Durablity of M1a rifles

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I am a college student who is mainly into cheap effective guns. I have a mossberg, an sks and a kel-tec. However, instead of buying cheap guns, I am saving for an expensive reliable rifle that wont let me down.

I have been interested in the m1a series since I was a little kid. I love the SOCOM 16 and the standard m1a. I know they are basically civilian m14's, but are there any differences that make them less durable than the military model? I have seen ads for the socom where it is covered in mud and says it can operate in any condition. I was wondering if I can get some first hand input on these rifles. I figure, why not just forfeit my next twelve cheap gun purchases and save for a good one. Any info would be appreciated.
 
If you're going to save up, then go with one of these:

http://www.lrbarms.com/pages/2/index.htm

The Springfield Armory, Inc M1A rifles main shortcoming is the fact that SA Inc will use non-USGI parts on their M1A rifles. These non-USGI parts are often out of spec or not as rugged as USGI parts and will result in a failure. SA Inc receivers are also cast rather than forged, but this doesn't really detract from the functionality of the rifle.
 
First ask yourself if you're REALLLY set on the M1A. Because if not then you can get a great DSA STG58 FAL for about $800-$900. The $300-$400 you will save is a lot of mags/ammo/gear.

Shoot both. Have you already? Then place my reply in /dev/null
 
I have an M1A . . . the receiver is Springfield Armory Inc., but since the rest of the rifle was built for me by a National Guard armorer, all the other parts (except the heavy target stock and Douglas Premium barrel) are USGI. It's a fine shooter. Couple of thousand rounds through it with no problems. In theory the forged USGI receivers are more durable, but I've seen no wear or peening of the contact surfaces of the SAI receiver.

I also have a DSA STG58. Not quite as accurate as the M1A, but it's well-built and reliable. I expect it's every bit as durable as the military version. (Maybe better - DSA receivers, machined from a solid billet and heat treated, are very highly regarded.)
 
I have a scout, and I have not had any problems. I figure with a lifetime warranty there is nothing to worry about. As far as having USGI parts, I am not really concerned, as they are older than I am, and if a part fails, then I will learn what parts are important to have a supply on hand. Get what you want and learn to shoot with it. If it breaks (as all things will), learn how to fix it, or who to send it to.
 
I have an off the rack Springfield M1A purchased in '88 or '89 at gun show in Indy (think it was '88 as I was freshman in undergrad). Shot snot out of it (ahhh, youth) and it still works just dandy.

Sent it back about '01 to have the oil changed and tired rotated. No problems before or after. :)
 
thanks for that guys. Oh, an idakfan, I would love an FAL, but I live in NJ. I think there is a NJ legal FAL with the non-detachable 10 rd mag. However, it is a monstrosity. As soon as I move to PA after college, the world is my oyster. Hello high cap mags and mil spec rifles. But thanks again for all the info.
 
Don't get your hopes up (unless you've got a big wallet)... The only mil-spec rifles out there are transferable M14's and M16's.
 
The only mil-spec rifles out there are transferable M14's and M16's.
It's true that the vast majority of M1A's, AR-clones, FAL clones, and such cannot be "true" milspec, since they're not machine guns. But my CMP M1 Garand is exactly milspec.

Or at least, it was at one time . . . though for that matter, I wonder how many of the transferable M16s and such meet current milspec, since they all predate the '86 freeze?
 
My Springfield Armory M1A "Loaded" has 6200 rounds through it at this point. I did replace a few parts with USGI. Notably the bolt and roller, a USGI match trigger group, and a match piston. Other than that, the rifle is stock.

I'm probably going to be due for a barrel change soon, but it's still as accurate as I am at this point.
 
My scout squad's got maybe 4k round through it. Except for the flakomatic paint job on the stock, you'd think it was new.
 
My 104XXX SA of 1998 vintage has given me good service. I have only used it heavily in the last couple of years (I like my M1s). I am up to 2K rounds now. In Guard-sponsored combat rifle matches it has been fired continually in heavy rain and most recently in Sandbox-like heat and blowing dust. Just pulled it out of the action to install a Smith Enterprises scope mount and inspected it; there is no excess wear anywhere; rubbing and polishing, but no more.

And FWIW I have a certain amount of experience with the genuine M14 and "a few" M1 Garands.

The more GI an SA can be the better; but anything it needs can be made right at a time of your choosing if indeed it needs doing. Even if it is a bit of a work in progress it's a fine thing to do.

Somewhere along the line see if you can find a CMP highpower clinic. You will have a blast and enjoy an M1A even more when you get it.
 
You have real good taste in rifles.
I honestly believe that anything else will be a disappointment to you.

I think you also made good decisions with your SKS and your Mossberg: they are inexpensive guns, but they are good solid dependable guns that will probably last several lifetimes.
 
I second the LRB recommendation! Great receiver and USGI parts - will hold or increase in value. Expect to pay ~$2000.

You can build on a LRB barreled action, but it will cost the same or more with all the nice mods (NM trigger, NM cylinder, NM guide rod, nice sights, stock, bedding, scope mount, optic, etc..) - up to ~$3000+

You can pick up a used Springfield Armory Inc in the ~1000-1300 range - or go new for ~1300-1600.

M1A/M14 are great. I love mine. I saved, bought parts, and then had Warbirds Custom Guns http://www.warbirdscustomguns.com/ build mine up (check it out here:) http://www.warbirdscustomguns.com/M14-M1A.htm
its about the 4th rifle down (camo job with closeup of muzzle). Its built with LRB receiver, USGI parts, SEI lock, Sadlak guide, NM mods, ARMS mount w/guide. USGI parts are drying up fast and are commanding a premium price.

So are they any less durable than the real-deal M14? The rifle design has been combat proven in the late 50's and is a desired platform for certain scenarios in our current engagements in Iraq and Afganistan. I have never had a failure on mine so far (~1000 rnds) and it makes a statement down range with that .30 cal bullet. There is definitely an impact difference between a 55 gr. .233 and the .30 cal - kind of like a clink and a clang. Recoil is moderate to slight - the gas system and op rod soaks it all up. Takes maybe a 1/2-3/4 second longer for follow up shots than with an AR. (that is with irons as compared to an AR with Aimpoint at rifle training with timed enguagements) I have sometimes had my fingers in the way of the op rod when cycling and it engaged into battery with no prob. The reciever, op rod and bolt are heavy duty - Its a 9# rifle, so it weighs as much as like an AR with all the goodies attached. Mags are definetely heavier and it roughly equates to about carrying 1/2 the ammo capacity.

The picture you see advertised for SAI is marketing. I have no doubt that the rifle can perform in its advertised condition, but it is also somewhat glorified, and I doubt that you would ever subject your particular weapon to those conditions unless your life depended upon it (ie: you could die at any moment). SAI has a great warranty (lifetime for the weapon), and I know some have had to use it. But the same can be said for many rifles and pistols.

There are some great choices out there. There are some new stock options like LAW762, McMillan, Sage, TROY, etc.. Choose wisely.
 
I have an older SA M1a, other than the receiver it is all USGI. This may not be the case with newer rifles. They can cost a bit to buy and it takes awhile to learn to what to look for, but finding a USGI rifle is worth doing. A well built M1a should last 10,000 rounds or more.
 
One of my only issues with this system is headspacing for buying a new bolt, or taking apart a bolt and adding new parts to it. As I understand, if you do either, you should check headspacing (adjust?) so it is in spec. Essentially most everything else as I can work and change out, without worrying too much about a bit of a surprise in my face.

Anyone can bring someone up to speed on do-it-yourself headspacing?
 
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