duracoated 1911

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colbyjack

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well got my new gun duracoated. i went with desert mint on the frame. he also added a few colors to the grips to give a camo pattern. heres a pic, what do ya think?

duracoat003.jpg

duracoat002.jpg

duracoat001.jpg

-chris
 
Duracoat: Is that a Tennifer / Melonite type finish?If so, I wonder why there aren't a lot more 1911s so coated!

As to the Desert Mint ... well, my grandmother had a Cadillac Coupe de Ville that color (not the camo part, though), and I really like the look of the slide.

timothy
 
i think duracoat is a type of epoxy paint, im not sure though.

the side is just the factory black, and i used a white crayon to color in the lettering. cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, rubbed in crayon. then used alcohol to clean it up. when i was done i warmed it up with a hair dryer to make the wax kinda lay flat. oiled it down and no problems, ive had the RRA logo on my AR done since thanksgiving and it looks the same as the day i did it. cheap easy way to add a touch to the gun. -chris
 
No, duracoat is nothing like a tennifer type of finish. But, it is an easy and inexpensive way to refinish a gun.
 
iirc, there are more durable spray-on finishes than duracoat, but for the life of me I can't recall which brands they are. There is a LOT of information on this over at arfcom...
 
The color is nice, but the rubber finger grooves, the slam pad, the mag well, and the arched mainspring housing kinda make it look like a fat-bottomed girl.

But hey, fat bottomed girls make the rockin' world go 'round.
 
It does kind of look like a fat bottomed girl but a dead sexy one at that!

I really like the lettering and the grips. The first time I saw digital camo I threw up in my mouth a little but I like it alot now.

edited to add. HEY! That the weakest 45 I've ever seen! It didn't even DENT the paper! :neener:
 
What does prepping to apply it to SS entail?
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The recommended prep for duracoat is a light bead blast using 120 grit . This makes for better coating adhesion. It is not absolutely a necessity that it be bead blasted but for best long tern results I think I would follow that advise. (along with very good degreasing prior to finishing)

I have their Instructional CD and plan on doing a Duracoat project soon. It is an epoxy paint finish (non-bake) and can be done in something like 70 + standard colors or can be mixed to any color you want. They also put out kits that include the CD , airbrush, propellant, paint, hardner, etc.
 
What about aluminum? I imagine that would be do-able as well.
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From them : " Ideal for use on all parts of a firearm, including ferrous metals, alloys, synthetics, and wood "
 
sure do like that gun

I've got a spray n' baked finish on my springer and I love it. And yes, the spray ons will stick to anything with a little tooth, especially parkerizing. (no need for your mil-specs and RIA's to be that color forever!) Another thing. Colby, where did you find that grip safety? I love it and want one.
 
local gun shop, i think it came from brownells. then he had to fit it to the gun.

im going to the shop today, ill see if he remembers. -chris
 
Duracoat will stick to anything. They even did a t-shirt.
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I'VE done a fews T-Shirts as well. Not on purpose.


I've duracoated two AK-47's, a Saiga 308, and a FAL. Duracoat is very durable but you will get a much stronger coat if you bake the firearm for 2 hours at 120 degrees after coating. They say you don't have to, but trust me-- you will want to.

I've also read that Duracoat sticks exceptionally well to parkerized firearms-- but you will use quite a bit more. I know it sticks to AK powder coat nicely.

Make sure you go in light, even coats. If you get in a hurry and get too thick, your gonna get runs.


-- John
 
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