Downgrading Colt Series 70

[StrikeEagle]

Hello!

I have a Colt .45 Auto, Series 70. I like the 'old style' lockwork and yes... I like the Rampant Pony it has stamped in it.

But I do NOT like the Spring Finger Bushing. For the last 30 years I've been reading about how those fingers can break off and tie up the gun at a moment of need. What do you folks think of that... are those things a liability? Or can I safely ignore them?

I suppose I could get a new barrel and bushing fitted to the slide... not sure what that would cost or if it's something I could do myself. Sigh... I just can't love it with that quirky bushing and barrel arrangement, and I've been trying for three decades.

What do you think?

StrikeEagle

 

[dfariswheel]

The reason for the broken collet-type bushing was traced to a mis-fit problem.

If the fit between the fingers and the inside of the slide was too tight, the fingers couldn't flex open properly. The strain caused the fingers to "knuckle" and the stress caused them to break,

This happens on only a few guns, and you can check yours by taking a look at Jerry Kuhnhausen's book, "The Colt .45 Automatic: A Shop Manual".
He gives the best description and check-out info yet.

If it just bugs you, you can simply replace the collet bushing with a solid bushing. You don't need to replace the barrel too.

 

[Logan5]

I have a series 80 Combat Elite with the collet bushing, and I'm not a huge fan of the idea of collet bushings in general. There's no advantage to them, and in theory, (hasn't broken yet) they clearly are more likely to break than a solid bushing. A drop in solid bushing may be possible, but I feel it's really a part that you want to be fitted. I eventually ended up going with a commander for carry, and the collet bushing isn't found on them, so the my experience is that they are just really annoying compared to a solid bushing when you go to tear down your pistol for cleaning.

 

[texagun]

I have replaced 2 of them because of the fear of breakage at a critical time. It happens rarely, but when it does, it can tie up your gun and make dis-assembly extremely difficult. I used a drop-in bushing on a 70 Series Colt and a Wilson Combat Fitted Bushing on a Combat Elite. They both work great and I didn't notice any difference in accuracy. And I don't worry about the things breaking at the wrong time anymore.

 

[Route 66]

I'm not sure what you all are referring to, can someone post pics to show the difference between the two?

Thanks!

 

[wally]

On my pre Series 80 Colt Government model that later came to be called Series 70 it appears that to change the bushing you'd either need to change the barrel too, or turn it down to remove the taper at the front. Do the current production "Series 70" guns not have this taper?

Mine is approaching 10,000 rounds and while I had to do a fair bet of work to get it reliable with H&G 68 style 200 gr cast lead reloads initially, only problem I've had since was the extractor broke after 7-8000 rounds.

I bought a Series 80 when they came out, and its my least favorite 1911, although it was reliable out of the box with these reloads and JHP.

--wally.

 

[thatguy]

66- The Series '70 bushing has "fingers" that are supposed to grip the barrel more tightly due to their being slightly "springy" as compared to the solid, drum-looking bushing. I have heard of 2 or 3 of these breaking. Never actually seen one. I think it is very rare for this to happen. Replacing with a solid bushing is cheap and easy if you're nervous about it.

I carried this Gov't Model Series '70 for about 10 years after buying it new in 1973. Something like 7,000-10,000 rounds with no trouble from the bushing. Or anything else, for that matter. This gun has never failed to feed, fire or eject in all that shooting. 100% reliability. The ivory stocks were added along with the S&W rear sight in 1975. This gun has been semi-retired for the past decade but I took it out when I had to shoot a score for my carry permit renewal. All the young guys with their Glocks were impressed by it. Maybe to them it was like seeing an Edsel? They'd heard about them but never seen one.

 

[Rockstar]

You don't need to change the barrel; just the bushing.

 

[Old Fuff]

Wally:

No, you don't have to change the barrel. It is still the same diameter at the muzzle as the older barrels, and the slight reduction about 3/8" back from the muzzle actually enhances reliability with the standard bushing.

Brownells (www.brownells.com) have an extensive selection of bushings - both hand-fit and drop-in. If you are uncertain about what to do, call them at (800) 741-0015 and ask to speak to Dave Bennetts, they're Tech Support Gunsmith. Tell him what model pistol you have and what you're trying too do and he'll get you set up in quick order.

As has been pointed out, the problems with the fingered bushing seem to only come about if they are improperly fitted, but the substitution of a solid bushing will remove any question.

One other point. Some of the less expensive bushings are investment cast or made using the MIM process. This in itself may or may not be bad, but be sure you get a quality part (the price should give you a hint). Otherwise you may exchange one liability for another. Again, Mr. Bennetts can explain the difference between different makes or brands of bushings.

 

[wally]

Old Fluff,

This is good to know. I've never actually removed the bushing after all these years
it is a very snug fit -- I've always kept barrel and bushing together as a unit when the gun was dissaembled.

Just for grins, I removed the bushing from my Kimber TLE II and pushed the collet bushing from my Colt back away from the muzzle -- Kimber bushing seems like a rather sloppy fit on the Colt barrel so obviously I was misinformed as to the direction of the taper from standard on the collet barrels and never having needed to do anything about the collet bushing the discrepency went unnoticed.

Thanks!

Here is a photo of my old Colt barrel and collet bushing with the Kimber bushing along side.

Obviously one sees all the "air" in the collet bushing and one assumes it has to be "weaker" but if you look at the steel that actually locks into the recess in the slide and takes the shear load its the same. But the fact that there were early problems with the collet bushings has tarnished the reputation ever since.

This old Colt has the highest round cout of any of my guns, only the Armscor made Charles Daly I've been shooting the crap out of (at least 100 rounds every range outing) to see how it holds up, comes close.


--wally.

 

[Old Fuff]

I think you’ll find that if you retract the slide about 3/8 inches before you try to turn the Colt bushing you’ll find it is much easier to remove.

If you have not already done so, purchase a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen’s “The Colt .45 Automatic – A Shop Manual†(Available from www.brownells.com and www.gunbooks.com) and you’ll understand a lot of things about your pistol in quick order.

Colt was trying to find a way to improve the accuracy of they’re pistols without getting into hand fitting. The Series 70 style bushing was the answer they thought, but it wasn’t. When it worked there was some improvement, but if it didn’t and one of the spring fingers broke the gun would be hung up and next to impossible to disassemble. Kuhnhausen’s book explains all, and how to retro-fit a bushing that isn’t right. However most knowledgeable owners prefer to replace it and be done with the issue.

If you’re concerned, a call to Dave Bennetts at Brownells will get you set up with anything you need, including the book.

 

[wally]

The bushing on mine is no problem removing from the slide or rotating for take down, I'm talking about its a very tight fit over the taper at the front of the barrel such that I've never exerted the force needed to slip it off the end of the barrel.

Since the gun is approaching the 10,000 round mark, I see no reason to replace this particular collet bushing. When I decide it needs a new barrel I'll get new barrel, bushing, link & pin.

--wally.

 

[BigG]

Don't fix it if it ain't broke.