake--I did- twice. When I checked the Hodgson magizine the have a 55 grain bullet with H335 at 23 grains. Being new to reloading, it scares me to think of charging too much powder and hurting myself--So what I want to know is--Are there always going to be small differences from manufacture to manufacture of amounts of the same powder used? For example, Nisler says use 25 grains of powder, while Hodgson says 23 grains?

Thanks

Forgot to mention the feeling of joy as I held my first reload in my hand. The brass sparkled as the angels sang!

 

[qajaq59]

Victor, those "Most accurate loads" are in their rifle barrel, so they may not be anywhere near what your rifle barrel needs. And it is better to begin at the starter load, increasing a bit at a time until you reach the most accurate load for your rifle. And in my experience you are likely to reach it long before you get to the MAX. Only once in over 40 years has a max ever been my best load.
Have fun and be safe.

 

[NCsmitty]

You will find a difference in reloading manuals due to testing procedures and components along with test chamberings used.
The more manuals that you have, the better. Cross referencing data is the smart way to go. Old manuals tend to show higher charges than current ones because of liability questions and better methods of testing.
www.hodgdon.com shows 23gr as the start load, and 25.3 as the maximum for H335 and 55gr bullet. I would not hesitate to fire the 24gr load that you loaded, but would examine the cases after firing to see if the case has flattened primers or other indications of high pressure. It's not too late to load some rounds at the 23gr level to shoot first for inspection and groups. If everything looks good then shoot the 24gr and check.
What rifle are you using?
Are you using standard or magnum primers?



NCsmitty

 

[JimKirk]

I broke the primer reamer inside of a case; thus, lodging the case in the die.

Do you mind explaining that please?
You should be looking for data that uses "your" bullet and "your" powder. It does not hurt to look at what type gun and barrel length the data is developed in. Just say you have a .223(5.56 chamber) Ar-15 16" barrel and the data you find is developed in a 26" pressure barrel with a tight chamber, then you would have to understand that the data will not give you the same results in your gun. Your chamber being somewhat larger would take a lager charge of powder and be safe, BUT because of the gas system of the AR you would beat your gun to death with such a load.
So to answer your question YES there will always be differences between listed powder data. If everybody used the same gun, with the same chamber, with the same lot of powder , with the same exact barrel, with the same lot of primer, with the same 50* sunny day and at the same altitude.......Then the data would be the same for all guns.....BUT THEY DON"T!

Jimmy K

 

[delta53]

double check

all loads because a load with not enough powder will probaly hurt you faster than a double charge, it is know as a Squib. short charging will result in the bullet not clearing the barrel and you next round will cause the barrel to explode or bulge. I though the same when i started .Check and double check all powder charges and if when you shoot something does not sound right check the barrel for obstuctions.

 

[Victor1Echo]

Jim Kirk,

While reaming a case to expand the neck (.223) and knock the primer out, a case got stuck in the die. The primer reamer broke inside of a case. it is the part that is meant to break.

Also, I will be shooting these through a colt sporter 20 inch, I cannot remember the twist rate.

 

[rcmodel]

Seems to be a problem with terms.

If you were sizing & depriming and something broke off inside the case, it had to the either the primer punch or pin, or the expander button.

There is no reaming involved, unless you were doing something wrong and using a neck reamer to ream the necks out by cutting brass from the inside of the necks..

rc

 

[JimKirk]

Victor
There are no parts that are meant to break! If something breaks you're doing something wrong or it is a faulty part.
I tend to believe that rcmodel has problem figured out ...term problem.
I'm going out on a limb and guess that you had the primer punch set to deep and broke the stem, but that would not have gotten the case stuck in the die, it would mean that the expander and punch pin would be in the case.
Like rc said there is no reaming that takes place in a normal sizing die, so I'm lost.
I, along with lots of others,would like to help you solve your problem. So help us to help you.

Jimmy K

 

[Victor1Echo]

Reaming? I think I meant Decapping.
What broke was the decapping pin and the assembly that it is attached to (the part that has .223 etched in it). And by meant to break, what I was getting at was that this part appears to be designed to break under too much pressure. Also, it looks like you can just screw another one on there. I will learn how to post a picture, then post a picture of the broken piece.