EDC Folder and Serrations

[Ringer]

Lot's of long posts in this thread so I admit not reading everything. For the $100 price point I really like Benchmade Griptillian or Mini Griptillian depending on what blade length you prefer. No serrations unless you are cutting a lot of rope or something. In that case I'd go with a knife more specific for that purpose.

 

[Noah]

Yea the Endura is a good knife, one I'd recommend. The Delica and Native were too small for my hands and I got rid of them but the Endura is bigger and feels better to me.

Just don't stab yourself in the leg.*

Sorry Noah!

Yeah.... Writing that post on my Endura brought that back to mind and inspired me to write about it...

 

[Noah]

Also I've carried both combo edge (serrated) and plain edge Enduras, the combo edge was occasionally very useful for starting rough cuts, like rubber, tubing, wood, stuff like that. But for the most part I hated them, near the base of the blade is where I like to do a lot of my cutting- slicing and push cutting, not stuff I liked the serrations for. And I have gotten much, much better at sharpening plain edged blades since I last carried a combo edge one. I don't hate combo edges, for a hard use working knife one might be better in some situations. I prefer plain edged knives for EDC though.

 

[Nighteyes]

Get one with serrations. I can't imagine why so many folks recommend against them.

Bensdad,

I don't want you to think that I'm arguing with you here; I'm not. Each of us has his/her own opinion, and each is just as valid as the other. I just thought I'd answer your indirect question from my viewpoint.

First, I agree that blade serrations ARE very useful for some operations. However, those operations are limited. Beginning in the early 1980's it has been my personal experience that, for everyday use, serrations get in the way more than they help. For example, try to sharpen a pencil (or any other piece of wood) with a serrated blade. Especially if the serrations are near the handle, it is extremely difficult to do.

I also found their usefulness in outdoor situations (camping, backpacking, fieldcraft, etc.) to be just as limited. Using a serrated blade, try carving out/tuning the trigger for a Figure Four snare/deadfall trigger, or making a spoon, or creating a fire-set, or just about anything other than quick ragged cuts through rope or vines, etc.

As the old saying goes, "Form Follows Function." WHAT something is supposed to do (the function or functions) will determine its shape, composition, etc. (the form). If a knife blade's primary function is to make quick ragged cuts, be they through rope or wire or packing tape or steak, then serrations are a viable option. If smooth, precise and specific cuts are needed, they are not.

Consider the fact that a properly sharpened "regular" blade will cut through rope or wire or packing tape or steak just as quickly as a serrated blade. Now you understand why I don't recommend a serrated blade. But that's just my two-hundredths of a dollar. Whether you agree or disagree is, obviously, your call.

Regards as always,

-- Nighteyes

 

[GLOOB]

semi serrated?

http://www.amazon.com/MTECH-USA-XTR...&qid=1389210654&sr=8-3&keywords=mtech+extreme

I stumbled across this one, the other day. I am not at all sure the "step" in the blade is practical in any way, but I imagine it might help to start a cut in rope or tough material.

The only serrated knife I own is a bread knife that came in a set. And I use a plain blade to cut bread. I know there's a benefit to serrated knives. It depends on what you cut, and how much you cut before you sharpen. A lot of us here don't mind keeping a knife sharp between uses, so serrations aren't particularly helpful.

Some of the stainless steels with large carbides take a toothier edge. And you can also experiment with coarser sharpening grits followed only by a light honing for specific tasks.

 

[Sam Cade]

I am not at all sure the "step" in the blade is practical in any way, but I imagine it might help to start a cut in rope or tough material.

The junky Mtech is aping the Tom Brown "Tracker".



The straight portion of the blade is for carving. The "step" (which Mr.Brown calls a "quarter rounder") is for rounding corners and use as a gut hook.

 

[DDeegs]

I'm gonna go with the Benchmade Griptilion, I have about a 1/2 dozen Benchmades all are quality, you can get the griptilion with or without serrations, i prefer without, however if you cut a lot of fibrous material serrations would come in handy. YMMV

Dan

 

[mdauben]

I was looking at CRKT's website and came across the m16-14 and m21 lines. I'm not sure of the benefits of a Traditional / Pointed blade vs a Tonto. Can someone educate me?

The "american" or "modern" tanto blade is very strong, but the shape (IMO) does not lend itself to most EDC blade taskes as well as a more traditional drop or clip point.

Also, I was looking at Serrated knives. I see no reason not to choose a model that include them. However the Veff design seems it might chip and break easier do to the thinness of the serrations. Am I correct in assuming so?

Not familar with "Veff" serrations, but I've used Spyderco serrated knives for years and find them very useful and not especially fragile. I do prefer partially serrated blades for EDC though, to get the best of both worlds.

 

[GLOOB]

The junky Mtech

Was a time I was of the same mind. I once watched a video review of an Opinel, and then the guy pulled out some knives that were in the same price range but "better built." These included a bunch of S&W and Mtech "junk." I laughed out loud.

Recently, I dug out a big old "Rough Use Knife" I got from CTD for 10 bucks a long ways back. I never really used it, cuz the grind was terribly obtuse. But in the intervening years, I had purchased a belt sander. Right on the blade was the "Mtech" logo and "440 stainless." Well that knife surprised the heck out of me after regrinding and sharpening.

I now have a few Mtech knives. Their 440 is perfectly good blade steel, IMO. The blades I have are very chip and roll resistant, and they hold their edge well. In fact, I have yet to roll or chip an Mtech edge, and I put the same kind of edge on them as the rest of my blades - a thin one. They don't take quite as fine an edge as a fine-carbide Sandvik, maybe. But I have no problem putting on an edge that will peel hairs and still hold up to flat out abuse.

There was a time I spent my dollars on CRKT, Kershaw, even Benchmade. One of my favorite knives ever was an early Gerber prototype of the Applegate folder. It had a beautiful full flat grind! I dunno how many they made, but it was very cool, and I spent $100.00 on it back in the 90's. I've discovered that knives like that tend to grow legs if you use them for EDC and don't keep good track of them. I've also discovered that with the right edge geometry, there's almost no such thing as a bad knife.

Today, I own only one modern liner lock, and my most expensive knife (was a gift) is a Maxam! The blade is stamped only "China," lol. No clue the steel. I suppose it was so expensive because of the handmade handle, and the fact it was sold at a tourist trap. Took a while to grind a good edge on it, but it works just as good as any of my other knives, now.

 

[Valkman]

I've discovered that knives like that tend to grow legs if you use them for EDC and don't keep good track of them.

Yep, I lost a $425 Strider that way. Man that hurt! When the guys at Strider found out they sent me a new one, what Customer Service that was, but I never again have been able to carry it. I will carry a Benchmade though. $100 I can handle for some reason, maybe because I have 3 or 4 of them, but losing that expensive knife about killed me.

 

[Inazone]

Recently, I dug out a big old "Rough Use Knife" I got from CTD for 10 bucks a long ways back. I never really used it, cuz the grind was terribly obtuse. But in the intervening years, I had purchased a belt sander. Right on the blade was the "Mtech" logo and "440 stainless." Well that knife surprised the heck out of me after regrinding and sharpening.

I now have a few Mtech knives. Their 440 is perfectly good blade steel, IMO. The blades I have are very chip and roll resistant, and they hold their edge well. In fact, I have yet to roll or chip an Mtech edge, and I put the same kind of edge on them as the rest of my blades - a thin one. They don't take quite as fine an edge as a fine-carbide Sandvik, maybe. But I have no problem putting on an edge that will peel hairs and still hold up to flat out abuse.

I have one of those CTD "Rough Use" knives. Heck, I actually have two because I thought that the drop point model was such a steal that I ordered the spear point version later on. I was expecting truly generic Chinese mystery builds and felt that my money was well spent, considering what the going rate was if you ordered the same MTech knives from Amazon . . . to say nothing of the MSRP many sellers charge.

My experience with MTech fixed blades has been very positive - I just bought an MX-8063 that I'm very impressed with - but their folders have been a mixed bag. Like you, I haven't rolled or chipped the edge on an MTech, but the blade centering and locking mechanics have been questionable and difficult if not impossible to repair. That said, if I'm looking for a new knife and don't want to spend collector-level money on a beater, I'll check MTech's offerings.

 

[CaliCoastie]

me? i have big hands and the best knife i have found is a sog x-ray vision(the old one with ast-34 steel). for me that knife with the clip positioned where it is and not the new style(coming out of the end) is like a glove. It has all the stuff that people seem to not like, tanto blade with 1/3 serrations. i have used that kinfe for the last 12 or so years, every day, i find the flats of the tanto nice to have for a multitude of items, the serations are worth their salt when needed. and i love the axis lock, quickest opening/closing i have ever used. Find what fits. that would be my advice.