Do you clean your primer pockets?
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Grumulkin
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I suppose it depends on what you mean by clean. I almost always clean cases in some way. When I tumble them in walnut shell media, removing the media from primer pockets cleans the to some extent. Currently, the majority of my cases are cleaned with stainless steel media which gets the whole case, including the primer pockets, so clean you might mistake them for new.
That said, I don't think primer pocket cleaning adds anything to accuracy and if I were to reload cases without tumbling as I do on rare occasions, I don't clean the primer pockets.
That said, I don't think primer pocket cleaning adds anything to accuracy and if I were to reload cases without tumbling as I do on rare occasions, I don't clean the primer pockets.
As a separate operation, I sometimes clean rifle primer pockets, never clean handgun primer pockets.
But, I prefer to clean all brass after resizing, even those loaded on a progressive so some primer pocket cleaning is done during the final tumbling.
But, I prefer to clean all brass after resizing, even those loaded on a progressive so some primer pocket cleaning is done during the final tumbling.
BADUNAME37
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Yes.
New cases and new (to me) cases I check every pocket and ream. Thereafter, when reloading, I clean pockets every time using the primer pocket wire brush on a drill at fairly low-speed. Less than a second per case with moderate pressure against the rotating brush makes them like new.
I use a tie-wrap to hold the drill switch at the proper speed then lay the drill sideways in my RCBS Press with the primer pocket brush sticking out the left side then raise the ram to hold the plastic drill housing in place within the press.
I do this after the cases have been de-primed and then tumbled. This method typically removes any media that might be stuck in the flash hole.
New cases and new (to me) cases I check every pocket and ream. Thereafter, when reloading, I clean pockets every time using the primer pocket wire brush on a drill at fairly low-speed. Less than a second per case with moderate pressure against the rotating brush makes them like new.
I use a tie-wrap to hold the drill switch at the proper speed then lay the drill sideways in my RCBS Press with the primer pocket brush sticking out the left side then raise the ram to hold the plastic drill housing in place within the press.
I do this after the cases have been de-primed and then tumbled. This method typically removes any media that might be stuck in the flash hole.
pahrumpcaveman
Member
where did you get SS media ???
FROGO207
Member
I only specifically clean my primer pockets as a separate operation for pistol/rifle when making rounds for self defense or hunting dangerous game. I feel it is really not neccesary but would feel REALLY BAD if I was wrong just THAT one time when needed.
Belt and suspenders type of thing.
Belt and suspenders type of thing.
LiveLife
Member
Rifle (.223/.308):
When I check the case base for military crimp, I inspect the primer pocket and clean as necessary with Lee primer pocket cleaner - it's quick couple of turns with my fingers.
Pistol:
When I load general purpose/range/plinking rounds on the progressive, I can't inspect the primer pockets and they do not get cleaned as they are press primed.
When I load match grade ammo, I resize/deprime the cases first, inspect and clean the primer pockets as necessary and hand prime the cases.
When I check the case base for military crimp, I inspect the primer pocket and clean as necessary with Lee primer pocket cleaner - it's quick couple of turns with my fingers.
Pistol:
When I load general purpose/range/plinking rounds on the progressive, I can't inspect the primer pockets and they do not get cleaned as they are press primed.
When I load match grade ammo, I resize/deprime the cases first, inspect and clean the primer pockets as necessary and hand prime the cases.
Grumulkin
Member
Stainless Steel Media Source
It has to be used with a rotary tumbler like Thumler's Tumbler, by the way and not a vibratory tumbler.
jhansman
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This step is part and parcel of my brass processing. It does get a bit tedious, but I settle in with a mug of coffee and put on some music and enjoy myself. It also gives me an opportunity to take a second (or third) look at the brass to see if it is in good enough shape to keep.
amlevin
Member
I actually answered "All the Time" for both Pistol and Rifle brass. The reason being that I now clean all my brass using the Stainless Steel pin media for my tumbler. It not only cleans the primer pocket but the inside of the case as well.
Essentially I am reloading with brass that is as clean as NEW brass in every aspect. Finish is nicer than new and almost as shiny as corncob polishing.
Even "Uniforming" of primer pockets is easier with sparkling clean pockets.
I now like to de-prime everything when I get back from the range and put my brass in the appropriate bins. By doing this I can get a good feel for both pistol and rifle brass that has loose primer pockets.
Essentially I am reloading with brass that is as clean as NEW brass in every aspect. Finish is nicer than new and almost as shiny as corncob polishing.
Even "Uniforming" of primer pockets is easier with sparkling clean pockets.
I now like to de-prime everything when I get back from the range and put my brass in the appropriate bins. By doing this I can get a good feel for both pistol and rifle brass that has loose primer pockets.
ReloaderFred
Member
Yes, each and every round, for all 31 calibers I load. I built a machine that allows me to clean them really fast. I can do 1,000 rounds of .38 Spl. brass in about 40 minutes.
I have no primer problems, and haven't in so many years I've forgotten when the last one was. No reason to change now.
Fred
I have no primer problems, and haven't in so many years I've forgotten when the last one was. No reason to change now.
Fred
Dirtdgger
Member
Same here every round every time .I'm just that way.
RidgwayCO
Member
I clean the primer pockets of everything I reload, pistol and rifle. Why? Because it makes me feel better, and I've never had a failure to fire...
Every case I reload gets the primer pocket uniformed initially. Then when they're being processed after shooting, the first thing I do is decap the primer with a Lee universal depriming die, and then hit the primer pocket with the primer pocket uniformer spinning in my RCBS Trim Mate. It takes only a second for each case, and then they all go into the vibrating tumbler. After a couple of hours they come out looking like new, and the primer pockets are clean down to the metal. Never have a problem seating primers to the recommended depth, and the rounds always go bang.
Obviously, based on the number of reloaders who say they never clean primer pockets, it isn't strictly necessary. But cleaning your primer pockets certainly doesn't hurt anything, either.
In my opinion, this topic has become ALMOST as tiresome as the 9mm/40S&W/45ACP "which is better" debate...
Every case I reload gets the primer pocket uniformed initially. Then when they're being processed after shooting, the first thing I do is decap the primer with a Lee universal depriming die, and then hit the primer pocket with the primer pocket uniformer spinning in my RCBS Trim Mate. It takes only a second for each case, and then they all go into the vibrating tumbler. After a couple of hours they come out looking like new, and the primer pockets are clean down to the metal. Never have a problem seating primers to the recommended depth, and the rounds always go bang.
Obviously, based on the number of reloaders who say they never clean primer pockets, it isn't strictly necessary. But cleaning your primer pockets certainly doesn't hurt anything, either.
In my opinion, this topic has become ALMOST as tiresome as the 9mm/40S&W/45ACP "which is better" debate...
HK SD9 Tactical
Member
I decided to give SS a shot at cleaning. Am very impressed with the results. I am using the HF rock tumbler (dual drum) and can clean about 400 9mm cases at a time, or 200 .357mag cases, or 250 .40 cal cases. Did all three today. I run it for three hours and I have to admit, i was a little disappointed with the .357 and .40 cal in that I was expencting a little more cleaning in the primer pockets, but when the 9mm came out, it was fantastic. I think that maybe I have too much brass in the drums for .357 Mag and .40 S&W brass or I need more time.
I use 1lb of stainless steel media, about 1/16 teaspoon of the lemi shine , and a very small squirt of dawn )three or four drops). Add water to just above the case level. I have a water softener so very little chemicals are needed.
Total cost was $110.00 (got the rotary dual barrel on sale with 20% off from HF) and so far I am very happy.
I would not do this type of cleaning all the time due to the peening of the SS media against the brass but once about every five firings should work out fine. Between the 5 cycles, I use a RCBS vibratory with walnut which does an excellent job, just does not clean the primer pockets or the inside of the brass.
I use 1lb of stainless steel media, about 1/16 teaspoon of the lemi shine , and a very small squirt of dawn )three or four drops). Add water to just above the case level. I have a water softener so very little chemicals are needed.
Total cost was $110.00 (got the rotary dual barrel on sale with 20% off from HF) and so far I am very happy.
I would not do this type of cleaning all the time due to the peening of the SS media against the brass but once about every five firings should work out fine. Between the 5 cycles, I use a RCBS vibratory with walnut which does an excellent job, just does not clean the primer pockets or the inside of the brass.
spartan00054
Member
I deburr and chamfer and uniform pockets on an RCBS case prep center, so it's not that much more effort to move one station over and use the wire brush. The amount of gorp that collects at the base of the brush and uniformer stations in the course of a 400 round batch is incredible.
exavid
Member
Normally I don't clean the primer pockets in pistol calibers but often do for
.380s because I've had some problems getting the primers flush in those little shells. Doesn't seem to make any difference what make the shells are. Never have any need to clean for 9mm and up.
.380s because I've had some problems getting the primers flush in those little shells. Doesn't seem to make any difference what make the shells are. Never have any need to clean for 9mm and up.
FirinFlatTop
Member
why would you do Hunting ammo? over any other? If I had problems with any of my other,(range, handgun,rifle) primer pockets then I would need to clean them all,, Right? Not sure this question has any merit.
RC
RC
billybob44
Contributing Member
I've had this happen in 9MM+.40 S&W mostly. Into the scrap bucket they go. You can remove the rings by using a small bottoming tap that will just start into the primer ring. Tighten the tap-it will bottom out on the case+pull out the primer ring. Bill.
Romeo 33 Delta
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I'm in the camp that uses a primer pocket uniformer with all new brass. I went through a period where I cleaned them with the same uniformer ... then went through a no cleaning period. Now, I am back to cleaning, but only because I used to just save all my fired brass and then start reloading in late Fall after I was done shooting for the year. Well, now I've hit on at least depriming, resizing and tumbling the cases the evening after I shoot them and since the tumbler is the bottleneck in this setup, I have some spare time to kill until the brass is up to snuff. So I got out my RCBS case prep center and do that after the clean brass comes out of the tumbler and I've thrown another batch in ... takes me about 10 minutes for 50 rounds and I can also deal with any stuck bits of corn cob. Now when Fall comes and I start reloading ... over 1/2 my work is already done. I can see getting through a season's worth of reloading in 1/2 the time ... leaving lots of time for some wildcatting ... something I have had to cram into what time I had left ... which wasn't much doing things the old way.:banghead:
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