Duracoat/gun kote

[smalls]

In your case mac would strip the park off, aluminum oxide blast the rust off of it. Then re-park and gunkote it.

I currently have no rust. It just starts to after extended carrying or range days. I guess my acidic sweat mixed with the thin finish in some areas can be a problem.

I was under the impression that I was going to strip off the park and then apply the new finish, but I guess it makes sense that I would apply it over the park.

 

[Jaymo]

Why not just re-Parkerize it? Parkerizing holds oil well.

 

[smalls]

Because I'm not a huge fan of the finish, and I don't currently have a back up carry gun, so sending it off is a no-go. And I haven't looked at pricing to re-park it, but I can only imagine it costing more than the $50 it is to GK it myself.

 

[Sam1911]

Yeah, getting it reparkerized will cost a little more than that, and you likely would have to send it off.

You do want to get all the rust out and super-duper degrease it before you do the GunKote steps.

(Remember, go THIIIIIIIIN! GK likes being crazy think, not heavy coats. Do a lot of testing with the airbrush to make sure you've got the spray even and, did I mention THIN?)

 

[smalls]

Very thin, got it . Thanks for the tip.

What do you recommend for degreasing?

 

[Sam1911]

Well, I usually use a combination of things. Simple green (or other heavy duty commercial degreaser), then I often run a last wash down with acetone through the airbrush. Handle with gloves after that.

However, I think KG has their own degreaser, too. Check their website.

 

[bainter1212]

Check out John Norrel's Moly Resin. Basically the same thing as KG.

 

[smalls]

Check out John Norrel's Moly Resin. Basically the same thing as KG.

What's different, or better or worse about it than GK?

 

[bainter1212]

What's different, or better or worse about it than GK?

Haven't used gunkote......but they both require preheating and an airbrush for application. So far, on the jobs I have used Moly Resin on it has proven very durable and so far won't rust.

I did one small part that I didn't prep correctly, and it didn't take very well. I will say that proper metal prep is the key to any spray on finish. A molecule of oil or a ghost of a fingerprint will ruin the work.

If your gun isn't parkerized, you'll have to spend hours bead blasting the metal. Any of these finishes will adhere the best to a parkerized surface.