dry fire cap and ball revolver?
- Thread starter B yond
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If you remove the nipples the hammer will impact the frame or the cylinder; eventually the frame, hammer or cylinder will be damaged.
Get some air line tubing from the pet store (or Wal-Mart pet section), cut off 6 small pieces and install them on the nipples to cushion the blow. Simple and effective.
Get some air line tubing from the pet store (or Wal-Mart pet section), cut off 6 small pieces and install them on the nipples to cushion the blow. Simple and effective.
Steve499
Member
Also, on a Remington replica, a piece of leather can be placed in the hammer cut of the frame. The front of the hammer strikes the leather, cushioning the hammer fall and spacing the hammer nose away from the nipple. My single Colt copy doesn't want to work with this method since the hammer needs to be too far forward for the hand to reset to allow anything I've tried as a spacer to work.
Steve
Steve
Im283
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What about removing the cylinder to enable dry firing?
bigbadgun
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Capt. Willard
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If your nipples are adjusted properly they will not be struck by the hammer if dry firing..the frame will take the impact not the nipples. There should be a gap that is bridged only by the cap. How long the frame could take the punishment is a matter of conjecture. Probably OK for limited occasional use that way.
Actually the hammer is supposed to hit the frame, and there should be a clearence between the end of the nipple's cone and the hammer's nose to prevent battering. But all too often these points aren't attended to.
With the nipples removed there shouldn't be any problem except the mainsprings in most replica revolvers is on the heavy side, as were the originals. If I was going to do a lot of dry firing I'd switch in a lighter spring while doing it.
With the nipples removed there shouldn't be any problem except the mainsprings in most replica revolvers is on the heavy side, as were the originals. If I was going to do a lot of dry firing I'd switch in a lighter spring while doing it.
sundance44s
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If you ever buy a gun that was a display gun ..you`ll get a good price ..and get to see what dry fireing will do to one . I understand why most gun shops have signs posted against it ...like you dry fire it you buy it .
GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL
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I will draw and fire it dry but I will not draw and dry fire it, not for all the cattle on King's Ranch...Okay...
Well as a practical matter the hammer's impact on the frame is the same in dry firing as it is when you shoot. Most of the damage if you dry fire extensively will be to the notches in the cylinder, caused by an action that isn't correctly set-up and timed. There is also a possible issue concerning wear on the hand and trigger/bolt springs as well as the cylinder bolt itself. These parts last for so long and the wear or breakage is the same between live vs. dry firing, and in this both are equal. This statement presumes that the hammer isn't hitting the nipples, or that they are removed. No matter what you do, cycling the lockwork will cause wear and tear. Ultimately the perfect gun is one that’s kept locked in a safe.
Mike OTDP
Member
Nipples are consumables. Dry fire...it is the secret to really first-rate shooting.
Dry firing is a good thing; it helps muscle memory especially with respect to good trigger management, and it wears down burrs and rough spots in the small action parts. The only thing better is live firing. Do one or the other, or both. Often.
That being said, if you're going to dry fire, do it properly. Yes, the "damage" caused on a properly timed and set up gun is no more than would occur if you were live firing, but the vast majority of people don't have such guns. Therefore, take a very simple and inexpensive step to minimize nipple damage by putting short pieces of aquarium air line tube over the nipples (or a piece of rubber or leather in your Remmy hammer) to cushion the impact. Why tear up the nipples when you don't have to? Even if they are consumable it still costs almost $20/gun and the tubing is maybe a buck! Gee whiz, guys, it's cheap and easy.
That being said, if you're going to dry fire, do it properly. Yes, the "damage" caused on a properly timed and set up gun is no more than would occur if you were live firing, but the vast majority of people don't have such guns. Therefore, take a very simple and inexpensive step to minimize nipple damage by putting short pieces of aquarium air line tube over the nipples (or a piece of rubber or leather in your Remmy hammer) to cushion the impact. Why tear up the nipples when you don't have to? Even if they are consumable it still costs almost $20/gun and the tubing is maybe a buck! Gee whiz, guys, it's cheap and easy.
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rusty bubbles
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I had an original pepperbox pistol, circa 1850, and as a kid, dry fired it a lot- until some nipples broke- they looked very hard where they had snapped off- may have been its age, but since then, I NEVER dry fire. If I had to, I would at least put old used caps on first
scrat
Member
Never dry fire. I bought a gun off of gun brokers. It was in very good shape however you can always tell if it has been dry fired. just look at the hammer. if it has a round circle embeded in it. Chances are its been dry fired.
Im283
Member
I believe the manual that came with my Pietta stated " do not dry fire"
so I have acted with maturity and refrained from doing so.
I do dry fire my center fire guns as well as my Ruger SAS .22. Doesn't hurt them a bit.
so I have acted with maturity and refrained from doing so.
I do dry fire my center fire guns as well as my Ruger SAS .22. Doesn't hurt them a bit.
Ed Ames
Member
The Ruger OA's were dry fire safe (per the manual) but (to the limit of my knowledge) no current production C&B revolver is.
On rem clones I remove the cylinder and put a small o-ring (could also be a bit of rubber, leather, or whatever... o-rings are good because they hold themselves in position but are easy to extract) in the gap the hammer drops into. I use o-rings when dry firing quite a few handguns actually (including modern pistols)... you can usually find a place where it will keep the parts from slamming.
On rem clones I remove the cylinder and put a small o-ring (could also be a bit of rubber, leather, or whatever... o-rings are good because they hold themselves in position but are easy to extract) in the gap the hammer drops into. I use o-rings when dry firing quite a few handguns actually (including modern pistols)... you can usually find a place where it will keep the parts from slamming.
mausgun
Member
A small, folded up piece of paper towel in the hammer channel on a Colt 1860 works well
for cushioning the hammer fall against the frame and still miss hitting the nipples.
Check to make sure the paper is thick enough to keep the hammer off the nipples.
Not enough paper will allow the hammer to push the cylinder forward which can be felt.
for cushioning the hammer fall against the frame and still miss hitting the nipples.
Check to make sure the paper is thick enough to keep the hammer off the nipples.
Not enough paper will allow the hammer to push the cylinder forward which can be felt.
Fatelvis
Member
The Ruger manual does say it's ok to dry fire. Dry firing is a very effective way of smoothing the action up, and practicing sight picture/trigger control, for those of us not lucky enough to get to the range more that once a month. It would take much too long for the action to smooth up at that rate!!
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