Finally found a good trimmer

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General Lee

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I have been doing .223 brass for a while now and I have never been able to find a great way to trim. The trimmer listed below has been working great for me. Its nice to have a trimmer that I can just hook up to a drill and hold the brass up to it to trim it easily. The trimmer indexes off the case shoulder which makes it a TON easier to trim without any guides. Just had to share this for those who cant afford or justify a $300 trimmer.

The only downside to the trimmer that I have found is that it needs to be chamfered after cutting. I am willing to take that extra step though for one tenth the cost of a pricey trimmer.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=127743

combined with http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=295771
 
Here's a question though, as I have been seeing lately more about trimming from the shoulder reference...

Should the trim length be measured from the head to mouth, or from the datum (shoulder area) to mouth? And, what difference does it make?

The Possum Hollow uses the datum as well as the Giraud trimmer (appears to).
 
Honestly I'm not sure. I just got a case that I had previously cut to the length I prefer. I loosened the allen screw and let the blade fall to the edge of case. I have cut several cases now and they all measure exactly the same. Very easy setup.
 
They do work very well, don't they? Quick, clean, and uniform. I resize and then trim. Do the deburring in batches. Outside first then switch it around and do all the insides. All you need to do is touch them to the tool. You don't want sharp cookie cutter ends on your brass.
 
I like the PH trimmer. I use one chucked in a lathe to trim cases. Yes, it indexes off the shoulder, but after sizing the shoulders are pretty uniform in relation to the base. I get very uniform lengths with the PH. Only thing better is a lot more money. (Giraud etc) Of course they deburr and chamfer at the same time aslo. That saves a lot of time.
 
Yes, it indexes off the shoulder, but after sizing the shoulders are pretty uniform in relation to the base.


We measure trim length from the base because it that is easy. However, for bottle necked cases, cartridge headspace is measured from the shoulder and how far the case neck goes up the throat is determined by where the case shoulder stops in the chamber.

I have absolutely no problems with trim lengths referenced off the shoulder, might in fact be the proper way to do it.
 
I agree completely, no big deal, and it does make it uniform on how far the neck reaches into the chamber (Excellent point, and important for world class accuracy), but the answer was aimed at the concern with the case lengths varying to much.

Also, the seater seats a bullet in relation to the base, not the shoulder. Consistent shoulder position in relation to the base helps consistent bullet jump, and that is determined by the consistency of the case to case structure and how much difference in springback they have from one another. One reason some target shooters like to anneal, to keep the cases consistent.

Good consistent shoulder position helps both the consistency of bullet jump, and how far the neck is into the chamber, which improves the consistency of when the bullet is released. Both important when looking for that last couple of thousandths on target.
 
Should the trim length be measured from the head to mouth, or from the datum (shoulder area) to mouth?
Datum-(shoulder)-to-neck distance is the reference for case trim/length since the shoulder determines how far the neck extends into the leade, The Giraud does this by design, but the overall length of a properly-resized case is just as good for all practical purposes.
 
I've been using the PH trimmer for .223 chucked in a 3/8" drill mounted in a vice for 3 or 4000 cases. Kind of a poor man's Giraud except the necks need chamfered. OAL is pretty consistent and for the price, it's an excellent tool.
 
Thanks for the review. I've been wanting to replace my Lyman Universal since a few weeks after I bought it. It works well enough I suppose, which is why I haven't made it a priority to replace it.
 
I'm just starting to reload for .223, and after a LOT of research on trimmers, I settled on the PH trimmer and the LE Wilson chamfer/debur tool. These, along with the PH power adapter, should make quick work of the case prep. :D
 
Anyone else sit with an electric drill in one hand, and the Lee cutter in the other? It works OK for .223, and case length is uniform. A little awkward until you get used to it.
 
The Forester trimmers are an EXCELENT trimmers! And, when used with a cordless drill, they can be very fast too.

Forester also has a trimmer base that works with a std. drill press, that uses all the std. Forester accessories......VERY handy.

DM
 
Anyone else sit with an electric drill in one hand, and the Lee cutter in the other? It works OK for .223, and case length is uniform. A little awkward until you get used to it.

That's how I do it most of the time with low volume stuff. Over 20 rounds, I go to the PH or my RCBS that I attached a drill motor to.
 
PH trimmer works great for my 30-30, but he had never made one before so it took an extra week. FL size, trim and crimp in the groove. OAL variation less than .010 in a hundred reloads.
 
I've used a Forster for years. I now do quite a few on a Lee Zip Trim as with about four or five pulls I have a trimmed, inside and outside chamfered case. You gotta have the collet chuck, however, for speed.
 
Yep, I've used the Possum Hollow trimmer chucked into my cordless drill on thousands of pieces of .223 LC brass and it has made short work of them. Great product.
 
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