Dillon 550B & Lee Dies

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mugsie

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Has anyone used Lee dies (3 die set for pistol) on a Dillon 550B? Lee dies are much cheaper than the Dillon, but am I kidding myself? If I do use the dies since they include a powder through expander die, is this useless and I still need to purchase the Dillon powder die since I'm using their powder measure? Gimme some ideas. Thanks....
 
The lee expander die is not used. You will need a dillon powder die and caliber conversion kit. I would also highly suggest buying a crimp-only die for the 4th station. Take the o-ring out of the lee lock rings and install them upside down (o-ring groove on top); they should work fine for lock rings, but access will be tight on the toolhead. The new dillon 1" lock rings are a nice upgrade IMO.
 
I use a lot of Lee dies on my 550's. The downside is they don't have the big funnel mouth of the Dillon dies, case alignment going into the die is a lot more critical. The biggest benefit is they don't have the big funnel mouth of the Dillon dies.
 
I have used RCBS dies in my Dillon RL450 in the past and they worked but I wasted a lot of time making sure the cases were perfectly aligned with the sizing die.
I finally bought a set of Dillon dies and found they worked much better due to the more generous radius at the entrance of the dies.
My production rate increased once I started using the Dillon dies.
Also, the Dillon dies are more ruggedly constructed than many dies intended for single stage use.

My advice is to pay the extra few dollars for the Dillon dies. You will be glad you did.
 
Do a side by side comparison and you will see what I mean. I have several sets of RCBS dies with bent and broken decapping rods, etc from decapping military brass.
The Dillon dies are far more robust. I have used Dillon dies to decap military brass for over 25 years and have yet to break a single pin, let alone bend a rod.
In comparison RCBS dies, which I still use for some cailbers, are flimsy.
But don't take my word for it, which I suspect you don't.
Compare for yourself.:p
 
I bent a RCBS decapping rod, but it was due to excessive media still in case.
I bent another because of off center flash hole.
I can usually bend them straight.
Replaced several rcbs pins, keep 'em on hand. Slowly been replacing them with more robust dies, like the dillon.
 
I have to agree with Bottom Gun.

I have a Dillon 550B and have been reloading for the past 30 yrs. I have used LEE, RCBS, LYMAN, HORNADY dies through the years. All of them will made do the job, BUT I found that my Dillon dies are more rugged, DON'T rust and produce very accurate ammo.

Flame suits, ON!

Ninja45
 
How can we quantify "more rugged"? Has anybody actually had a Lee die fail? Or not produce a round that will chamber and fire?

I load 4 pistol calibers with Lee dies and they perform flawlessly for a lot less $ than other dies. The Lee Factory Crimp Die does things I couldn't get done with Dillon dies on a SDB, namely, get rid of bulged cases that occurred because the brass varied somewhat in OAL. The Lee post-sizes and that's it. No case gauges, no surprises at the range.

So somebody bent an RCBS decapping pin!!! It's a dollar part, maybe two. Doesn't mean RCBS dies won't do the job.

If the judge of quality of a die set is a bent or broken decapping pin that wouldn't convince me one way or the other. The test is price/performance. Lee dies beat all for that re: chambering and firing pistol rounds.
 
Uh-oh looks like we ruffled some feathers, Ninja45.

I suppose I should clarify that I was referring to the full size Dillon dies used in the 550, 650, etc. I have no experience with the SDB and probably never will. The SBD is too limited for my purposes.

Another nice feature the full size Dillon dies have is the ability to remove stuck cases. That is a very useful feature because sooner or later, just about everyone will stick a case or two. I’ve ruined other brands of dies trying to remove stuck cases. I haven’t had to use that feature yet with the Dillon dies though. Maybe the spray lube works better than the old lube pad did.

I now use the Dillon spray lube and have never had a lube dent with my bottleneck Dillon dies either. The bleed hole works exactly like it should.
In contrast, I tried a set of the RCBS “X” dies for my single stage RCBS press which dented every single case I ran through them no matter how sparingly I tried to apply the lube.
I called RCBS and was told to “wipe the lube off the shoulder before sizing or go back to using a pad”.
That struck me as being somewhat counterproductive so I sold the RCBS X dies instead and bought a set of Dillons to use on my Rock Chucker. I have not had a lube dent since regardless how much lube I slop on the brass. I can actually see the bleed hole blow a small bubble when I cycle the press.
The X dies had a bleed hole too, but it didn’t work like it was supposed to even though I repeatedly checked for blockages. Maybe it wasn’t positioned properly.
 
So somebody bent an RCBS decapping pin!!! It's a dollar part, maybe two. Doesn't mean RCBS dies won't do the job

I did NOT say I bent a decapping pin.
Read closer. The whole rod that goes through, from the top to the bottom.
NOT a dollar part.....
Most likely RCBS would send one in the mail, that's not the point, is it?
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=370760
So, Benedict, have you even seen a dillon (Not the square deal type.) die set up close?
Oh, BTW, post-sizing reduces neck tension, and covers up symptoms of problems in your ammo.
Save the band-aids for the medicine cabinet.
Every brand has it's strong points and weak points.
Do not assume that just because Lee dies are cheaper then they are better, and I won't assume they are inferior because they cost less. Deal?
 
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I've bent and had to replace numerous decapping pins on my Dillon resizing dies. I do like that on the Lee ones, the pin will just slide up and need to be readjusted rather than replaced.

I do plan to replace the Lee bullet seating die, though, as I think my production will go up if I don't have to stop now and then to realign a bullet that has tilted and caught on the edge of the die opening.
 
Thank you for getting us back on track here, FJC. I think the whole point of this discussion is which dies are better for use in Dillon progressive press.
The answer is Dillon dies.

The Dillon dies are designed to allow for slight misalignment of components with generous radii on the mouths of the dies. They are made for use with a progressive loader. Other brands, unless they have changed their configuration, are NOT.
Sure other brands will work in a 550 and sure other brands are less expensive. Will other brands work as well in a Dillon press? NO they will not. They may work every bit as well in a single stage press, but they will NOT work as well in a Dillon. That was Mugsie’s original question.
We have gotten slightly off track here with this “My dies are better than your dies” nonsense.

Some of us are sharing our good and bad experiences with everyone in an effort to help out. There is no reason for anyone to get his panties in a wad over it.

Yes, FJC, your production WILL increase once you stop fiddling with the alignment issues you described. I have been there and done that.

If someone wants to buy an expensive press and then handicap it by using cheap dies, which were not designed to work with that particular press, that is his prerogative.
Will my Les Baer 1911 shoot Wolf ammo or reloads purchased at the local swap meet from Billy Bob’s Custom Ammo & Transmission Repair? Probably. Will I use that ammo? I don’t think so.

Speaking for myself, I don’t mind spending a few extra dollars for quality equipment. I stop to think about how long I plan to use the item and then calculate how much the extra expense really is when I spread it over the length of time I plan to use the item. At that point, the extra cost per year becomes negligible. By the way, that rationale seems to work well when you are explaining the cost of a new firearm to the Mrs.

My time is worth something. If I have to stop production to change a pin or otherwise fiddle with my dies, that annoys me. I would rather spend a few extra dollars if it means faster, easier production or avoiding down time.

Now, having said that, MY DIES ARE BETTER THAN YOUR DIES!!!!

:neener:
 
I am convinced!

OK guys - you've convinced me - Dillon dies hands down. I read from someone here at one time when I was looking to start reloading that I should buy what I was going to end up with in the long run anyway. I did - I purchased a Dillon 550B. I love it. I crank out hundreds of rounds in various calibers. Sometimes when I place the bullet on the case, it's aligned and sometimes it's not - but when I bring the handle down and the ram seats the bullet - everyone ends up perfectly seated and perfectly aligned. I love my setup. I was speaking with people who use Lee and no doubt they're cheap, but are they really that cheap if I'm going to be dissatisfied with them for one reason or another or if I have to go out and purchase Dillon later on? I think not. So, I'll take the advice of one of the senior members when he told me - get what you're going to end up with anyway! I'm going with Dillon, never looking back, and enjoying every minute of the ride! :D thanks for all the input, cause even with all the arguing we do manage to share information. Thanks again....
 
Whoa there Mugsie. Not so fast:) . I've reloaded quite a bit on the 550 using Lee and Hornady dies with no alignment problems of any kind. I believe a lot of folks get into trouble by not having their paper clip thingy properly adjusted on station one. With all due respect to Dillon and my fellow colleagues, Dillon dies are not a requirement on a properly adjusted progressive,
Though I do like the way you can take them apart for cleaning (Dillon's) without changing their adjustment.
Bronson7
 
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