Do lightly lubed pistol cases need to be cleaned after loading?

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1SOW

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9mm, Range brass, straight wall pistol cases.
I use LEE's wax-base case lube: I mix it with alcohol(10 to 1 or thinner) and spray a very light mist on the tumbler cleaned cases before I size.

I've done several thousand rounds this way and never cleaned the lube off. The loaded cartridges look and shoot great.

Is there any benefit or need to clean this light case lube off after reloading?
 
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The big question is why are you lubing straight walled cases? Don't you have carbide dies? If you do you don't have to lube the cases at all.

But yes you need to remove the lube. When fired the cases expand and grip the cylinder walls and take some of the backthrust off the recoil shield.

If you shooting autos the cases grip the chamber for a micro second till the pressure drops.
 
I lube my straight walled cases using carbide dies. Makes them like slide like butter through the Dillon 650.
You can tumble them for a few minutes and it will take the lube off.
There are several threads here debating on whether to tumble or not tumble live ammo.
I have never had a problem doing it. Just don't leave them in there overnight or something.
 
IMO there's no "need" to clean the cases if there's just a light amount of lube on them. If they feel slick to me or they feel like the coating would collect dirt and grime I wipe them off with a rag but usually that's rifle cartridges and its because I don't want greasy feeling fingers. Even at that I'm not sure cleaning them is needed, just a personal preference.
 
I lube my straight walled cases using carbide dies. Makes them like slide like butter through the Dillon 650.

Edelbrock: I agree. The press operates very smoothly and never a stuck case. Those cartridge tumbling threads brought up my question.

Ratshooter: Do you use a case polishing agent when you tumble your cases? It makes the cases slippery too.
 
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Yes, clean lube from all cases BEFORE chambering, a couple of years ago there was an attempt to reinvent shooting, there were some misguided reloaders, case formers and fire formers that were lubing their cases and thought they invented 'SLIDE AND GLIDE' shooting, with slide and glide the case does not lock onto the chamber instead of the chambering sharing some of the load of 50,000+ psi with the bolt locking lugs, the locking lugs took the full load instead of the 8,000? + or - required if the case was not lubed, their thinking, if the case does not lock onto the chamber case head separation will be eliminated and cases will be fire formed?

http://www.odcmp.org/1101/can.pdf

F. Guffey
 
These are 9mm Semi-Auto straight wall cases. 124gr CMJ, 1060fps, PF is 130ish.

The very light lube (wax) is not visible on the shiny cases that also get a very light coating of Cabellas case polisher mixed in with the tumbling media.

Ratshooters comment about losing friction in the chamber does make sense, but is it a significant increase over case polish??
 
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I use nothing on my 38/357 cases but I do spray a little "One Shot" on my .45 Auto but not my .45 Colt brass. When I was reloading for the 9mm I usually sprayed some One Shot on the brass. Even though I didn't realize it before I wrote it like this, I guess I use lube on the semi-auto brass but not the revolver brass.
 
are 9mm Semi-Auto straight wall cases
Yes, they are a straight wall case that is tapered. When you reload them, you get more like a coke bottle shaped case, as the bullet expands the mouth, while the sized case below the bullet is of a smaller OD.
 
One Shot is a "spray on" lube and doesn't need to be cleaned off. That's why I like it for handgun brass. I use Imperial Sizing Wax for rifle brass but that's a totally different discussion.

From Hornady:
"This water-based lube evenly distributes lubricant without any greasy mess. It will not contaminate powder or primers and it will not attack plastic, paint and other finishes."
 
http://www.odcmp.org/1101/can.pdf


It seems that whenever a discussion of leaving lubrication on cases comes up, someone has to pull out the section from Hatcher’s Notebook on the 1921 Tin Can ammo

In 1921 the military introduced tin coated bullets for national match ammo at Camp Perry. Tin from the jackets flowed into the brass of the case necks, effectively welding the bullet to the case neck. This created a bore obstruction.Receivers cracked, bolts cracked, it was scandalous. At the time, most of the rifles on the line would have been the single heat treat 03’s, many of which had brittle receivers and had very little margin of strength anyway.

The military, following the second law of Government : “Minimize Scandal”, decided to find someway to blame the damaged rifles on the civilians.

Civilians had been dipping their bullets in grease to reduce copper nickel fouling. They had been doing it for years, maybe a decade. The military seized on this, ran rigged tests, and “proved” that greased bullets were the problem, not the bore obstruction they created.

I think the millions of moly greased bullets fired down barrels have proved their tests were bogus.

Guns are designed ignoring case friction. Just imagine, a designer designs a firearm assuming the case takes 50% of the friction. Then someone sneezes on a round, the friction goes to 10%, and the lugs are sheared on the firearm. Making any sort of assumption that a case will maintain any level of friction is a stupid assumption. Since the designer cannot prevent users from blowing snot on cases, or leaving bore cleaner in the chamber, ignoring case friction is a far more prudent way to design the locking mechanism.

In fact, you will find that a frictionless case would be the designers “ideal case”. Breech friction requires heavier extractors, more extraction force, requiring bigger buffers, etc. It would be so nice to have a case that just fell out without requiring primary extraction.

In the end, breech friction will defeat all semiautomatic mechanisms. You can take that to the bank.

Recently I was having problems sizing 9mm cases on my Dillion 550B. I have a lot of range pickup brass. Some of which was fired in chambers so large, that lots of cases were getting stuck in the carbide die. Of those cases the rim was being pulled off. I got tired of taking the die apart and reassembling the thing. So I tumbled the rest of that 9mm brass with a light coating of RCBS water soluble case lube.

Sizing became a breeze. I decided not to remove the lube and went out and shot the stuff. Guess what, of the several hundred cases I fired, I had no problems in my Walther P5. No funnies, no issues, no nothing.

I talked this over with an engineer at the range and found that he was leaving the lube on his pistol cases. He made several points that might be true. First of all, lubed cases are easier to extract and thus are easier on the pistol. Since lubricant is wetting whatever residue is in the chamber , extracted rounds are removing chamber residue on extraction. This should have the effect of keeping the chamber cleaner.

I believe that some ammo companies coat loaded rounds with a hard polymer wax. To keep the rounds shiney on the shelf. Just as with the Pederson rounds, this coating is so thin you cannot detect it. And a polymer wax will act as a lubricant under heat.

If you are loading over pressure ammunition than lubricating the cases will increase the bolt thrust over an non-lubricated case. The solution to this is not to load overpressure ammunition. Ever.
 
ArchAngelCD: I treat the light spray of diluted Lee Sizing Wax the same way-I don't see aneed to clean them again.

As far a adding to the 'slipperness' of the case and shortening lock time: by the time I tumble with added wax , and lube the bbl and breach with Militec, it's hard to believe the case is any more slippery because a very small amount of case lube is left on.

I used to load and shoot unshined range brass with no problems. Since I got a tumbler and the brass looks like new, I haven't noticed any change in the cycling characteristics of the guns or performance of the bullet.

With larger amounts of case lube where you're able to see and/or feel it, I'd probably clean the cases. With the very small amount I use with 9mm, I still don't see any reason to clean them again
 
Like Hornady One Shot for 9mm & 45

Run 5 lubed cases first. Then one ~ every 25-50 cases in the LNL case feeder. Keeps the dies a little slick and fast. DO NOT need to clean off One Shot. Wax, not grease or oil.
 
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