Do you chamfer and deburr NEW rifle brass?

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Does it matter when you chamfer/debur? Like before/after sizing ... before/after tumbling ... ?
Yes, On the 30-30 brass I just got (Remington) you can see the case mouths are not round, Some are downright flattened on one side. I just full length sized them all and now will trim them a bit as they are almost max length. Then chamfer and deburr

It probably is good to do the flash hole but I never have on 223, 30 carbine or 30-06. Never did one on any pistol calibers.
I suppose if one is a bench rest shooter every little thing matters, but I doubt it will improve my shooting to be worth the effort. Heck, I do not sort brass by head stamp either.:uhoh: 99.99% of all my brass is range brass from the days when the fields were lined with gold (brass):D
 
You would know if you looked at the case mouth and tried seating a few bullets. Or you could just do what everyone tells you. :)
 
I just started reloading rifle (.222 Rem) ; I've been reloading .38 Special for a few years. I full length resized, chamfered lightly, but have a problem getting the bullet started when I try to seat it. Do I need to chamfer more?
 
I just started reloading rifle (.222 Rem) ; I've been reloading .38 Special for a few years. I full length resized, chamfered lightly, but have a problem getting the bullet started when I try to seat it. Do I need to chamfer more?
BT or Boat Tail-Beveled Bottom Bullets should seat fine without Chamfering, loaded 1000's of FMT-BT and never chamfered any cases
Now FB or Flat Base Bullets are easier to Load with a Chamfered case..

BT will balance on there own and load great.... FB will need to be Guided into Bullet Die so do take a bit more time to load
 
I inherited about 1000 flat base & spend more time picking them up than loading.:banghead:
 
In 1999 I started handloading with a Rockchucker kit that came with a Wilson 60 degree chamfering tool.
At some point I was researching everything Bart Bobbitt ever posted [40 shots at 600 yards, all inside 2 inches]. I found a 1992 use net [before there were gun forums on the WWW] where he said that not chamfering would cause the bullets to get scratched. He used a #5 easy out instead of a 60 degee chamfer.
rec.guns 1992 post
As I measure the old RCBS OEM Wilson it is 60 degrees.
The newer RCBS 22 degree VLD chamfer looks like 25 degrees to me.
And a #4 easy out looks like 7 degrees and needs a left hand twist to cut.
 

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Brand new brass is often in need of certain fixes: necks not round or not cut off square to the case body or not uncommon.

With a batch of new rifle brass, I test chamber to ensure the shoulders have been formed in the right place. I have yet to find a piece of unfired brass that won't chamber, but you never know. Then I neck size the lot. This ensures uniform neck tension, and if any mouths are flattened at all, this step will round them.

Next I find the shortest one and verify that it's within spec length, and I "trim" it just enough to square the mouth to the body. I trim the rest to match.

Finally I debur and chamfer the necks and uniform the flash holes. Now they're ready to prime and load.
 
Yes. It's part of the drill. Case preparation is a big part of successful reloading. So you want to skip it?
 
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