Do heavier bullets leave more copper in a rifle's bore?

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Mr. Hill

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Do the heavier bullets in a caliber (180 grain .308 bullets, for example) have more surface area contact with the bore than that of their lighter counterparts (150 grain bullets) of the same caliber? And does it result in more copper residue in the bore? Or is there no correlation between heavier bullets and copper fouling?
 
I have not found heavier bullets to generate more fouling in relation to their lighter counterparts. The only real experience i have with the bullets form the same lines are the 139ssts, and the 162ssts in my 7mm magnum, and the 165, and 180 NBTs in my .30-06s and .300wms. None of the guns seemed to foul worse with the heavier bullet.

This is pure theory, but i THINK bullet construction and bore fit likely cause more or less copper than the increases bearing surface due to bullet weight, as heavier bullets are generally driven slower than their lighter counterparts.
 
I'd guess that a lot of it has to do with the bore dimensions and bullet fit. I've seen (and own) some that seem to pick up more copper fouling than usual no matter what the bullet weight is.
 
I have not found heavier bullets to generate more fouling in relation to their lighter counterparts. The only real experience i have with the bullets form the same lines are the 139ssts, and the 162ssts in my 7mm magnum, and the 165, and 180 NBTs in my .30-06s and .300wms. None of the guns seemed to foul worse with the heavier bullet.

This is pure theory, but i THINK bullet construction and bore fit likely cause more or less copper than the increases bearing surface due to bullet weight, as heavier bullets are generally driven slower than their lighter counterparts.
I think you are probably right.
 
I've never noticed any correlation to bullet weight but some barrels copper foul like crazy and others don't. Some of my most accurate barrels are also the ones that copper foul the worst.
 
My experience was the inverse. 110g VMAX in .308 flying at 3,200fps coppered the hell out of my barrel

Let me suggest greasing your bullets. I have been testing the pre WW1 practice of greasing bullets to see how they shoot, and whether the practice reduces jacket fouling. I am of the opinion that greased bullets do shoot well, and, do reduce jacket fouling.

I have used various lubes, currently I have been buying cheap jars of hair grease. The stuff is mostly vasoline, something else, and it smells nice. I have used straight vasoline, automotive greases, axle greases, bacon grease, black powder lubes. I prefer stuff that is cheap and washes off easily, so these human hair greases are acceptable. Don't use stick wax, the stuff is impossible to wash off you and your cases.

Lubriplate AA130 on 30-06 rounds.

WYu3fXJ.jpg


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These are 6.5 Swede rounds that I pre greased prior to shooting them at the CMP. These are the ones loaded with 140 SMK's. This was the first time I ever had shoulder dents due to excessive lube. Don't know why, but just keep the grease on the case neck and bullet. A very thin layer is acceptable on the shoulder and body.

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This is an exceptional group with a featherweight rifle.

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These are 300 H&H Magnum rounds.

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Shoot fine.

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My 30-06 rifles shoot very well with greased bullets.
17GGA58.jpg
This was a good ten shot group at 600 yards with a M70 Sporter. Half my cases developed case neck cracks. I am shooting up this old ammunition as many have been loaded for over 20 years. I did not know back then that gunpowder outgasses nitric acid gas and ruins cartridge cases. The eight ring shot could have due to a big case neck crack, or is could have been due to me. I flinch, flinching happens.

EKp6QfO.jpg

Prior to shooting my 6.5 Swedes, I cleaned the barrels with JB Bore paste. When I got home, after pushing a patch with GI bore cleaner to remove fouling, I was unable to see fouling at the muzzle. I could only see a 1/4" down, but no copper jacket fouling. I do not have a bore scope and I don't know what is going on in front of the chamber. However, just as the guys 100 years ago claimed, greasing your bullet eliminates jacket fouling, or greatly reduces it. And it shoots well.

It is messy, you will need to wash your hands after shooting. That is something I do anyway, to get the lead and primer fouling off my fingers. I carry a hand brush and Go Jo in the vehicle.
 
@Slamfire I was almost positive that there was a jar of mayonnaise in that first one. Does all that excess grease cause massive powder fouling in your chamber, bolt lugs or lug recesses?
 
@Slamfire I was almost positive that there was a jar of mayonnaise in that first one. Does all that excess grease cause massive powder fouling in your chamber, bolt lugs or lug recesses?

It depends on how much grease is on the bullet and cartridge. These pictures are of grossly greased bullets/cartridges.

Big grease before and after firing. (The round is a 30-06 coated in lubriplate AA130)
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More 30-06 rounds heavily dipped in Lubriplate AA130 and fired. Notice the grease that has been squeezed down the cartridge, filling the extractor grooves.

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This is what happens when excessive amounts of grease are applied to the cartridge and bullet. Grease is squeezed back into the action. This is messy and had to be wiped out.

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This is a delibrate over greasing of 45/70 cases, again lubriplate AA130.

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After firing, the grease has moved up the barrel and down into the action.

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Picture on left is before the first round was fired in the Trapdoor, the second is after a number of heavily greased rounds. This grease needed to be wiped out. Not that it affected the function of the weapon, it was just messy.

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Here I was careful to use "just enough" grease in my Marlin 30-30. These cases were totally covered in the hair grease, I dipped the cartridge in the jar till the case neck was coated. I then ran my fingers over the grease, smoothing it out over the entire cartridge. Very similar to the amount of case lube I put on when case sizing. I did not notice any excessive amounts of grease in the action. My fingers were however, messy.

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That grease ring was applied to Swiss service rifle ammunition up to the 1980's. It has the consistency of a toliet bowl wax ring. I think it has beeswax in it. This is how the Swiss issued greased bullet ammunition to their troops. This is not in any sense objectionable to handle and it does not cause a mess in the action recesses.

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This month, at the CMP with my pre greased 6.5 Swede, I had applied a very heavy coating to the bullets and then used my fingers to grease the cases. I did have to wipe out the action when I got home. Previously I had fired around 120 rounds of heavily dipped 6.5 Swede, for the first session with the M70, and really nothing was horribly greasy. When I cleaned the rifles I shot that day, all with greased ammunition, I did clean the chamber, the barrel, wiped out the magazines and followers. How much lubricant is in the action depends on the amount of lubricant that is on the cartridge.
 
I think I prefer cleaning copper fouling to cleaning hair grease out of my guns.

There is a trade off. Getting your fingers greasy and oily at the range. I was able to size all the cartridges as is, without having to add any case lubricant. Since I detail clean everything after a range session, cleaning time at home was not extended, however, I do not have to use JB bore paste or extensive brushing to remove jacket fouling. I am surprised how quickly the bore cleans up. If you ever find cupronickle jacketed bullets, and shoot them dry, it may take weeks to dissolve the jacket fouling. That happened to me with one 303 SMLE and Iraqi ball ammunition. I soaked the bore for weeks with Sweets. I decided the hell with that and lubed up the rest of those rounds, about 1000 303 British rounds, fired them all, with absolutely no jacket fouling problems what so ever.
 
Do you see any significant change in velocity or poi from greased to non greased rounds? Im curious cause the one thing i HATE about shooting my guns is copper fouling. If i can do this at the range then hunt with dry rounds, it would make life much more pleasant.
 
I would say the type of rifling and smoothness of the bore would account for the majority of differences and yes, jacket composition. Bullet weight does not guarantee more or less bearing surface, profile will determine that.
 
A more simple solution for those of us who reload is to utilize a powder with a copper fouling eraser in it. My experiences with CFE 223 have been very positive. As in hammering 500 rounds out of the barrel in a couple of hours worth of shooting in class, with virtually no copper fouling at all. Barrel got hot enough you could feel it through the hand guard. No copper to speak of.
 
This stuff is an amazing copper cleaner. Shove the tube in the chamber and spray till the foam fills up the bore. Walk away for 10-20 minutes and push it out with a jag. If the barrel is copper fouled it will come out blue. If there is no copper it will come out white. Severely fouled guns need 2 or 3 applications the first time. I don't own any brushes except for my cast bullet guns. All my cleaning is with a patch on a jag now.

https://www.amazon.com/Gunslick-Foaming-Bore-Cleaner-12-Ounce/dp/B000U3Z5TI
 
Do you see any significant change in velocity or poi from greased to non greased rounds? Im curious cause the one thing i HATE about shooting my guns is copper fouling. If i can do this at the range then hunt with dry rounds, it would make life much more pleasant.

I have not noticed a significant change at the range. I consider significant something that requires a MOA or more change in elevation or windage. As a competitive sling shooter, I notice that each and every time I sling up and shoot prone, there are little differences, a click or two, from the "zero". Every time you change your position the point of impact will change because your position, however slightly, has changed. Out to three hundred yards the wind velocity and direction will move the bullet enough that E and W changes are necessary to bring the bullet in the middle of the target.

I would say, shoot your range rounds with greased bullets. Dip the bullet and pull it out with a twist. Dip and twist. When you get home, push a patch through the barrel, clean out the fouling, leave a light coating of oil if you wish, but go hunting with a clean barrel. As long as the barrel itself is not sensitive to fouling (and I have had those) the POI will be the same.

This was the first shot at 300 yards with a M70 with a clean bore. The last I had fired that rifle was at CMP Talladega, with greased bullets. I cleaned and oiled the bore as my usual practice before putting the rifle in the safe. The first shot was a greased bullet, not a dry bullet, but it hit very close to a perfect dead center.

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This is the rest of the group showing that the POI did not change as the barrel fouled. I am confident the group location and size would be similar had I fired dry bullets out of this bore.

17GGA58.jpg
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This makes me want to try putting a good bullet lube in the driving band grooves on an all copper bullet like the Barnes TTSX.

Not so much for copper fouling reduction because there are suitable powders that have copper fouling erasers, but just to see if accuracy or velocity are affected.

The Swiss GP-11 worked well with a hard wax bullet lube. Curious if it was used to prolong bore life?
 
I would be concerned about greasing a bullet/case as bolt thrust would be increased with possible damage to the rifles action & possibility of an action giving way over time.
Let me suggest greasing your bullets. I have been testing the pre WW1 practice of greasing bullets to see how they shoot, and whether the practice reduces jacket fouling. I am of the opinion that greased bullets do shoot well, and, do reduce jacket fouling.

I have used various lubes, currently I have been buying cheap jars of hair grease. The stuff is mostly vasoline, something else, and it smells nice. I have used straight vasoline, automotive greases, axle greases, bacon grease, black powder lubes. I prefer stuff that is cheap and washes off easily, so these human hair greases are acceptable. Don't use stick wax, the stuff is impossible to wash off you and your cases.

Lubriplate AA130 on 30-06 rounds.

View attachment 768389


View attachment 768390

These are 6.5 Swede rounds that I pre greased prior to shooting them at the CMP. These are the ones loaded with 140 SMK's. This was the first time I ever had shoulder dents due to excessive lube. Don't know why, but just keep the grease on the case neck and bullet. A very thin layer is acceptable on the shoulder and body.

View attachment 768391

This is an exceptional group with a featherweight rifle.

View attachment 768392


These are 300 H&H Magnum rounds.

View attachment 768393

View attachment 768394

Shoot fine.

View attachment 768395

My 30-06 rifles shoot very well with greased bullets.
View attachment 768396
This was a good ten shot group at 600 yards with a M70 Sporter. Half my cases developed case neck cracks. I am shooting up this old ammunition as many have been loaded for over 20 years. I did not know back then that gunpowder outgasses nitric acid gas and ruins cartridge cases. The eight ring shot could have due to a big case neck crack, or is could have been due to me. I flinch, flinching happens.

View attachment 768397

Prior to shooting my 6.5 Swedes, I cleaned the barrels with JB Bore paste. When I got home, after pushing a patch with GI bore cleaner to remove fouling, I was unable to see fouling at the muzzle. I could only see a 1/4" down, but no copper jacket fouling. I do not have a bore scope and I don't know what is going on in front of the chamber. However, just as the guys 100 years ago claimed, greasing your bullet eliminates jacket fouling, or greatly reduces it. And it shoots well.

It is messy, you will need to wash your hands after shooting. That is something I do anyway, to get the lead and primer fouling off my fingers. I carry a hand brush and Go Jo in the vehicle.

I would be concerned about too much bolt thrust, especially over time - possibly ruining the action or a failure of the lugs. I was always taught to keep my chamber clean & dry, free of any oils.
 
I would be concerned about greasing a bullet/case as bolt thrust would be increased with possible damage to the rifles action & possibility of an action giving way over time.


I would be concerned about too much bolt thrust, especially over time - possibly ruining the action or a failure of the lugs. I was always taught to keep my chamber clean & dry, free of any oils.


Their is a myth of over lubrication, these guys are at least addressing it:




They don't know the origin, but I do. This is a coverup over a century old. It was created by the US Army to explain why their low number Springfields were blowing up. Or rather, to misdirect the reason their low number M1903's were blowing up. Since it is a century old, it is so old that the leaders of the shooting community have no memory when it started or why. It has also morphed over time.

As for the issue of too much bolt thrust. Lets assume the maximum bolt thrust you can get is from an oiled case or an interference fit case. The first is obvious, an example of the second would be a necked sized case. For the case to carry load, the case has to stretch. That means the case has to be shorter than the chamber, so it can grip the walls of the chamber and stretch. Like an elastic band. Sort of like the elastic cord used by a bungee jumper. There was an actual incident where a bungee jumper made his own elastic jumping cord. But, the jumper did not take into account the stretched length of the elastic cord. It turned out, with his weight, the length of the bungee cord and the jumper, was more than the distance from the bridge it was tied on, to the pavement below. The jumper won a Darwin award because, the bungee cord did not stretch enough. While not an exact comparison, if the case is not stretched, or stretched to the point that you get a case head separations, then the case is not carrying all the load it can carry. Therefore, with a interference fit case, you have increased bolt thrust to the theoretical maximum possible level. Even if the case was dry, the bolt is carrying the full load, exactly as it would with an oiled or greased case.

To reiterate, assuming the maximum load on the lugs is with a necked sized case or an oiled/greased case, just by how much do you weaken the action, assuming the case is carrying load? Do you weaken the action by 10%, 20%, 30%, 50%? And once having weakened your action, how do you ensure the user always keeps the chamber perfectly clean of oils, greases, and never fires wet cases. Water is a lubricant too. And of course, how do you prevent the owner from neck sizing cases?

Hatcherites believe the case is strong and the action is weak. This is what they were taught, and their intuitive monkey brain believes it to be so. After all, cases are stronger than bananas. Cartridge cases strong, bananas weak. So, the intuitive monkey brain fills in the blanks of this theory with the nonsense found in monkey brains: half truths, superstitions, all the fuzzy wuzzy, timey whimey ideas that masquerade as knowledge, and all the time, ignoring the contradictions this paradigm creates.

But, lets turn this paradigm upside down. Let us postulate that the case is weak and the action is strong. And in fact, the purpose of the action is to support the case as much as possible, to prevent the case from carrying any load. Because if the case carries load, it is likely to break, rupture, fail. All very bad things. Once the fundamental idea that the case is weak is accepted, the nonsensical, confused and incoherent physical universe of Hatcherism falls due to its own contradictions. This is not to say that the devote Hatcherite won't create another confused, incoherent physical universe, and many do, but for some, if they discard Hatcherism, they are on the path to the real physical world where the laws of nature are coherent.

.
 
If bottleneck cases don't fit the chamber shoulder closely, they will stretch and cause case failure, after repeated loadings, which often occurs just ahead of the case web. Cases that closely fit at the shoulder don't tend to stretch as much with each firing as those that fit loosely.

It seems that if cases are over-lubricated in the chamber, oil dents or other deformation would occur on shoulders, like they do if loading dies have excessive oil in them when cases are sized.
 
Their is a myth of over lubrication, these guys are at least addressing it:




They don't know the origin, but I do. This is a coverup over a century old. It was created by the US Army to explain why their low number Springfields were blowing up. Or rather, to misdirect the reason their low number M1903's were blowing up. Since it is a century old, it is so old that the leaders of the shooting community have no memory when it started or why. It has also morphed over time.

As for the issue of too much bolt thrust. Lets assume the maximum bolt thrust you can get is from an oiled case or an interference fit case. The first is obvious, an example of the second would be a necked sized case. For the case to carry load, the case has to stretch. That means the case has to be shorter than the chamber, so it can grip the walls of the chamber and stretch. Like an elastic band. Sort of like the elastic cord used by a bungee jumper. There was an actual incident where a bungee jumper made his own elastic jumping cord. But, the jumper did not take into account the stretched length of the elastic cord. It turned out, with his weight, the length of the bungee cord and the jumper, was more than the distance from the bridge it was tied on, to the pavement below. The jumper won a Darwin award because, the bungee cord did not stretch enough. While not an exact comparison, if the case is not stretched, or stretched to the point that you get a case head separations, then the case is not carrying all the load it can carry. Therefore, with a interference fit case, you have increased bolt thrust to the theoretical maximum possible level. Even if the case was dry, the bolt is carrying the full load, exactly as it would with an oiled or greased case.

To reiterate, assuming the maximum load on the lugs is with a necked sized case or an oiled/greased case, just by how much do you weaken the action, assuming the case is carrying load? Do you weaken the action by 10%, 20%, 30%, 50%? And once having weakened your action, how do you ensure the user always keeps the chamber perfectly clean of oils, greases, and never fires wet cases. Water is a lubricant too. And of course, how do you prevent the owner from neck sizing cases?

Hatcherites believe the case is strong and the action is weak. This is what they were taught, and their intuitive monkey brain believes it to be so. After all, cases are stronger than bananas. Cartridge cases strong, bananas weak. So, the intuitive monkey brain fills in the blanks of this theory with the nonsense found in monkey brains: half truths, superstitions, all the fuzzy wuzzy, timey whimey ideas that masquerade as knowledge, and all the time, ignoring the contradictions this paradigm creates.

But, lets turn this paradigm upside down. Let us postulate that the case is weak and the action is strong. And in fact, the purpose of the action is to support the case as much as possible, to prevent the case from carrying any load. Because if the case carries load, it is likely to break, rupture, fail. All very bad things. Once the fundamental idea that the case is weak is accepted, the nonsensical, confused and incoherent physical universe of Hatcherism falls due to its own contradictions. This is not to say that the devote Hatcherite won't create another confused, incoherent physical universe, and many do, but for some, if they discard Hatcherism, they are on the path to the real physical world where the laws of nature are coherent.

.


The Brits. & others who made the Lee enfield rifles coated some cases with lube so bolt thrust would be increased in order for the lugs to take set. They issued specific instructions that under no circumstances should oily or wet cases be used except in emergency situations. I have read about the 03's - mostly the early ones some were brittle & were ticking time bombs while others blamed the blow ups on failed cases. In either event I would conclude that a dry chamber, dry cases would be much more desirable. I have no way of measuring bolt thrust, but I assume a oiled case/chamber would increase bolt thrust to a point which would be detrimental to many hp rifles. HP rifles were never intended to be fired with wet/oily chambers as we all know. Some of the stronger actions will hold for a while, but I would think sooner or later the lugs/recess will give way with catastrophic results.
 
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Slam Fire, very interesting to say the least, however, I always figured that much grease on a cartridge/bullet would create excessive pressure in the chamber after build up. Perhaps I missed something along the way. BTW excellent accuracy at 300 yards, any more I have problems with my old eyes attaining that type of accuracy out to 100 yards.
 
The Brits. & others who made the Lee enfield rifles coated some cases with lube so bolt thrust would be increased in order for the lugs to take set. They issued specific instructions that under no circumstances should oily or wet cases be used except in emergency situations. I have read about the 03's - mostly the early ones some were brittle & were ticking time bombs while others blamed the blow ups on failed cases. In either event I would conclude that a dry chamber, dry cases would be much more desirable. I have no way of measuring bolt thrust, but I assume a oiled case/chamber would increase bolt thrust to a point which would be detrimental to many hp rifles. HP rifles were never intended to be fired with wet/oily chambers as we all know. Some of the stronger actions will hold for a while, but I would think sooner or later the lugs/recess will give way with catastrophic results.

Proof testing is not well understood in the US. In fact, American's think of proof testing as a destructive test, when it is a 30% over test. This confused thinking also comes from Hatcher's Notebook. The Army had low number 03's blowing up in the field, and in the factory. Instead of figuring out why they were producing bad product, the Army simply increased the proof pressures at the end of the production, thereby blowing up even more rifles! Instead of fixing their production line, finding the production problems that created the bad rifles, they did the lazy man's way of punting a problem down the field. They knew that some defective product would pass the higher proof test, and that these defective rifles would blow up in the field. They did it anyway and Hatcher spun this as a success. Mechanical equipment does not have the healing capacities of organic beings. Defective product does not get better with time. Hatcher's Notebook created some very confused thinking in American minds, and you see many posters who after reading Hatcher's Notebook, have the impression that the purpose of proof is to blow up guns. It sure would not make sense to tool up a factory, hire all the people, simply to blow up good product before it is shipped to the customer.

I have a book on European proof marks and proofing standards and it was years before I read the thing. US manufacturer's do not have to proof their actions, they can ship firearms without ever firing the things. Europe has centuries of proof houses and so they have different standards. In every test on European proof testing, and for example NATO EPVAT testing, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NATO_EPVAT_testing cartridges are oiled prior to proof testing.There is no technical justification for firing dry cartridges in dry chambers because the adhesion of cartridge to chamber results in an under loading of the locking mechanism. Proof test houses have their reputation on line, not the manufacturer's, and for them to have a valid proof test, which loads the mechanism to the full 130% of the proof cartridge, they have to lube the cases. American's generally don't understand this because Hatcherism is the pre dominate religion in the American shooting society. Like I said earlier, it is physically incoherent.

Proof testing is more than just firing an overpressure cartridge as a test of structural goodness. Proof testers also gage dimensions and verify function of the firearm. If the thing is not 100%, they won't it to pass proof tests. Americans just think of Proof as a kaboom test, but it is more complicated.

The most common reason reloaders over load the action, is by adding too much powder in the case.I have seen a lot of denial about this aspect of shooting. Many shooters are regularly shooting loads that run in the 70,000 to 80,000 psia range. You cannot convince shooters to cut their loads. All the time at the range, I see guys with function issues directly related to the amount of powder in their reloads. You cannot convince these guys that the pressure problems they encounter have everything to do with the amount of powder in the case. They always come up with excuses about primers, bullets, cases, never the powder amount. At the same time, while they are shooting over proof pressure rounds, they are shrieking about lubricated cases. In fact, if they do get lube on their cases, the action will lock up. Not because the lube caused pressure, but because the case is now free to press fully against the locking mechanism, revealing over pressure loads, whereas with the dry case and dry chamber, the over pressure symptoms were disguised.

Confirmation bias requires you to ignore this, to keep consistent with your inconsistent physical world. And you are doing a good job. If rifles were not designed to fire oiled cartridges than they were also not designed to fire neck sized cases. As I explained previously, neck sized cases don't carry load. I am embarrassed to say, I did not realize this until I read Jim Boatwright's papers at The Well guided bullet. http://www.thewellguidedbullet.com/. But, Professor Boatwright is correct, a neck sized (interference fit case) does not carry load. Now where is the out rage about neck sizing? :eek: Damn the manufacturers of neck sizing dies, they are peddling dangerous product!!!. :fire: There ought to be demonstrations, pitch fork and firebrands, where is the Society to Ban Neck sizing!!! :cuss::cuss:

Also, you will find ways to "hand wave" away the early semi automatic and fully automatic rifles that used greased cartridges. Mauser's very first semi automatic/full automatic rifle, the M1916 required greased cartridges. Swedish soldier's were instructed to grease the cartridges on their Lundgren rifles. And the Pedersen rifle, used wax. You will find a way to dismiss this also:


http://www.google.com/patents/US1780566

Patented Nov. 4, 1930 PATENT OFFICE JOHN DOUGLAS PEDERSEN, OF SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 11,0 Drawing.


This invention relates to a process for coating cartridges and more particularly the affixing of a coating of hard wax to the metal case of a cartridge; and the object of the invention is to provide a method whereby cartridges may be coated with great uniformity with an extremely thin film, and also whereby a relatively large number of cartridges may be coated in a short time and at small cost.


In the preparation of cartridges having metal cases for storage and for use, it has been found desirable to apply to said metal case a relatively thin coating of some protective substance which will preserve said metal case for comparatively long periods of time against-deterioration, such as season cracking. In the present invention, the material for said coating has been so chosen as to perform the additional function of acting as a lubricant for the case of the cartridge, both for facilitating introduction into the chamber of the gun and the extraction thereof after firing. The most suitable wax which I have found for this purpose and which I at present prefer is ceresin, a refined product of ozokerite; but I wish it to be understood that other waxes having similar qualities may exist which might serve equally well. Some of the desirable features of ceresin are that it is hard and non-tacky at ordinary temperatures having a melting point somewhere between 140 and 176 Fahrenheit. It is smooth and glassy when hard and does not gather dirt or dust. However, when the ceresin on the cartridges is melted in the chamber of a gun, it becomes a lubricant.



Other lubricating waxes have been employed for coating cartridges, and the method most generally pursued for applying said coating to the cartridge case has been to prepare a heated bath of a solution of the wax in a suitable solvent, dip the cartridges therein so that a film of the solution will adhere thereto, and finally withdraw the cartridges to permit the solvent to evaporate from the coating film. This former process is comparatively slow and has been found lacking in several important respects.




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But I will ask, why is Pedersen going through the trouble of patenting a process you think is dangerous? What I have found with Hatcherites, is that they dismiss wax as a lubricant. Wax is not oil or grease, therefore, it is not a lubricant, or as "bad" a lubricant as oil and grease. Their mental gyrations confabulate incoherent physical universes.

A common mental error found in many is the idea that their rifle was intended to last forever. Your rifle was never designed to fire forever. It was designed to a load and a number of load cycles. Determining duty cycle can be very complex. However for something like a garage door torsion spring, it is easy to specify. The average garage door torsion spring lasts about 10,000 cycles and then it breaks. If you pick the torsion spring specified for your door weight, and lift the door around three times a day, the spring will last ten years, plus or minus. However, if you pick an undersized spring, wind it tight, it will lift the door, but its lifetime will be very short. If you pick a humongous spring, your door may hit the space station on its way out of the solar system.

So many people live in this world, never understanding that the human created physical structures you see were designed by someone. All those buildings you drive by, the vehicles you drive in, these were all designed by a human to a load and a duty cycle. At least the ones built by a professional who is liable if they collapse! I would say that 99.9999999% of people think all these things were "born", endowed by their creator, through miraculous supernatural processes, with all the structure needed to survive and endure. But it is not so.

In print gun writers are such idiots that they cannot conceive of asking the advertisers they serve, questions such as, "how many rounds was the firearm designed to shoot?". And I think, shooters really don't want to know. Shooters, like home owners, want to believe that both their firearms and their torsion springs will last forever. After all, we are going to last forever, right? And since we are immortal, we expect our guns, our ammunition, our material items to last forever with us. We don't want to read anything that does not confirm these beliefs.


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