Door locks

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IrvJr

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Hi Folks,

I'm interested in "hardening" my home from burglaries and more importantly home invasion. Currently, the doors in my home (with the exception of the sliding glass door - a topic which has been covered in this forum) have dead bolts and peep holes on them. However, I was looking for some recommendations on more effective door locks. Several years ago, some friends of my sister had their home burglarized while they were away on vacation. The robbers simply kicked in the front door (which had a similar type of dead bolt, and walked in and stole everything.

What is a good type of lock that will help prevent this or at least slow down a motivated criminal. I thought about installing a chain lock, but to be honest, the chain locks don't look that effective. I remember an uncle (who lived in a semi-rough neighborhood) had some kind of lock on his door that was like a garage door lock. It had two steel rods that were connected to the locking handle in the center of the door. When you twisted and locked the handle in one position, the bars would extend out and slip into metal frames on the door jamb, effectively locking the door. It's sort of like the locks in the Stackon gun lockers.

Does any one have any recommendations on how to "harden" my exterior doors? What's a good resource (is there an online store?) for such equipment? In addition to installing a better lock, do I also need to reinforce the door jamb or something like that? If so, how?

Thanks!

IrvJr
 
I live in a town house with a set of stairs 4'6" from the door. I lay a 4 inch piece of wood down as extra insurance. It all depends on the layout of the doorways.

John
 
I think it was here on THR that a great thread covered this subject a short while back, high grade locks, steel doors, reinforcing jambs, etc. Try searching Schlage or Kwik-set (also check spelling!). Somebody else will jump in with specifics in a minute!

Stay Safe!
Bob
 
When we moved into the new house I had some concerns about the place being cased for a break in. In addition to the addition of double cylinder deadbolts to exterior doors I took the advice that, while the trim was off of the doors, I installed some rafter ties in the door jambs where the deadbolt cylinder and reinforcement plate came in. I also did this on the hinge side of the doors and added the longest screws that I could find so that they tied the jamb, rafter tie and door components all into a stud.

Also added new windows with the flip up night locks that only allow the window to be opened halfway. At least if someone tries to come through a door or window they are going to have to work at it and make some noise.
 
Could you be talking about the Fox lock? It has recesses (notch in floor) base /top/sides of door. Kinda like Cagney and Lacy the single one used. I like using long screws on hinge/striker plate and if door has outside hinge you have to fix that. (cheap method is take two screws and cut head/drill other side with them sticking out 3/8" into other side of hinge)
Then have locking knob AND deadbolt above it. If you are going to be gone for a while drill small hole in weak locked windows and small screw. Can also be used for doors. (keep in mind in fire you WANT a exit handy)
 
Good deadbolt, good frame (metal or partly metal where the bolt inserts) and a metal door will stop anyone withought a car to ram through it.

Don't ignore the windows! (or garage if applicable.)

There are some nice key-coded electronic deadbolts on the market. No need to leave a key under the mat, etc. (or even carry keys that you can loose and criminals can use later.) And you can change the code any time.
 
A great technique that I like to use is to place an eye bolt into the jam on both sides of the door. Fix either cable or chain to one bolt and use a caribiner to fix it to the other bolt, this lets you open the door easy enough. However, anyone trying to get in will have to rip the eye bolts from the door jam to force the door open.
 
A friend bought a new house recently and we went for the "tour" yesterday. I saw something on each outside door I had never seen before. They had two 1" throw deadbolts on each door. The first one was keyed on the outside as usual. The second one was not. When home, throw both of them. When out and about, throw both on all doors except the door you plan to re-enter through.

Doors should be metal or solid core with no glass in them (use a peephole instead). If they have glass, you should use deadbolts that require a key inside and out (called double cylinder IIRC), but this may create a hazard in the event of a fire. Something to think about.

Some of the mechanical button locks only require hitting all the buttons at once with the heel of your hand to break the lock completely. Flip the lever and enter at your ease.

Some years back there was a lock that is surface mounted on the door with a locking plate on the jamb. This rig properly installed would force the BG to tear a hole in the door since the locking unit could not be "forced".

I cannot recall the name, but I will see if I can find on the net and post later.

Ohen Cepel, that is a cheap but very effective sounding technique.

As Artherd said, do not forget the windows.
 
From my experience the following it true

The weak point of the door is NOT the bolt or mechanism itself...its either the door frame itself, which is more often than not, merely wood, or you have the actual hinges separate. My advice is this:

1. Reinforce your door frame (from the inside of the frame). I don't know of any store bought materials other than maybe a steel door frame with wood facade nailed to it. Very strong.

2. Reinforce the hinges themselves. Good comercial hinges will usually do.

The reason I suggest this, is that cross bars don't work if your not home to drop them. Same thing with floor locks and braces. Also for a theif to kick in the door, he will literally have to kick the frame work out of the front of your house or split the door in half, which if solid core, will be tough. That may get someones attention. It would be easier for him to go through a window. But if you have that barred from the inside no dice there either, same rule applies. Reinforce or an alarm, he has very limited time and you can't effectively get the "big" items out of a window in time to not get caught. Yeah, he may get your TV if not a big screen, or a VCR or computer, but thats about it. The clock will be ticking and he won't have time to even make a modest effort at your gunsafe.
 
Don't forget laminate "shatterguard" coating for the window. I think it also helps reduce heat loss.
 
The problem with all this is that given enough resources, anyone can gain access to your house. As was mentioned, locks are childs play. The thing that makes a door secure is the door itself, and the door frame. Then of course you have to worry about the windows.
You can solve all these problems by using steel security bars on everything. As someone that gets paid to break into houses, I can assure you that this is the real deal. It takes either a hydralic spreader, or a K12 gasoline powered saw with a blade designed for steel. I would be very surprised if a burgler could defeat security bars.
At one of my previous houses I had steel security bars on every door and window in the house. I had a bonus on the front door. The security door was about eight feet away from the front door itself. Therefore, no salesmen or missionaries or census takers, or the neighborhood kids collecting for Girl Scouts/Little League............, or anybody could get near my front door.
I felt quite secure. If they got past the steel bars, they could then lock horns with the Rottweiler. Once past him, all they had to deal with was me and my shotgun. Two out of the three were on-duty 24/7.
 
444- cutting torch works well.

Also, be careful of the merely 'bolt-in' variety of bars. Those are easy to defeat with a wrench and some time, or a truck and rope and no time at all.

Granted, all of the above indicate more than a casual level of desire of entry.

But so does a pollice battering ram.



Lastly, security is always a percentage and fair-effort game, and it's never 100%. If someone *really* wants your stuff, they will have it.

The trick lays in making them have to work at it, and work at it SO HARD, that they decide not to bother. (think Chyane Mountian.)
 
I suppose the chain and a truck would work pretty well depending on what point was chosen to try to get in. Most residential burgler bars are mounted inside the house for the windows, so you would have to defeat the bolts and bend the bars and their frame enough to get it through the window opening or break through the window header. I never tried it but I am sure if you have enough room and can get traction, it would work. The doors would be easier, but then you would have to deal with the door.
At the house where I had burgler bars, you would have to do it right in the front of the house, which wouldn't work out very well for burglers.
If you have some time and dont' want to make any noise, lock picks would certainly work. Mine had locks with six pins.

On my house, the cutting torch wouldn't be a good option. You would either have to do it from the front of the house or lock horns with the rottweiler.
 
...given a truck and a little time... LOL!!!!

Given a truck and a little time and I could have entry into just about any home, most businesses, and other buildings.

As noted, things like better locks, bars, etc. will hardened the target, but not make it completely impervious to attack.
 
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