Easiest way to clean off cosmoline?
- Thread starter LKB3rd
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Hk91-762mm
Member
Some may object to this but the absolute best way to get cosmoline off is to disassemble, take it outside out away from everything get a bucket and a rag and give it a good bath in gasoline.
It will melt it right off...........guaranteed.
Or buy a couple of cans of brake cleaner and blast it off with that.
Have done it more than a few times. Just use your common sense.
Exactly what I do--and it works great-just do away from any ignition scorce!
It will melt it right off...........guaranteed.
Or buy a couple of cans of brake cleaner and blast it off with that.
Have done it more than a few times. Just use your common sense.
Exactly what I do--and it works great-just do away from any ignition scorce!
thebaldguy
Member
I used carb cleaner, Hoppe's, lots of rags, and lots of elbow grease.
Don't forget to disassemble the bolt to clean that out too.
Don't forget to disassemble the bolt to clean that out too.
Sir Aardvark
Member
Here's a good thread from 2005:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=125959
Cabinetman gave some good hints:
"The truth about Cosmo cleaning is that you're only dealing with the very surface of the stock when using any cleaning agent. If exposed long enough, cosmo will soak to the core of the stock. If you don't believe me, look at these old stocks which were ruined and not retrievable.
When cosmo gets that deep and you only clean the surface, eventualy it will precipitate right out as soon as the stock gets warm.
So, cleaning the surface with caustic stuff won't do very much. I won't use any lye-based materials. It's really not doing anything more than a good solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner will do and you're not using any water. Water is the enemy of any wood....especially old stocks.
So, heating the stocks in black plastic bags with kitty litter in the sun works as do 'heating tubes" or oven bakes as some have mentioned. The goal is to draw as much oil as possible to the surface. Since it's warmer outside than in, the colder oil will flow to the surface and get absorbed by the litter. Keep doing that as long as it comes out. Truthfully, you will NOT get it all out.
After you've heated the stock, clean the surface with acetone or lacquer thinner and let it sit until all of it is evaporated. The stock will appear much lighter. DON'T use mineral spirits. It's too oily and will only slow down the process.
When the stock is finally ready to refinish, you can dye back any color that's missing. Cosmo tends to neutralize the pigment if left long enough. After coloring with an alcohol based dye, the next step is important. I recommend that you shoot it with a coat of shellac. Spray shellac from a can is fine. Shellac is impervious to oil and will seal in any remaining cosmo. Hang the stock and shoot it twice with complete but light coats of shellac. Then sand just the finish lightly with some stearated (lubricated) sanding paper....220 works great. Finally go ahead and finish the stock with either oil or shellac depending on the original finish. When you're done, you can then burnish the finished surface with some 0000 steel wool dipped in oil (never use steel wool dry!) . That will produce a very authentic looking finish in either case unless you want a really shiney stock.
Never, ever, bath a stock in anything. It will absorb anything you bath it in and I've heard of many cases where gasoline or keroscene was used and the stocks become "water logged" with those items as they replace the cosmo.
Cosmo is a bugger but it can be mitigated with these suggestions and you can reproduce a great, authentic finish using modern dyes and finishes.
Rome"
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=125959
Cabinetman gave some good hints:
"The truth about Cosmo cleaning is that you're only dealing with the very surface of the stock when using any cleaning agent. If exposed long enough, cosmo will soak to the core of the stock. If you don't believe me, look at these old stocks which were ruined and not retrievable.
When cosmo gets that deep and you only clean the surface, eventualy it will precipitate right out as soon as the stock gets warm.
So, cleaning the surface with caustic stuff won't do very much. I won't use any lye-based materials. It's really not doing anything more than a good solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner will do and you're not using any water. Water is the enemy of any wood....especially old stocks.
So, heating the stocks in black plastic bags with kitty litter in the sun works as do 'heating tubes" or oven bakes as some have mentioned. The goal is to draw as much oil as possible to the surface. Since it's warmer outside than in, the colder oil will flow to the surface and get absorbed by the litter. Keep doing that as long as it comes out. Truthfully, you will NOT get it all out.
After you've heated the stock, clean the surface with acetone or lacquer thinner and let it sit until all of it is evaporated. The stock will appear much lighter. DON'T use mineral spirits. It's too oily and will only slow down the process.
When the stock is finally ready to refinish, you can dye back any color that's missing. Cosmo tends to neutralize the pigment if left long enough. After coloring with an alcohol based dye, the next step is important. I recommend that you shoot it with a coat of shellac. Spray shellac from a can is fine. Shellac is impervious to oil and will seal in any remaining cosmo. Hang the stock and shoot it twice with complete but light coats of shellac. Then sand just the finish lightly with some stearated (lubricated) sanding paper....220 works great. Finally go ahead and finish the stock with either oil or shellac depending on the original finish. When you're done, you can then burnish the finished surface with some 0000 steel wool dipped in oil (never use steel wool dry!) . That will produce a very authentic looking finish in either case unless you want a really shiney stock.
Never, ever, bath a stock in anything. It will absorb anything you bath it in and I've heard of many cases where gasoline or keroscene was used and the stocks become "water logged" with those items as they replace the cosmo.
Cosmo is a bugger but it can be mitigated with these suggestions and you can reproduce a great, authentic finish using modern dyes and finishes.
Rome"
loneviking
Member
Best stuff is either brake cleaner, or if it's really thick, 80/20 Biodiesel but DON'T get it on any plastic or wood. Biodiesel is one of the best solvents going. Gasoline works well and I've never had any problems with it going 'boom'!
esmith
Member
I highly suggest you do not use gas to get the cosmo off. For obvious reasons as well.
WD 40 worked for me as did brake cleaner.
WD 40 worked for me as did brake cleaner.
fluffy
Member
lacquer thinner is way stronger than mineral spirits.the only way to go.
mainmech48
Member
Plain ol' kerosene or diesel fuel is a whole heckuva lot less hazardous than gasoline and is also less likely to strip the wood finish.
It's less volatile ( no small consideration in hot weather!) and has a higher flash point than gas.
I put about a quart into a large coffee can and work from it. A couple of old brushes, the issue cleaning gear and a bunch of rags and I'm good to go.
If you have access to an air compressor it's a real plus. You can blow any residual solvent out of all the nooks and crannies, which saves a lot of time and elbow grease (sorry, couldn't help it), not to mention rags.
It's less volatile ( no small consideration in hot weather!) and has a higher flash point than gas.
I put about a quart into a large coffee can and work from it. A couple of old brushes, the issue cleaning gear and a bunch of rags and I'm good to go.
If you have access to an air compressor it's a real plus. You can blow any residual solvent out of all the nooks and crannies, which saves a lot of time and elbow grease (sorry, couldn't help it), not to mention rags.
We've used Coleman gas which works great on things like bolts without having to tear them down. Obviously safety precautions are required when using anything flammable. It should also be a no-brainer to only use flammable solvents on metal parts, not on anything that can absorb them.
My RPK still leaches cosmo from the front handguard every time I take it to the range. I guess the bump firing heats it up a bit!
My RPK still leaches cosmo from the front handguard every time I take it to the range. I guess the bump firing heats it up a bit!
Brian Dale
Member
Thanks, Sir Aardvark. Cabinetman knows more about refinishing stocks than I will probably ever know.
Gasoline belongs in my car, not on my guns, on my skin or in my lungs.
Y'all are wearing eye protection while using solvents and while using compressed air, aren't you? Good.
Gloves will keep stuff from being absorbed through your skin and your liver will thank you.
Gasoline belongs in my car, not on my guns, on my skin or in my lungs.
Y'all are wearing eye protection while using solvents and while using compressed air, aren't you? Good.
Gloves will keep stuff from being absorbed through your skin and your liver will thank you.
Jeff F
Member
A note on gasoline, I believe the Feds say its against the law to use gas for any use other then a motor vehicle fuel. Also to put it in an unapproved container.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
It is also one of the most hazardous volatile solvents available to consumers.
About as unsafe as using gasoline.
I recommended mineral spirits for final clean-up because you have to be really trying to set it on fire & blow yourself up.
rcmodel
woodfiend
Member
Brake cleaner, works like a charm. We have used it on Yugo M48's, Yugo SKS, Mosin Nagants.
Elza
Member
Amen, brother!! I’d sooner use gasoline and I wouldn’t use gasoline on a bet!
Personally, I use diesel. Unless you do something really, really stupid it is safe and quite effective.
Neocode
Member
Engine degreaser on the metal parts, and rinses off with water... works really well.
DrDeFab
Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2005
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Rifle Stock - Ur Doin It Wrong.
But seriously... this SKS had the most cosmo I have ever seen. The barrel was completely plugged, and I scraped off a good half pound before washing.
Just add Dawn, 20 minutes on low heat (below boil, say 160 degrees,) flip, repeat. Small parts are in there too, and the wood was next, after changing water.
Dry and wipe down metal parts with oil immediately when done.
Let the stock dry well (I waited 72 hours) before refinishing.
No hassle, easy clean up, no fumes, very happy with results.
But seriously... this SKS had the most cosmo I have ever seen. The barrel was completely plugged, and I scraped off a good half pound before washing.
Just add Dawn, 20 minutes on low heat (below boil, say 160 degrees,) flip, repeat. Small parts are in there too, and the wood was next, after changing water.
Dry and wipe down metal parts with oil immediately when done.
Let the stock dry well (I waited 72 hours) before refinishing.
No hassle, easy clean up, no fumes, very happy with results.
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