mikep99
Member
Alright experts, state how you clean your babies with tricks from the trade
Expert Handgun Cleaning
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Jim PHL
Member
I'm not an expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
I actually get quite sloppy with an old toothbrush and liberal amounts of liquid Breakfree CLP. Scrub away then wipe down with a piece of an old t-shirt. Usually follow-up with flitz or mag wheel polish on my stainless guns.
I actually get quite sloppy with an old toothbrush and liberal amounts of liquid Breakfree CLP. Scrub away then wipe down with a piece of an old t-shirt. Usually follow-up with flitz or mag wheel polish on my stainless guns.
InfernoMDM
Member
- Joined
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- 147
A nifty trick I took away from my infantry buddy - Get a quality shaveing cream aplicator. You can put oil, CLP, etc. This allows you to cover a large area easily to allow soaking. Also a great way to help prevent rusting. If you buy a cheap brush the little hairs may come out but are easily picked off.
I use hoppee 7 like a hippy wears tye dye. One thing I noticed is if you loose a q tip in the solution it will swell up masively in a day or two. I use my old hoppies bottle, put a few in a small amount and use them to apply massive dose to areas that are hard to get to.
Gun Scrubber is actually, break cleaner for your car. Instead of spending 5.53 you can get it for 99 cents. Note that the gun scrubber says it doesnt hurt blueing (unlike break cleaner), however it doesnt seem to hurt glocks, HK's, Walthers. At least what I tested so far. Neither product has done any noticable damage to any firearms I have personally seen.
Leaving a thin coat of oil helps prevent the adherince of the burnt powder to most surfaces. It will still stick on but is 10 times easier to clean off. I am not saying have oil drip off just a very thin coat really helps on the muzzle etc.
I use hoppee 7 like a hippy wears tye dye. One thing I noticed is if you loose a q tip in the solution it will swell up masively in a day or two. I use my old hoppies bottle, put a few in a small amount and use them to apply massive dose to areas that are hard to get to.
Gun Scrubber is actually, break cleaner for your car. Instead of spending 5.53 you can get it for 99 cents. Note that the gun scrubber says it doesnt hurt blueing (unlike break cleaner), however it doesnt seem to hurt glocks, HK's, Walthers. At least what I tested so far. Neither product has done any noticable damage to any firearms I have personally seen.
Leaving a thin coat of oil helps prevent the adherince of the burnt powder to most surfaces. It will still stick on but is 10 times easier to clean off. I am not saying have oil drip off just a very thin coat really helps on the muzzle etc.
LeonCarr
Member
Brake Cleaner instead of Gun Scrubber will save lots of money, and works as good or better. Also, Q-tips were meant for cleaning guns, not personal hygeine 
. They come in handy for lots of gun cleaning chores, especially in tight spaces.
If you shoot lead bullets alot, the copper Chore-Boy type pot scrubbers, cut into squares and wrapped around an old bore brush, will make fast work of safely removing lead fouling from barrels and revolver cylinders.
Lots of stuff from everyday life can be recylced into gun cleaning stuff. Old toothbrushes can be used to clean guns, and old t-shirts can be cut up into rags and cleaning patches.
Just my .02,
LeonCarr
. They come in handy for lots of gun cleaning chores, especially in tight spaces.If you shoot lead bullets alot, the copper Chore-Boy type pot scrubbers, cut into squares and wrapped around an old bore brush, will make fast work of safely removing lead fouling from barrels and revolver cylinders.
Lots of stuff from everyday life can be recylced into gun cleaning stuff. Old toothbrushes can be used to clean guns, and old t-shirts can be cut up into rags and cleaning patches.
Just my .02,
LeonCarr
mikep99
Member
Can you live with just gun oil and not have to deal with a scubber that has to break doen the accumaleted grit?
Jim101
Member
"like a hippy wears tye dye".................Love it
My wife found a bunch of new baby diapers at a garage sale, great to us, little of no lint. I use CLP,a good gun oil, Flitz to polish, a tooth brush to clean with and boxes of Q-Tips...I found an old tackle box at a garage sale and just keep everything in it....
Jim
My wife found a bunch of new baby diapers at a garage sale, great to us, little of no lint. I use CLP,a good gun oil, Flitz to polish, a tooth brush to clean with and boxes of Q-Tips...I found an old tackle box at a garage sale and just keep everything in it....
Jim
For my SW1911, I use FP-10 as a cleaner and protectant, Militec1 as a lubricant. Occaisionally I will use the Militec1 grease. Flitz polishes up the feedramp and barrel throat of my SW1911 like a mirror, and it cleans up the breachface really nicely. Right before I head for the range, I will go over the rails, barrel hood, slide locking lugs, and the I.D. of the barrel bushing with a drop or two of Militec1 on a Q-Tip. I cock the hammer and put one or two drops of Militec down on the crotch of the hammer. The heat of shooting the gun works the Militec1 into the pores of the metal, as a result of this, the gun always cycles 100%
dk-corriveau
Member
My normal routine for my .45 is as follows:
- After breaking down the gun, I start the barrel off with some Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner.
- I apply some MC25 cleaner/degreaser (Mil-Comm) to the slide and frame and wipe it clean with some paper towels.
- Returning to the barrel, I follow the Gunslick up with the standard patches/brush treatment with Otis bore cleanser.
- Once everything is clean, I hit the slide/frame with some TW-25b (Mil-Comm) lube and a small amount of gun oil on the action, barrel link, and the bushing.
This routine undergoes only minor changes from gun to gun, based on its action.
- After breaking down the gun, I start the barrel off with some Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner.
- I apply some MC25 cleaner/degreaser (Mil-Comm) to the slide and frame and wipe it clean with some paper towels.
- Returning to the barrel, I follow the Gunslick up with the standard patches/brush treatment with Otis bore cleanser.
- Once everything is clean, I hit the slide/frame with some TW-25b (Mil-Comm) lube and a small amount of gun oil on the action, barrel link, and the bushing.
This routine undergoes only minor changes from gun to gun, based on its action.
Treat my fire arms kinda like any other machine I own and they have a maintenance schedule
Every range trip or each time fired: Field strip, spray down with Rem Oil, wipe clean, relube, reassemble, wipe down with oil cloth, done.
Every 1000 rounds: Same as above, and add bore brushing and patching of barrel and chamber.
Once a year or every 5000 rounds: same as above, and add defouling barrel with JB bore cleaner and patching, detail strip and check for wear issues on springs and moving parts.
With some special cases all my weapons see this kind of routine
Every range trip or each time fired: Field strip, spray down with Rem Oil, wipe clean, relube, reassemble, wipe down with oil cloth, done.
Every 1000 rounds: Same as above, and add bore brushing and patching of barrel and chamber.
Once a year or every 5000 rounds: same as above, and add defouling barrel with JB bore cleaner and patching, detail strip and check for wear issues on springs and moving parts.
With some special cases all my weapons see this kind of routine
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
Clean guns are happy guns. Happy guns shoot better.
PinnedAndRecessed
member
- Joined
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Well, I've never been to a hangun. But I imagine after the perp has been certified dead by the attending physician, they probably just cut the rope. I don't think they reuse those ropes, do they?
Anyway, if the one who has just been hanged has family, the family probably takes the body for burial.
If no family, they probably just bury it in a cheap grave somewhere.
Joey101
Member
"Well, I've never been to a hangun. But I imagine after the perp has been certified dead by the attending physician, they probably just cut the rope. I don't think they reuse those ropes, do they?"
LMAO!!
LMAO!!
Lots of CLP and TLC
I use Kleen-Bore's version of CLP to clean the powder fouling. Shop towels work great for the larger areas and Q-Tips reach the crevices. Baked-in or caked-in fouling in areas such as the breech face usually requires the application of Hoppe's #9 and a stiff nylon brush. I try to avoid using solvents elsewhere, though, since over time the repeated application of CLP works its way into the pores of the metal or finish, making it very slick and smooth; solvents just strip this out. The other reason I prefer using Hoppe's on the breech face is because it is less likely to gum up the firing pin channel. I've heard good things about lead wipes and breech face crud, so I'm going to try using those.
One trick I've found just recently is using a blast of compressed air to force gunk out of the hard-to-reach areas. A word to the wise: Don't lean too close when you do this.
For the barrel, I use lots of Hoppe's, some judicious brushing, and yards and yards of patches mounted on a brass jag. I always finish up the barrel by runnning an oiled patch through on a puller, followed up by a dry patch to remove excess.
Finally, apply Tetra Grease to all worn areas with a saturated Q-Tip and buff until it appears dry. A drop of Tetra oil in each rail is a recent innovation, but I like the results. For their first trip to the range, though, I use a lot more lubrication on my guns.
After reassambly, the outside surfaces get polished with a silicone cloth. The entire process takes quite a while, but it's a labor of love.
I've got a question, though: My Kel-Tec P-32 has some nooks and crannies in the slide that are too tiny to be reached with a Q-Tip. Does anybody know of some applicator capable of swabbing out such miniscule recesses?
I use Kleen-Bore's version of CLP to clean the powder fouling. Shop towels work great for the larger areas and Q-Tips reach the crevices. Baked-in or caked-in fouling in areas such as the breech face usually requires the application of Hoppe's #9 and a stiff nylon brush. I try to avoid using solvents elsewhere, though, since over time the repeated application of CLP works its way into the pores of the metal or finish, making it very slick and smooth; solvents just strip this out. The other reason I prefer using Hoppe's on the breech face is because it is less likely to gum up the firing pin channel. I've heard good things about lead wipes and breech face crud, so I'm going to try using those.
One trick I've found just recently is using a blast of compressed air to force gunk out of the hard-to-reach areas. A word to the wise: Don't lean too close when you do this.
For the barrel, I use lots of Hoppe's, some judicious brushing, and yards and yards of patches mounted on a brass jag. I always finish up the barrel by runnning an oiled patch through on a puller, followed up by a dry patch to remove excess.
Finally, apply Tetra Grease to all worn areas with a saturated Q-Tip and buff until it appears dry. A drop of Tetra oil in each rail is a recent innovation, but I like the results. For their first trip to the range, though, I use a lot more lubrication on my guns.
After reassambly, the outside surfaces get polished with a silicone cloth. The entire process takes quite a while, but it's a labor of love.
I've got a question, though: My Kel-Tec P-32 has some nooks and crannies in the slide that are too tiny to be reached with a Q-Tip. Does anybody know of some applicator capable of swabbing out such miniscule recesses?
HighVelocity
Member
Here's one. I've got an old .357 that the guy I got it from apparently never shot anything but 38 out of it and wasn't very detailed in cleaning it. There is build up in the chambers that I cannot seem to get out. This causes the shell casings to stick in the chambers when shooting 357mag ammo.
I've tried, Hoppes #9, Gunscrubber and misc patches, brushes, boresnake etc.
I've tried, Hoppes #9, Gunscrubber and misc patches, brushes, boresnake etc.
Jim101
Member
Candiru,
Great post, picked up some good tips..It is a "Labor of Love" as you said, some guys can't stand to clean them, but, I find it rather relaxing and enjoy it.
I just bought a S & W 6906 (at a great price) from a guy that said he hadn't cleaned the gun in at least a year, he sold it cheap because he thought it was broke....Well, I took the whole gun apart and cleaned every inch of it with CLP then oiled the rails etc. with FP-10 and it works perfect, I even cleaned and polished the receiver with Flitz and it looks and shoots like a new gun...........
Jim
Great post, picked up some good tips..It is a "Labor of Love" as you said, some guys can't stand to clean them, but, I find it rather relaxing and enjoy it.
I just bought a S & W 6906 (at a great price) from a guy that said he hadn't cleaned the gun in at least a year, he sold it cheap because he thought it was broke....Well, I took the whole gun apart and cleaned every inch of it with CLP then oiled the rails etc. with FP-10 and it works perfect, I even cleaned and polished the receiver with Flitz and it looks and shoots like a new gun...........
Jim
MikeIsaj
Member
Scheduled maintenance, monthly or whenever fired.
After firing; Scub with hoppes, let soak for a few minutes, wipe dry and clean. Repeat the next day. Light coat of oil. Use a bore brush and stiff gun brush, lots of Q-tips for the tight spaces.
Monthly; Run a patch with hoppes and then run a dry patch. No wire brush on the monthly. Light oil and put away.
Tried lots of new and improved, nifty cleaning tricks, potions and gadgets. I keep coming back to hoppes, elbow grease and time.
After firing; Scub with hoppes, let soak for a few minutes, wipe dry and clean. Repeat the next day. Light coat of oil. Use a bore brush and stiff gun brush, lots of Q-tips for the tight spaces.
Monthly; Run a patch with hoppes and then run a dry patch. No wire brush on the monthly. Light oil and put away.
Tried lots of new and improved, nifty cleaning tricks, potions and gadgets. I keep coming back to hoppes, elbow grease and time.
Try This;
To clean the inside of the cylinder chambers on your revolver, buy the special, extra stiff bronze chamber brushes from Brownell's, which are specifically designed to clean chambers. To use, twist and push the brush through the chamber and even a badly leaded chamber will be cleaned out. http://www.brownells.com Chamber Brush, 38/357. #084-450-137 per three .
To clean the outside of the chamber of Stainless Revolvers Only, buy a Lead-Away type cloth at the gun store. This is a waxy-feeling yellow cloth that strips leading and carbon off cylinders and frames ASAP. The cloth can be cut up into patches and used to clean lead from bores and chambers. Do Not use Lead-Away cloth on a blued gun it WILL strip the bluing right off.
stevelyn
Member
MPro-7 to clean.
Break-Free CLP to recoat and relube.
Brownell's Action Lube Plus for parts that get grease.
Experimenting w/ Bullfrog for exterior rust protection.
Break-Free CLP to recoat and relube.
Brownell's Action Lube Plus for parts that get grease.
Experimenting w/ Bullfrog for exterior rust protection.
Brownell's also makes those chamber cleaning brushes in stainless steel. I buy them by the dozen.
They also sell a "scaler" which is a large sized dental pick type instrument It gets into places on your guns like a dental hygienist gets into your teeth. I would be lost without mine now.
Oh--and brew up your own bore cleaner: Ed's Red. You can make a gallon for what those cute little bottles of store-bought bore cleaner cost. Works every bit as well. A search engine will find the recipe.
They also sell a "scaler" which is a large sized dental pick type instrument It gets into places on your guns like a dental hygienist gets into your teeth. I would be lost without mine now.
Oh--and brew up your own bore cleaner: Ed's Red. You can make a gallon for what those cute little bottles of store-bought bore cleaner cost. Works every bit as well. A search engine will find the recipe.
MikeIsaj
Member
.357 carbon rings
This worked for me, thought it was an origional idea. Make sure it's a bronze brush, not stainless steel.
This worked for me, thought it was an origional idea. Make sure it's a bronze brush, not stainless steel.
"I've got a question, though: My Kel-Tec P-32 has some nooks and crannies in the slide that are too tiny to be reached with a Q-Tip. Does anybody know of some applicator capable of swabbing out such miniscule recesses?"
I used to keep some pipe cleaners on hand for those little places. Cheap, easy to find & worth a try.
I used to keep some pipe cleaners on hand for those little places. Cheap, easy to find & worth a try.
Peter M. Eick
Member
The only tips I can add are Mpro7 in the house where it is air conditioned makes a big difference in the experience.
Also, using the big air compressor to blast out the tight spots has helped a lot. Recognize that the compressed air has some residual water in it, so lube well.
Finally shop towels are great for general wipes and most of the cleaning. I use cloth patches now only for the barrel insides. Everything else get the shop towel treatment of paper towels.
Also, using the big air compressor to blast out the tight spots has helped a lot. Recognize that the compressed air has some residual water in it, so lube well.
Finally shop towels are great for general wipes and most of the cleaning. I use cloth patches now only for the barrel insides. Everything else get the shop towel treatment of paper towels.
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