Do rust preventatives work as advertised?

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fariagaurd

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First test: A 96 hour or five day torture test of salt water fog being circulated around the suspended metal blanks. Ouch, a real test! This test meets ATSM B117 Salt Spray Corrosion Test. The salt spray test is a standardized and popular corrosion test method, used to check corrosion resistance of materials and surface coatings. Usually, the materials to be tested are metallic and finished with a surface coating which is intended to provide a degree of corrosion protection to the underlying metal(with this test the surface was scoured with sandpaper to remove the barrier to expose the raw metal). Salt spray testing is an accelerated corrosion test that produces a corrosive attack to coated samples in order to evaluate (mostly comparatively) the suitability of the coating for use as a protective finish. The appearance of corrosion products (rust) is evaluated after a pre-determined period of time. Test duration depends on the corrosion resistance of the coating; generally, the more corrosion resistant the coating is, the longer the period of testing before the appearance of corrosion/ rust. The salt spray test is one of the most widespread and long established corrosion tests. ASTM B117 was the first internationally recognized salt spray standard, originally published in 1939. Other important relevant standards are ISO9227, JIS Z 2371 and ASTM G85. Source for the definition of this test is Wikipedia.

Eezox = (never heard of it) excellent 1st
Barricade = poor (my favorite for a decade because it leaves a film that does not evaporate so it’s great right?)
Safai Land Breakfree CLP = good 2nd
Fireclean = poor
Hoppes lubicrating oil = poor
Hoppes weatherguard = poor
Montana Extreme = very poor
5W30 motor oil = very poor
Remoil = no protection (worst rating) I love Remoil, this was as disappointing as the Weapon Shield test.
Nano Pro MT = fair (never heard of it) 3rd
Safari Charlie = fair (never heard of it)
Silicone cloth = poor
Teflon Silicone = poor
Teflon Non Stick = very poor
Tetra = very poor (worshiped by many for lube qualities but failed on the Weapon Sheild Test too)
WD-40 = no protection (worst rating)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eJSLPLpF5U

Here is test #2 that was a spray it and leave it test. I don’t think this test holds a candle to the above test. With this test the tester seems to be concerned with will how well the rust preventative initially repelled the water by the beading affect like with car wax. Some of the same products were used in the above test that made the water bead well in this test but failed miserably in the above test which was only five days. The metal blanks in this 2nd test were not sanded and sprayed with tap water and left for two weeks. Without any additional rust preventative being added they were sprayed again with salt water and left for another two weeks. The metal blanks were then wiped off and left in the “elements” (I don’t know what that means, location, humidity, temp etc.) for another week. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOB5eCReAQY

Winner is:
1st Correx or Corrosion X (never heard of it)
2nd Tie between Frog Lube and Break Free
3rd Mpro7 and Slip 2000
 
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Great!

But they didn't even test R.I,G. (Rust Inhibitor Grease) which is the choice of every serious high-dollar gun collector I have ever known in 50+ years.

Anyway, a salt water fog over five days seems like a unrealistic real life test.

If it got that bad here?
I'd collect up my gun collection and move somewhere else dryer and less salty for my own health.

rc
 
I use a RIG rug on my guns, that is a sheep skin with RIG rubbed into the wool.

It leaves a very thin film of RIG on the metal and protects from rust.

By the way my safe's do not have water or salt spray's installed.

The best rust protection I've seen comes from the Navy, "PAINT", if it doesn't move paint it, if it moves wait till it stops then paint.

Chip off old paint and repaint!
 
orginal test

I did not perform the tests. I posted the video links to youtube in the original post. They are short and to the point.
 
Corrosion X would a have been a good candidate. Eezox and Corrosion X are good in this department, but there are better wear lubricants. So really, as usual there is no one great product that excels in all areas. The lubricant you choose for your AR BCG moving parts is not the same lubricant you use to store your early 1900's lever gun.

Would like to see the new WD-40 preservative oil in the salt fog.
 
I buddy of mine worked as an Apprentice Machinist once upon a time, and the Shop Foreman/Head Machinist was a retired Navy MCPO.

They painted EVERYTHING. Boxes around the machines where the operator stood, EVERYTHING.

At the end of the day everything was cleaned, fresh coats of oil or grease on basically everything that slides or goes up and down, even the measuring tools were cleaned and lubricated.

My buddy claims he never ever saw a speck of rust anywhere, it was like doing machine work in a hospital.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr
 
I did a home test using many gun oils, and household and auto products...Eezox performed the best in my unscientific test.
 
My go-to product for years has been Corrosion-X, but have since transitioned to Eezox. But the only reason I use them is because of their rust prevention performance - which has been exceptional.
Eezox is a good solvent for some applications, but there are much better cleaners and lubricant products that I use for those applications. I am not a fan of the one product CLP for maintaining my firearms. YMMV
 
Great feedback!

Thanks for the feedback guys! I will be looking into Eezox and RIG. NO offense to our Navy Veterans (thanks for serving!) but I'm not going to paint my guns.:)
 
CRC Anti Corrosion Film

I have had good results with CRC dry film products for normal storage and it does not mess your case or safe up. Easy to strip off when doing normal cleaning. Dry film is one product and 3-36 is the other.
 
RIG?

Is the RIG referenced by several viewers the one made by Birchwood Casey? Thanks.
 
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