MikeJackmin
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- Feb 24, 2005
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I know you can damage the nipples if you dry-fire a CB revolver. Is there a safe way to do it - some sort of snap-cap to fit over the nipples, or do you just remove the nipples completely?
Dry Fire?
- Thread starter MikeJackmin
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mrelijahgardner
Member
Dry fire
The best way is to take out the cylinder.
The best way is to take out the cylinder.
mrelijahgardner
Member
Erasers
I've thought about cutting the erasers of pencils and sticking those over the caps.
I've thought about cutting the erasers of pencils and sticking those over the caps.
Steve499
Member
In my Remington, I keep a strip of thick saddle leather in the hammer cut. I can dry fire it all day and the hammer never contacts the nipples. It doesn't work in my Colt, though. The Colt's hammer has to come too far forward before the hand drops into the next notch for there to be enough room for a buffer in front of the hammer. I don't dry fire it. If I wanted to do it badly enough I'd thread up some dummy brass nipples and have at it.
Steve
Steve
Seth Hawkins
Member
The easiest way is to remove the nipples.
ribbonstone
Member
In a perfect world, the nipples would all sit at the same height and the hammer would be a few 1/1000's from touching the nipple when all the way down. Ruger tries to set it's guns up this way...best to check as not all of them are.
For the rest of us, there isn't a good solution. Can either take out the nipples...take out the cylinder...or try the padding of the hammer (basically trying to make it sop just short of hitting the highest nipple).
Padding might give some timing issues...as mentioned, some guns don't release the bolt until the hammer is all the way down. So long as the padding keeps the hammer from hitting the nipples..even if only by .001"..then it won't batter them. Try various thicknesses of padding until you get both, cycling and no-nipple-hits.
Removing the cylinder really messes up the feel of the gun, which is waht dry-fire is all about.
It is possible to break a hammer when it is constantly being beat against the frame...normally, the hammer doesn't hit the frame at all. But if the hammer breaks, you needed a new one anyway.
For the rest of us, there isn't a good solution. Can either take out the nipples...take out the cylinder...or try the padding of the hammer (basically trying to make it sop just short of hitting the highest nipple).
Padding might give some timing issues...as mentioned, some guns don't release the bolt until the hammer is all the way down. So long as the padding keeps the hammer from hitting the nipples..even if only by .001"..then it won't batter them. Try various thicknesses of padding until you get both, cycling and no-nipple-hits.
Removing the cylinder really messes up the feel of the gun, which is waht dry-fire is all about.
It is possible to break a hammer when it is constantly being beat against the frame...normally, the hammer doesn't hit the frame at all. But if the hammer breaks, you needed a new one anyway.
Plastic Cowboy
Member
someone should create reusable brass dummy caps that can be placed on the nipples for dry firing. I would if I had a machine shop but alas...it is not to be!
Cincinnati Slim
Member
Dry-Fire Cap&Ball
Howdy,
I got a set of little rubber pads or feet at the hardware store.
They're sold to stick on to the bottom of tool boxes, lamps and pottery.
They come in various sizes and thicknesses. I cut 'em into strips the width of the hammer on my Colt clones. They have adhesive backs and I stick 'em onto the face of the hammer, just below the nose, to cushion it's impact on the frame. I use some about 1/8" thick. The hammer nose just kisses the nipples but not hard enough to peen or damage 'em when it drops. Cushions the hammer real well. You get a soft "thuck" rather than a hard "clack" when the trigger is pulled. They're sold in sheets and are real cheap. I probably get about 70-100 dry fires out of each one until they have to be peeled off and replaced.
Only downside is the sticky adhesive residue left on the hammer after use.
Clean it off with some solvent or cap fragments may stick to it when you go shootin' fer real !
Happy trails,
Cincinnati Slim
Howdy,
I got a set of little rubber pads or feet at the hardware store.
They're sold to stick on to the bottom of tool boxes, lamps and pottery.
They come in various sizes and thicknesses. I cut 'em into strips the width of the hammer on my Colt clones. They have adhesive backs and I stick 'em onto the face of the hammer, just below the nose, to cushion it's impact on the frame. I use some about 1/8" thick. The hammer nose just kisses the nipples but not hard enough to peen or damage 'em when it drops. Cushions the hammer real well. You get a soft "thuck" rather than a hard "clack" when the trigger is pulled. They're sold in sheets and are real cheap. I probably get about 70-100 dry fires out of each one until they have to be peeled off and replaced.
Only downside is the sticky adhesive residue left on the hammer after use.
Clean it off with some solvent or cap fragments may stick to it when you go shootin' fer real !
Happy trails,
Cincinnati Slim
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