EDC Knife

[rust collector]

A few of many options from searching "serrated" on BladeHQ site:
Boker kalashnikov serrated https://www.bladehq.com/item--Boker-Mini-Kalashnikov-Automatic--10761
Honey Badger large serrated claw https://www.bladehq.com/item--Honey-Badger-Knives-Large-Claw--104873
Kershaw Blur (US Made, solid!) https://www.bladehq.com/item--Kershaw-Blur-1670TBLKST--36

Caution is advised with so-called strap cutter handles with the slot cut in. Most are limiting in the angle of access, and easily clogged.

 

[Speedo66]

A lot of folks, myself included, find the Kershaw Leek to be a good EDC knife.

Assisted opening, slim, light, inexpensive, and it can be had with a partially serrated edge.

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

seems like you guys like the bar lock type knives, any reason why?

Fast too open, fast to close

That's the reason

 

[sparkyv]

I concur that the serrated blade for cutting through seat belts is generally preferred over a straight blade. However, because sharpening a serrated blade is challenging for most and a PIA for me, I carry straight blades, but keep them sharp, very sharp. The knives I carry will make short work of cutting through most natural and synthetic strap/rope material.

I will dispute that serrated blades are "nothing special." Many applications where a serrated blade is preferred. My son is an engine boss on a wildland fire crew. Insists on a serrated knife in case he has to cut a rolled-out hose for a rapid departure from a fire zone. Serrated blades are superior for cutting nylon or hemp ropes. Rodeo hands and cowboys here carry serrated blades to cut lariats or leather horse gear in case of a wreck and subsequent entanglement. I personally don't carry a serrated knife, but I believe they are superior to plain edge for some applications including cutting seat belts.

Serrated is generally better for ropes, straps, webbing. IF it’s sharp. Once a serrated gets dull, as alluded to before, people don’t know what to do with them.

Indeed!

A lot of folks, myself included, find the Kershaw Leek to be a good EDC knife.

Assisted opening, slim, light, inexpensive, and it can be had with a partially serrated edge.

 

[Axis II]

A few of many options from searching "serrated" on BladeHQ site:
Boker kalashnikov serrated https://www.bladehq.com/item--Boker-Mini-Kalashnikov-Automatic--10761
Honey Badger large serrated claw https://www.bladehq.com/item--Honey-Badger-Knives-Large-Claw--104873
Kershaw Blur (US Made, solid!) https://www.bladehq.com/item--Kershaw-Blur-1670TBLKST--36

Caution is advised with so-called strap cutter handles with the slot cut in. Most are limiting in the angle of access, and easily clogged.

You mentioned the Blur was “solid”. Used to have one, laid it in the tray on the end table one day and it disappeared. Pretty sure a sticky finger kid took it but i loved that knife. Thought about replacing it with a Blur but also wanted other opinions.

 

[Axis II]

Fast too open, fast to close

That's the reason

Not being funny but how is it any faster than a liner lock? Never used a bar lock and none around here to try.

 

[theotherwaldo]

Kershaw Blur and a small Bear and Son Executive.
Two is one, one is none... .

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

Not being funny but how is it any faster than a liner lock? Never used a bar lock and none around here to try.

Liner locks you have to put your thumb "in harms way" to push the lock out of the way then carefully re-fold the blade.

With an axis you pull the stud down (located on the side of the knife) then you can flick the blade closed.

YouTube probably has demos for you

 

[hso]

like the bar lock type knives, any reason why

More reliable therefore safer.

 

[hso]

how is it any faster than a liner lock?

It isn't any faster to open.

 

[P89DCSS]

Not being funny but how is it any faster than a liner lock? Never used a bar lock and none around here to try.

Never heard of it before this thread. Here's a video that shows someone using a bar lock Kershaw in the first few moments of video:

 

[Valkman]

I've carried one of these in my truck for a long time. It's the only serrated knife I own.

Spyderco Rescue 79 mm Lockback Knife Black FRN (3.125" Satin Serr) C45SBK - Blade HQ

 

[Boattale]

More reliable therefore safer.

faster, stronger, safer for multi reasons.

 

[redneck]

I find serrations tedious to sharpen but not impossible.

I EDC a plain edged fixed blade and it will cut nylon web or rope fairly well if you are in a position where you can get a good pull on it but it doesn't grab all on its own in a slashing type cut. If I am roping colts or any kind of work like that that involves nylon lines or ropes with a high chance of getting tangled I grab a serrated knife out of my truck and stick it in a back pocket.

The current choice for that is a Byrd Cara Rescue 2 fully serrated. It has a sheepsfoot blade making the tip a bit safer in an emergency but came wickedly sharp out of the box and has a nice action and sturdy lockup.The texture of the handle has a nice bite to it as well. I do not use it for daily tasks, it stays in the truck for emergencies or gets grabbed when I'm working colts or stuff like that. Awfully hard to beat for $40.
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Car...?keywords=byrd+rescue+2&qid=1684273181&sr=8-3

 

[SteadyD]

Sharpening serrations on the Spyderco Sharpmaker is quite easy. It can be time consuming depending on the steel type and if you are reprofiling the bevel

 

[Jimfern]

Kershaw makes great knives that will meet your price point. If you don't mind used and not assisted, you can find Benchmade Griptilians on ebay below $100 b/c the 1/2 serrated blades don't do well on the used market.

 

[I like star wars]

I like to edc a Boker mini Kalashnikov

 

[RA40]

I was gifted this knife a few days back. It is a friction folder (It has a spring detent for open and closed) with a blade in AUS-8 and ti body. I thought it was aluminum since this knife retails at about $30 but when I found out it was Ti, I dipped it to anodize it. It cuts pretty decently and is in carry rotation. I'll likely drill it for a thumb stud for one hand opening.

 

[Mk-211]

I like the dark blue and black.

Reminds me of my skallywag.

 

[hso]

any reason why?

It is a very strong, ergonomic, but ugly lock compared to others. If you overlook the looks of it, it is superior in the important aspects of strength and ease of use.

 

[e rex]

The knife that rides in my pocket everyday year around is a Case full size Stockman. Three sharp blades. I've never had to cut a seatbelt but the last deer I shot I'd forgotten my Buck 110 so I field dressed said deer with the sheep's foot blade of the Case.

 

[Plano11]

The marbled cf on the elementum was done very well

That said, if you have a tiny bit more to throw into the price, imo the Buck Sprint is done much better in many ways

If you ever needed a warranty Buck has the best service. Also, I prefer the s30v to the d2, materials have a nicer finish, the cf handles are proud to the liners, and the full edge with no finger choil all give it the lead over the elementum.

 

[RA40]

I like that bar type lock like Benchmade has for their "Axis" system. That spring engagement is positive and the way it is integrated allows good contact on the blade.

Linerlocks and frame locks if that lock geometry is off and a closing pressure is exerted on the spline causing the lock to slip, that's not a fun day for the finger. In general do users tend to exert those types of closing forces on the back spline of the knife in use? I can see thrusting yet for typical bevel type cutting tasks the cutting force doesn't bring unexpected blade closure.

 

[ejfalvo]

Spyderco Tenacious or Helle Raud M

 

[Tilos]

I have owned/carried serrated knives but never was impressed with any performance advantage of it.
Now, I sharpen standard edged knives differently to get what I call a micro-serrated edge.

I never go beyond the roughest stone with my Lanske sharpener and stroke it straight off the edge, index the stone over one width of the stone, and stroke it straight off the edge again and repeat this for the entire length of the blade.
So, this is the opposite direction of Lanske's directions but creates micro serrations perpendicular to the blade; sort of like a steak knife...

I never shave with my pocketknife and see no need to sharpen it to do that (shave-my-arm) as proof of a "good" edge.
I have tested knives sharpened this way (micro-serrated) on rope and webbing and they cut easier than a knife "shave-your-arm" sharpened.
Try it, you have nothing to lose.
jmo,
.
Edit: my EDC Kershaw Link 1776 flipper:

with some added jibbing:

.