Some Remington rolling blocks were converted to 16 gauge shotguns. This could only be done on the large #1 or 1 1/2 actions. The nose of the hammer was ground down and severely angled so the shotgun round just barely cleared, when loading the gun.
I have built two rolling block rifles from scratch, from blocks of steel. The first was a 45-70 which was proofed with a load developing 50,000 PSI. The other was in 30-06 and was proofed with a German 7.62 X 63 proof round, developing 85,000 PSI. Both guns were overbuilt compared to the originals. Thicker sidewalls on the actions, narrower breech blocks and hammers, and larger diameter pivot pins. All coil springs. There is a penalty for overbuilding....weight. Both guns weigh almost 11# The 45-70 action I machined from 1045 steel and the 06, from 4140. Both were heat treated to RC 40.
Rolling blocks have many advantages: They are stupid simple to operate and relatively cheap and easy to manufacture. They are rugged and reliable. But they have disadvantages as well. Pierce a primer and you will get a face full of gas. And they have possibly the S L O W E S T lock time of any rifle. It takes a long time for that big, heavy hammer to fall.
Rolling blocks can be enormously strong, but the strongest of all actions is probably a falling block, like a Ruger #1 I don't know how you could possibly blow one up short of loading the cartridge with Dynamite instead of gunpowder. The Stevens "favorite" and most of the other Stevens single shots were all pretty similar internally. None of them were particularly "strong" but all were more than adequately strong for the cartridges they were chambered in. The exception was the #44 1/2 action which was a true falling block. It is very strong and is highly prized ( and expensive ) today.
Sorry about the sideways pics, my puter is drunk.....again. The first pic is is the 45-70 The second has the 30-06 on the right. The last pic is the 06.