DIY; leather+1/2 hour+ Gorrilla glue= holster

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klover

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I've made crude holsters that work really well with just Gorrilla glue. First I make a stiff paper pattern. Next I cut leather with a narrow, stiff knife. Glue sets up in 4 hours, enough for adding more leather or cutting. Sometimes I glue with a pencil on the sight track, gun inside the holster wrapped in saran wrap. You really need some clamps for gluing and laminating. I keep the rough side out for less debrie in the gun.

I made a pocket holster with cut outs for the cylinder (to keep it thin and flat) in a half hour of labor.

The beauty of this is that you can carry with a design to see if it works for you. If it does, you have the option to refine it with more labor.

Typically, to finish a crude one, I will put in a thread groove (just hammer punch it), drill thread holes, sew it, sand the profile, burnish the edges, and put a good leather finish on for water proofing. I've used screws, and/or aluminum pop rivets to attach snaps for belt loops. Aluminum pop rivets are great for knife sheaths if you pound them flat once you install them.

I would love to try to fit someone with steep curves, just to show how easy it is ;) :p . Sorry, but I'm too broke to buy a camera right now.
 
You must know someone with a camera. I am having a hard time picturing it, especially the "cut outs for the cylinder" . Picks are a must:banghead:
 
Sorry, the dem's are in, it's time to stock up on ... camera must wait.

Orient muzzle aimming straight down (as carried).
Picture in your mind a rectangular piece of leather which is folded exactly in the middle by the pressure of the pencil riding on the sights. The bottom edge of the rectangle extends about a 1/4 inch past the muzzle. The top edge is even with the hammer end of the cylinder. The fold covers the trigger guard and goes past that by 1/2 inch. Laminations fill the area below the trigger guard and next to the case ejector lug. Now simply cut out where the cylinder touches the folds, leaving no leather above the cylinder. This allows the fold to tuck under the bullet end of the cylinder. Look at the attached drawing.
 

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OK let me befog the air. Here's a DIY holster made without leather or glue, that works with a revolver with a big, bulkey red dot on it.
I used a piece of aluminum sheet, 2" wide x 12" long x .062 thk. Bend one end 90 degrees, 1.5" from the end, and drill a 5/16" hole approx dead center. Install a 5/16" nylon bolt and nut thru the hole, protrudeing about 1" upward.
Make the soft bits from 2" wide nylon strap (seat belt) with a loop at each end, larger on top. Pop rivet the strap to the aluminum, adjusting for correct height for your gun. I went for a low-hung rig for a 6" .357. Trim the aluminum as required.
Locate a rare-earth magnet. Mine was surplus from a computer hard drive motor. The mounting bracket on mine cradles the cylinder of my revolver. Rivet the magnet, and whatever small bracket is required to the aluminum strap, at the appropriate location.
Add a safety strap to secure the gun while you're running, jumping, or persuing zombies. For normal walking around those super magnets have a grip like a monkey.
You'll get asked "What holds that up?" more often than a prom queen in a strapless dress.
 

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Cut out is on both sides, and does not print. The handle might just a little bit as might the corners, but looks as if it's a paperback novel.
 
Glue?

Good for you, but frankly, this upsets my universal cosmic sence of balance, which is tilted strongly toward double stitched saddle leather from someone like Alonzo, for instance.

Happy New Year! :)

wb
 
A simple alternative to stitching your glued holsters would be brass, copper, bronze or stainless rivets. Less time consuming than stitching, and if the glue gives at any point the whole seam won't come apart.

Just a side note: rough out leather is a good choice for an outdoors belt holster. Rough out leather will resist abrasion and hard scuffing better than smooth side out. In addition to being made of one piece of leather (no seams), this is the way the best mountain boots are made. Water resistance is better; a deep scratch in the smooth side on the outside of a boot will allow water inside once it is saturated.

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Gorilla glue is the duct tape of the 21st century, and I don't mean that in a bad way. I've only used it on wood, but MAN that's some strong stuff.
 
I test for fit with glue. Try to tear it apart, and you will be surprised at the strenght of Gorrila glue. I helps a great deal to glue first for sewing in general, same as double tape helps for sail manufacture. If I really like it, I spend the extra 2 hours time sewing and finishing.
 
Urban youth have a saying for this.

It's called "ghetto", as in "That is one ghetto holster."

But I commend you on your creativiy. It looks like somehting I'd do.
 
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