Some guns tolerate dryfiring better than others.
The most expensive handgun I ever bought was a brand new Colt SAA Sheriff's Model Convertable .44-40/.44 Special. I bought it brand new in 1981 and dealer cost (I was an FFL then) was $640.14. That was quite a chunk of change in those days.
The manual advised against dryfiring. Technically I wasn't dry firing, I was only loading five. The THIRD time I dropped the hammer on the empty chamber the firing pin broke. It appeard that the shoulder of the hammer mounted firing pin was far enough out that it was hitting the frame when there was no primer to cushion it. Sooner or later it would have probably broken under normal use anyway. The replacement hammer Colt sent to me had the shoulder farther back so the hammer face hit the frame before the firing pin shoulder did. I dry fired the hell out of it after that with no ill effects.
I once figured that I have dryfired each and every double action Colt and S&W revolver I have ever owned at least 10,000 times each.
The Model 65 I recently worked on for a fellow THR member was dryfired about 2000 times just to ensure that the new hammer wasn't rubbing anywhere and was going to be compatable with the original trigger.
Of course I am referring to S&W revolvers with hammer mounted firing pins. The newer designs may or may not be as robust.
I have dryfired my Taurus revolvers at least 5,000 times each. So far no problems but I must admit I do worry a little because they have frame mounted firing pins.
But then I think of my old Charter Arms Undercover and Target Bulldog. They were produced with beryllium firing pins that Charter Arms declared were unbreakable. I have seen several destroyed and otherwise worn out Charter Arms guns but I must confess that I have never seen one with a broken firing pin.
I have no idea how many times I have dryfired any 1911 type pistol I have ever owned. But you can be assures it was one helluva lot. The inertia firing pin design relys on the firing pin spring to absorb the impact when a chambered round is not present. Perhaps the spring would last 47 minutes longer if I used snap caps but so far I have never worn one out.
I have one of the old Gardner Mass H&R 999 revolvers. The cylinder face is recessed far enough that the firing pin doesn't hit it. The transfer bar feels the brunt of the hammer force anyway so I'm not worried about the firing pin.
I've replaced several cylinder retainers in it over the past 20 years but she still goes bang every time the hammer drops on a live round. And as anothe THR member can attest, in single action, standing, using two hands, she'll put all nine shots into an inch at 25 feet using cheap bulk packed ammo.
I'd estimate this gun has been dryfired about 50,000 times. Hell's Bells™ I've already dry fired it about 150 times this evening.
Now regarding the pictures shown above...
The force exerted by the primer pushing against the breechface during firing is greater than the force applied by the firing pin from dryfiring even though the firing pin impact will be of much shorter duration.
A breechface that weak scares me.
Sooner or later it was bound to give way in one direction or the other.
I never did cotton to semi-auto guns whose firing pins remained protruded after firing. Dragging the firing pin nose across the primer during ejection just doesn't seem right to me.
There's no need for it. The firing pin's job is to jump out, sting the cartridge on the ass and then get the hell out of the way.