Do it yourself Bead blast for 3rd gen S&W?

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Shrinkmd

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How difficult is it to bead blast your own pistol to restore a satin finish? I have some LE trade in 3rd gen S&W which could use some refinishing to take out holster wear and some minor, fine scratches. I know that people strongly recommend against using a dremel tool for this due to creating low spots and other problems. I know people also recommend using 3m scotch brite or auto part grade pads for this.

Would a small blasting box and the right media be able to restore the factory look (masking off the cheesy "Tactical" markings of course, gotta preserve those!)? I figure instead of sending them out, the money could be better spent on more tools for the shop, as well as learning how to do something new. How "idiot proof" is the process, as far as damaging the gun? It looks like the cheapest box from Grizzly is about $120 plus compressor and media.

Besides for trying to refinish satin stainless pistols, what other home gunsmithing projects would a garage blast box be good for?
 
Home Depot has some grades of scouring pads that work well. They're very much like Scotchbrite. They remove the scratches, but don't exactly leave a bead blast finish. It does blend in well, though. I used it to buff out a scratch on a S&W 645. The 3rd generation Smith, BTW, are excellent guns.
 
A decent quality compressor is the hang-up when it comes to cost. Have a local machinist do it for you for $40.

If you decide to use it for an excuse to add tools (and I'm all in favor of that), get a really good compressor and then get a used media cabinet off Craigslist (worked great for me!).

Just practice the technique with some scarp metal until you learn the distance/sweep feel, etc. It's not hard. Tip - a good media is fine sand for $7 in 100lb bags from your local Home Depot. With the proper pressure and technique this will work fine. But you may want to buy some more expensive media to be more careful with your S&W.

Also, you don't have to have a cabinet if you aren't concerned about recycling the media and it's something like sand or silica. You can do it in your driveway and sweep it into the yard. Not good with all media, of course.

All that said, if they are just fine scratches, take them out with pads and a mild abrasive and don't bother re-blasting the whole thing. I'd only go to blasting when I had real pitting or a matte finish that was worn smooth and I really wanted to restore it to a uniform "matte" look.
 
I will pull the guns and look at them again. I recall it is more holster wear and shiny spots which I wanted to remove. Next time I am in the auto parts store or Home depot I will get the abrasive pads and see if I can do a minor touch up.

If not, there's nothing like a new projects to get some new tools!
 
In addition to what Oro has given you (pretty good advice), here’s some of my experience/thoughts on blasting:

First and foremost, get yourself a good respirator.

Then, ideally, a large cabinet, large compressor and exhaust/filtration/collection unit.
Me? I went with a small, leaky, bench top cabinet, barely adequate compressor (I used a small Harbor Freight compressor for years and a barely larger Sears unit now) and no exhaust/filter/collection system.

I had read that most of the bench top cabinets leak to some degree; mine was no exception, but at least I knew it would need some work before use (mostly requiring RTV sealer). It also does not have a light. I would get one with the light built in if I do it again. The unit is from Harbor Freight. I would list the SKU , but it was discontinued (here's what it looks like, price was near $120).
Something similar to this might be my next project:
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/08/homemade_grit_blasting_ca.html

The compressor required depends upon the air consumption of the blast gun. The cabinet I chose was a good match for my small compressor on paper, but I need to let it "catch up" (build pressure) in real use. Bigger is better here.

Blast medium: 70 or 80 grit aluminum oxide from Harbor Freight is a good start; as is their 80 grit glass bead. Just like sandpaper, the higher the number the finer the grit.
Silica is very bad for your lungs. You will almost always see admonitions against using it for blasting. It works (60 grit) and is cheap for outdoors use, but you use it at your own peril.

Now, all that said, here is what I what I currently use:
I have my cabinet mounted on a small table (cart would be better) so I can move it outdoors for use. I still use it inside, but prefer outdoors because of the leakage. I mainly use the cabinet for glass bead.
The compressor is still playing "catch up"
I "sand blast" out in the yard using a hand held blast gun (about $15 at Harbor Freight; it does not have SKU on it or show up on the HF website searching for "blast guns" It is siphon feed with a white plastic container under the gun). ALWAYS WEAR YOUR RESPIRATOR when using it. It's a good idea to use the respirator when using the cabinet as well.
The guns works better for me than the cabinet, but consider media loss with the gun at 100%. Then, if you blast into 55 gallon trash can you will reclaim some media and not be disappointed in the amount reclaimed.
It's a messy; as in you'll get quite a bit on yourself. Wear the respirator.

Don't mix and match used media. If you blasted carbon steel parts, only use that media to blast carbon steel and so forth. You don't want tiny particles of carbon steel (rust magnets) embedded in your aluminum or stainless steel parts.

Blasting results can be manipulated by blasting from various distances and/or changing air pressure. You can also mask off areas to produce different surfaces; I like to bead blast stainless guns, but sand blast the top rib/sight plane.

I use the cabinet/compressor a lot; prepping surfaces for paint, cleaning rust off of auto parts/old tools, cleaning up welds, blowing dust/debris out of the shop, etc. It also brings a whole line of air tools into play; love my air ratchet. It's a boon for DIY parkerizing (easy to do) as well.

Bead blasted:
2d9a8p1.jpg
Sand blasted sight rib (more photos of the bead blasted Model 60 here):
25zjt5y.jpg
Sand blasted and pakerizied:
http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/1911.htm

Regards,
Greg
 
I can only add that if you don't use a blast cabinet, be sure to use some very good eye protection. Some sort of swimming goggles might be the best to use. The generic shop type goggles let too much of the sand in, and the blast media *will* get in your eyes. It doesn't feel good either, for several days.

-Matt
 
I use the HF $200 free-standing cabinet. It has a light, and hookups for a shop vac. Nice unit, highly recommended.
Someone recommended you seal it with silicone as you assemble. that is VERY good advice. Mine leaks very little. I run it with a shop vac pulling through it. I have tried to build a water separator mid-hose, but that has not worked out yet. In process.
I do wear a particle mask and eye protection. I also keep a fan blowing from my back to push any errant silica dust away from me. It still gets around, as evidenced by the very slippery shop floor afterward.
So far i'm quite happy with it. It sure cleans up a frame or slide before refinishing. And t does a great job on matte stainless.
I did not know about not mixing carbon steel and SS with the same media. Makes sense. Not sure I can do that easily, but at least i'm aware of it.

I notice HF now offers a "blast eraser" for about $40. THis looks like an airbrush, but it sprays very fine glass beads instead, to erase scratches in metal. Looks like it would be perfect for those 1911 idiot marks. I intend to try one.

Here it is - now $19.99! (and another $19 for abrasive)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=99636
 
The only cabinet I've ever used that didn't leak like a sonuvagun was the Barrel Blaster, made right here in Texas: http://www.barrelblaster.com/

It's expensive though and if you've got a POS compressor (like I do) it's a bit silly. Sealing the little HF boxes are probably more cost effective. I gave my benchtop away and regret it every time I go to Alumahyde something or think about learning how to blue. I have a junky Wingmaster at home I'd love to blast the old blue off of, but instead I've got a weekend with some blue remover and pads ahead of me...:D
 
Buy a gallon of Evaporust and a planter trough from HD.
Takes the bluing off, along with any rust, in a couple hours.

Just let it soak overnight. Won't hurt it.
 
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