Doing Bulk Work on Single Stage

[Shaq]

You didn't mention priming. If those cases are primed, it only takes a few minutes to powder charge, seat & crimp. I keep several boxes of primed, expanded cases in my favorite calibers. The powder measure is next to the press so I can charge, seat & crimp each round.

 

[dh1633pm]

I do bulk work on single stag presses all the time. YES IT IS CHEAPER AT TIMES TO JUST BUY THE STUFF. But sooner or later that won't be the case in New York so I continue to roll my own. I work a little at a time.

So first off acquire the components. If you can't afford them all at once, buy what you can when you can.

Next load some test loads. Make sure that what your making works with what your trying to shoot it out of. No need in making 1K rounds if they don't meet your needs.

Break it up into smaller units. I would do each stage a handful at a time. Big bowl with uncompleted and another big bowl completed. Do some everyday.

decap if used
clean
insepect and measure
trim as needed
resize
prime
fill

If you do a little bit all the time, it takes no time at all to load 1K of anything.

 

[lpsharp88]

I highly recommend a 2nd single stage press. I use them in tandem, like reloading 9MM, I size on one then move the same case to the other press and expand. Seat on one and taper crimp on the other. I do all priming with a bench mounted RCBS Automatic tool. All are within reach of my chair. May need to buy extra shellholders and extra taper crimp dies for two presses. I usually size then prime all the cases in separate steps. You do have to be careful to not miss a step using two presses but it really isn't an issue.

Now that I've been reloading for a while, I've been debating getting a turret press of some flavor, this may push me over the edge

 

[lpsharp88]

You didn't mention priming. If those cases are primed, it only takes a few minutes to powder charge, seat & crimp. I keep several boxes of primed, expanded cases in my favorite calibers. The powder measure is next to the press so I can charge, seat & crimp each round.

They're not primed yet, but I did get the sizing/depriming and expanding done all in one day

 

[lpsharp88]

Batch load as has been said, and use a powder dropper.

You'll do about 50/hr.

I found myself with 1k to reload and so I bought a Lee budget turret press. It's recommended for handgun calibers, has a short stoke, and doubles or triples speed. They advertise 500/hr on it, but I'm not that fast.

It was $87 and worth it to me.

Single stage presses will always be tedious as they're for deliberate crafting of ammo.

When I find time, I turn on some OTR in the shop and start cranking out ammo. Listening to something really helps.

Josh

I've been looking at Lee Turret Presses the past couple of days. I think that once I get the scratch saved up I'll jump and get one. I like the added capacity but don't want to get a progressive

 

[lpsharp88]

If you load on a Rock Chucker, then you are probably dispensing powder with a UniFlow. Some of the others had very interesting suggestions about brass kickers and brass catchers, but I would be "pimping out" my UniFlow so that it threw exact charges. It's not a lot of work, but the benefits are substantial.

• Use the small bore rotor for pistol charges
• Add the optional powder baffle
• Mount the UniFlow on its own stand (per the photo) which allows optimal positioning
• JMorris swears by putting the op handle on "backwards" (per the photo)
• Never use the first 10 dumps; put them back into the hopper
• Adjust the setting by averaging 10 dumps. E.g. if you want 3.7gr, then weigh 10 dumps and adjust for 37.0gr.
• Addition of a fat o-ring under the adjuster lock nut will hold your setting longer
• Practice dropping powder before you start loading

Hope this helps.

I actually do most of those things already. I do not have the handle on upside down, what's the benefit or how does it help? I also don't average 10 throws, but I think I may try that out and see how it does. I have added the micrometer adjuster, so I don't think the O ring will be of assistance.

 

[JimKirk]

IPsharp88 ... the reasoning behind the handle being in the dump/down position(RCBS Uniflow) is that the powder cavity is exposed only to the powder when you move the handle up ... unlike when the cavity is always up and has the possibility of vibrations from all the other activity on you bench changing the amount of powder that enters the cavity ... look at the photos in my earlier post(#34) .... also if you search ..I have a lot of useful "stuff" on the RCBS Uniflow .. back a couple years ago ...

Now if you can keeps all those "other vibrations" exactly the same on each throw ... then the handle down/dump would not give any better results .... BUT that is a rather hard task ...

I may be lucky and have the only Uniflow that can work like this ... but I can throw Bullseye/Titegroup/HS6/H110 type powders down to less than 3 grs consistently with a large cavity ... I don't do any of the rap/bang/flop movements that some other Uniflow users promote ... I do just smooth steady movements keeping everything the same each and every time ... I can tell after dumping a charge if it is going to be off just by how it feels ... this is a learned "talent" ....

 

[cfullgraf]

I do not have the handle on upside down, what's the benefit or how does it help? I also don't average 10 throws, but I think I may try that out and see how it does. I have added the micrometer adjuster, so I don't think the O ring will be of assistance.

I have not found any benefit to swapping the handle on the powder measure and it makes it more difficult, maybe less convenient is a better term, to make adjustments. I believe the theory is that the rotor cavity rests with powder in it between dispensing steps which gives it more time to make sure that the rotor cavity is filled completely.

But it is worth a try and see if it provides some benefits for you.

I have found consistent powder throws come from doing it the same every time.

I throw 20-25 charges when I first fill the powder measure before I start measuring. Then, when I make a change in setting, I'll throw 2-3 charges to make sure things have settled back to steady state inside the hopper.

Measuring 10 powder throws averages out your throws and probably helps you to not chase your tail making adjustments. Some variation in powder throws is normal from throw to throw.

Yes, there is an o-ring in the micro adjuster that helps it maintain position. There is no lock ring on the micro adjuster like the standard adjuster.

The micro adjuster does not make your powder measure more accurate or precise but it does make setting up the measure easier and making adjustments easier and repeatable. Make sure you record your setting and then it will make getting back to that powder charge at the next time easier.

By using interpolation (remember that from high school math?), with the micrometer adjuster you can make small adjustments, less than 20% changes or so, in your powder charge in one or two steps instead of alot of trial and error. Larger changes can be calculated as well but large changes are not linear and will require one or two large adjustments.

If you swap your rotor drums at anytime, you need to figure a way to maintain the "zero" of the micrometer when installing it. Then your recorded settings will remain valid.

 

[buck460XVR]

What I've found works best for me is to load ammo on my SS when I have time and not when I need ammo. Thus all cases get sized and deprimed when taken outta the tumbler, so all my brass is ready to go. Then I will do batches of 100 of so at a time to avoid burnout and getting lackadaisical and complacent. Instead of sitting down and doing a thousand at a time, I do 100 at a time several times. Those nights after supper when there's nuttin' on T.V. Rainy/snowy/cold Sunday afternoons. Next thing you know, I got several thousand rounds sittin' on the shelf and it wasn't much of an effort and I had time and the focus to do 'em right.

 

[RandyP]

I use my turret for the past 7 years but 100% agree with z7's suggestions regarding dividing the 1K task into easily doable 100 round segments. It reduces the monotony and allows for inspection of each one to prevent an error caused by tedium inattention.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I've been looking at Lee Turret Presses the past couple of days. I think that once I get the scratch saved up I'll jump and get one. I like the added capacity but don't want to get a progressive

I think you will be very happy with that choice. I added a Lee Classic Turret Press to my bench along with my Rockchucker about 11 years ago and I'm glad I did. I do most if my handgun loading on it now. I even bought a Pro AutoDisk and mounted it on the turret press. Like I said above, I can safely load 180 to 200 handgun rounds an hour without rushing or missing anything. Just be sure to buy the CLASSIC Turret press, not the Deluxe.

You can probably mount any powder measure you already have with a riser and a powder through die. I even prime on the Lee Turret press because it works well.

Riser: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/114080/lee-auto-disk-powder-measure-riser

Powder through die: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/422586/lee-powder-through-expander-die-9mm-luger

 

[.308 Norma]

I highly recommend a 2nd single stage press. I use them in tandem, like reloading 9MM, I size on one then move the same case to the other press and expand. Seat on one and taper crimp on the other.

I'm bragging a little, but having a 2nd single stage press is exceptionally helpful if your wife or significant other is an avid shooter and handloader as well. My wife is. Multi-stage press? Who needs one?

 

[Malamute]

I have found one of the slowist steps is adding powder, Find a powder that you can use with a Lee dipper or a homemade dipper. You'll be surprised how accurate they can be and a time saver not having to weigh every charge.

Wait, you weigh every charge for handgun loads?

Ive used both Lee dippers and an RCBS powder measure. The RCBS is entirely satisfactory to throw accurate charges with most handgun loads and most rifle loads unless using really coarse powder or shooting high precision at long distance. I weigh every charge on top end magnum loads, but I dont load or shoot many of them, so it doesnt bother me. The measure throws very consistent charges with the magnum pistol powders I use though. The RCBS measure is scads faster to use than dippers.

As somebody else said, fill measure, throw 10 or 12 charges to settle the powder in the measure, all go back in. Throw a few to check charge weight, or get adjustment right, once 4 or so throw good and the lock ring locked, throw a loading block worth, throw a few to check weight, if good, seat bullets on that block. Also do a visual. With relatively bulky powders an odd charge will show in a visual check.

In the front end of the loading procedure, I came to use shallow baskets for working with the cases, all steps besides using a loading block for charging. Shaking the basket sideways now and then orients the cases mouth up, making it easy to pick up 3-5 cases at a time for sizing and expanding steps (speeds up most of the tedious parts of loading). Bullets are easy to handle when in baskets, finished rounds go in them until bagged or boxed. Very handy also when using the Lee hand priming tool and when sorting brass.

I resisted a progressive for a long time, then came across a good deal on a Dillon Square Deal with several calibers of dies I use. I liked it a lot, but didn't completely like the auto advance feature. I later came into a Dillon 550, it doesn't auto advance, so I had better control if I wanted to check something in the process, like a primer that didn't feel like it seated right. Ive never tried to run it as fast as I could, I think 300 rds/hr was my comfortable speed to stay on top of everything going on to the level I like, and I don't feel rushed or that theres no room for missing mistakes at that rate.

I haven't used my Dillon in a while, but plan on getting one of the LED light strips that fits right inside the press so one can see all that's happening, powder charge levels and such.

 

[coloradokevin]

If I'm going to load bulk on my single stage press I always do it in batches.....one step at a time. Do a step one day and then another step the next.....it really breaks up the monotony

This!

I load a lot of rifle ammo for precision shooting, and I load all of that ammo single stage (I started using a Lee Classic Turret press, but now I use a Forster CoAx). I break up the loading process, sometimes over several nights. If I'm starting with really dirty brass, this is the process:

Day One:

1) quick dry tumble in walnut hulls (effortless) just to get the crud off of the cases before putting them through my sizing die.
2) Size and deprime all cases.
3) Trim and debur all cases (historically this is my most time consuming step, but it should get a lot faster once my Giraud Trimmer arrives in the mail today).
4) Wet tumble in stainless media (cleans the brass, but more importantly for me, cleans the primer pockets -- unfortunately you need to dry after this step, so I usually stop here for the night)

Day Two:

1) Prime all of the pieces
2) Charge all of the pieces (this is my second most time consuming step for rifle ammo, because I weigh every charge).
3) Drop a bullet on top


My process for pistol is a bit different:

1) if the brass is really dirty, dry tumble it in walnut hulls.
2) Run the brass through my Dillon 550 (which sizes, decaps, primes, charges, and seats a bullet)
3) Go shoot.

I know the OP said he isn't interested in hearing this, and many of us were there at one point or another, but I just don't think it's worth the effort to load 9mm ammo on a single stage. It's far too time consuming to load 1,000+ rounds that way, and your time is worth something (unless you really enjoy the reloading process -- for me it is a means to an end).

 

[styles]

I polish and decap jugs of 500 then I prime into batches of 100. I have a bunch of primed brass in these plastic jars ready to load. Once I start loading, however, I go with that batch to the end. I will do many 100s of the first steps at a time, but I prefer 100 rounds at a sitting for the loading. I may take a break and do another, but I like to be fresh when loading powder and pay attention. The other tasks I can do less consciously and in bigger batches with less concentration.

 

[Hardtarget]

Just bite the bullet ( I meant to say that) and get to it! I, too, use a rock and YES, it is tedious to say the least! I'll say this, its the case trimming that kills me.I just do , at most, 200 at a time.
if the plan is to do a large group I'll size/de-prime and clean primer pockets. I will trim, when needed, in smaller groups until all are done. Once I prime a case I complete the round. I don't let primed cases sit. That is just me. On a single stage loader, large volume is just not a thing I want to look at.

 

[JohnhenrySTL]

I'm all for a 2nd press. I bet you could find the little Lee guy I have used for years for 30 bucks. Add on a autodisk for the same price and you cut your time by 70 percent if you actually weigh out each charge currently.

I try to only load in batches of a thousand. I work at it a little each day, sometimes multiple times. I always have plenty of ammo on hand. Loading to shoot the next day or weekend feels rushed. I hate loading trays and refuse to leave more than 3 or 4 charged cases sitting around anywhere. It feels squibish and dangerous.

I'll resize, put on a YouTube documentary and relax, it's fairly mindless, it's something I can relax while doing. I'll prime and inspect pistol cartridges while watching tv with my Lee hand primer. I don't notice it. When both presses are set up with charging through my expander, then seating the bullets, I'm paying closest attention. No matter what while charging cases I flip over every case before it's charged. I forced this habit early on. My micrometer and digitall scale will be close by and checking loads for often. I keep a multiple retired containers near each press applicable press.

I have forced solid right brain habits. I shoot once a week, my loading makes more ammo then I have time to shoot.

I did just buy a Lee turret press. It it is faster but requires much more attention packing up cases.

 

[JimKirk]

I have not found any benefit to swapping the handle on the powder measure and it makes it more difficult, maybe less convenient is a better term, to make adjustments. I believe the theory is that the rotor cavity rests with powder in it between dispensing steps which gives it more time to make sure that the rotor cavity is filled completely.

But it is worth a try and see if it provides some benefits for you.

Being awkward was the reason I built the powder stand ... trying to work the Uniflow with the handle away from you would insure that your movements most likely would not be the same each and every time ... the movement has to be consistent each and every time .... I also don't want my cavity exposed to the powder(as with the handle up dump gives) due to various vibrations that could change the charge ... I do load using the batch system ....

I spent the better part of a whole day working with both ways and I measured (RCBS 5-10 checked with check weights) at least 100 charges each of several different powders from Bullseye to IMR 7828 ... I measured probably over 500 charges that day ...Maybe even more .... MY findings are that the handle down dump is more consistent over all .... I also discovered that I can feel in the handle down when a dump will be off what the charge should be ... I knew it when I put it on the scale ....

Even RCBS has realized that the powder measure stand needs an opening for the measure stem or micrometer stem in the BACK ... look at their latest model ... yes it does have the opening .... right above the RCBS name ...



There is also a way to set the micrometer stem to be back to 99% on meter scale any time you change out the rotor .... If you will loosen the small Allen set screw that holds the outer part of the micrometer .... screw the inter stem down until it binds the rotor so that you can not move it ... then back it out just the tiny fraction of a turn that allows it to move .... now replace the stem outer cover and ZERO it .... if you do this everytime you remove the stem or rotor you will go right back to the settings you have written down .... BUT if you did not Zero out the stem to start your numbers will be off ... you can find the numbers that are relative to the old numbers and get close ... but zeroing is the only way to make sure the numbers are correct ...

Hopes this help other RCBS Uniflow users ...

 

[340PD]

I have my prepped primed cases of each caliber ready to go stored in plastic bags. When I do a bulk load, (usually 500), I turn on a gun related podcast and charge cases in lots of 25 check the powder and go from there. The time flies and I sold my progressive just because I enjoy the single stage process, even to the point of a fourth step of taper crimping most calibers.I can't think of many things I enjoy more than prepping and reloading ammo.