Dry Fire clinic

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wraith56

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Nov 19, 2006
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I haven't been able to get to a range after moving last year, but I still dry fire practice with my GP100 when I can.
I have noticed my sights jerk consistently up and right during fast double action trigger presses for a very long time. I have slowed down the press and sped it up slowly trying to stop it but I couldn't train it away from happening at full speed.

After reading another thread mention a lighter cylinder as a positive for a fast competition gun, I think the "jerk" is the momentum of cylinder hitting the cylinder stop. Is this 'right'? Happens to anyone else?
What next?
 
I would assume first that you are yanking the trigger when you dry fire quickly. It sounds to me like you have too much finger on the trigger and need to focus on a straight back press. I may be wrong.

I found that by getting a bigger grip for my gun, to accommodate my relatively large hand size, I increased the distance from the web of my hand and the trigger, which resulted in more straight back trigger presses. Helped in all regards. Also helped control the recoil better too.

If the weight of the cylinder was the problem, I would think the gun would torque in your hands more than do what you describe. I have experienced this when rapid dry firing my X frame. Just a thought.....
 
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You're likely squeezing the grip with your support hand fingers as you speed up.

If you're shooting a S&W revolver, the cylinder rotates in the wrong direction to jerk the sights up and right.

The weight of the cylinder is minutiae, IMO. Until you're a grand master USPSA revo shooter, it's just not something to worry about. Even then, it's more about the stop notches getting peened than it is about the sights getting jerked.
 
I would assume first that you are yanking the trigger when you dry fire quickly. It sounds to me like you have too much finger on the trigger and need to focus on a straight back press.

This is it.

Make sure the center of the trigger is in the center of the first finger joint.

If shooting two handed, more pressure with support hand, about 70/30

That'll fix it right up.
 
If you need proof that it is a matter of technique and practice, just look on youtube for some videos showing Jerry Miculek in action, with Smith's.
 
Thanks for shooting down my wishful thinking. Maybe tomorrow I can start again taming that trigger jerk.
 
I found it very helpful to be as careful about the return stroke as I am about the pull itself. I don't know why this helps, but it does.

I go as slow as I have to, to pull the trigger all the way in, and then let it all the way out, without moving the sights at all. I add speed as I can, but never go so fast that my sights start moving. There's no sense in developing muscle memory I don't want.

Lay a nickel flat across the barrel rib when you do it. When you have that mastered, put the nickel on edge. I'm not even kidding...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmy5mkjpUNI

(Note: That's not me, not even on my best day!)
 
MikeJackmin said:
When you have that mastered, put the nickel on edge. I'm not even kidding...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmy5mkjpUNI

Someone called? ;)

I agree a smooth return is as important as a smooth pull. The trigger should cycle like a metronome. Literally. In fact, dry firing to a metronome is an excellent way to improve your trigger stroke. Increasing the bpm a little at a time is also a good way to increase your smooth speed, something the OP's been struggling with.


http://www.metronomeonline.com/
 
As I thought about this some more, I suspect that as you speed up, you are pulling the trigger with your entire hand instead of just using your isolated trigger finger.

Pay attention to isolating your trigger finger from the rest of your hand as you pull the trigger. Using the 70/30 grip helps do that, but eventually, you'll have to shoot one handed and that's when the conscious isolation of the trigger finger really becomes important.

Practice one handed. Go slow and speed up as you keep the front sight steady.
 
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