Charlie98
Member
again, the bolt face should only clear the bolt stop by 100-120thou.
Let's go have a look...
again, the bolt face should only clear the bolt stop by 100-120thou.
The tolerances make that distance variance much wider than 0.020".The ONLY failure mode which makes that happen is when the case bounces off of the port at the rear because the bolt is traveling too far rearward - again, the bolt face should only clear the bolt stop by 100-120thou.
The only possible way a buffer change can influence this problem is if your existing buffer bumper is cut too short or worn.
Dings this high on the case are irrefutably from the shell deflector, NOT port rim contact.
If it is more than a little kiss (below) you might have a problem.
You're going to have to explain why those small dings in the cases also appear in M16A1s and other models without case deflectors . . .
Heavier recoil spring did not help in my case but might in yours.
You're going to have to explain why those small dings in the cases also appear in M16A1s and other models without case deflectors . . .
There are clear remedies documented based on your issues and a clear course of remedial action if you can discern engineering facts being given you from guesses being offered.
hmmmm did you measure the free length of the buffer recoil spring ?
Charlie the reason I mentioned the measuring the recoil spring is that it is a way to trouble shoot the system and the First place I check. A shortened spring with a set can increase the velocity of the carrier as well as too light buffer, or a light carrier. A kink in the spring can have the opposite effect, but depending on the situation could also do the same.
The other area I would look at is the gastube (look for kinks, bends, dents, rubs, interference with handguards, burnt area, small holes, excessive wear on one side of the tube where it fits inside the gas key of the carrier, alignment issue. A misalignment could have been done on installation not really likely but is possible. And been laying dormant until now, or now has created a gas leakage by wear of one side versus the other). Check the FSB / gas block for leaks, it could have loosened check snugness I don't know if your FSB / gas block is taper pinned, set screws,or clamped, but that doesn't matter what does matter is that it is snug.
Carrier when is the last time you actually cleaned the bolt path inside the carrier? Is there carbon on the bolt around the gas rings are the gas rings bent? misaligned? if all looks good move on. Check the gas key for obstructions, by using a small wire to go inside the key, of course the bolt and firing pin should be removed. Using a q-tip to clean the key sometime deposits part of the swab creating a short stroke.
If we was closer I'd probably meet with you as I highly suspect the issue is so simple it isn't funny.
But this is like diagnosing that my dodge 5.7 hemi is running rough what the problem?? 6 months of internet conversation turns out to be the alternator.
An under-gassed gun tends to slow down with a full magazine.
As I mentioned before, you might have a 30-round mag, but that doesn’t mean you need to load it with 30 (or more ) cartridges.
With an adjustable gas block, you can tweak as needed for different loads.
One way to diagnose an over-gassed AR is to assess your ammo for gouges at the base of the cases.
When I am load testing, as I was when the problems showed up,
These tidbits are useful to mention from the outset because conditions (ammo) changed thereby altering the background story (ran flawlessly for xx rounds). Something to keep in mind for all posters, share details.
This is with factory LC.
Keeping it simple stupid... I just said Lake City. My malfunctions occurred, largely, with it, anyway, and certainly as of late, in both my DEC and FEB range sessions with it... where I was only shooting LC. I also used LC as my control ammunition when I started trying to troubleshoot the problem... thinking if it doesn't cycle with 2 different types of LC, there is a problem with the gun, not the ammunition.