Finally took the plunge into reloading tonight

[ghh3rd]

I just ordered the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit that includes the following:

Breech Lock Challenger Press
Three quick-change bushings
Perfect Powder Measure
Lee Safety Scale
Powder Funnel
Case Preparation Tools (cutter and lock stud)
Chamfer tool
Sizing lube
A small and large primer pocket-cleaning tool
Large and small Safety Prime

I'm also about to order:

Lee "Modern Reloading Second Edition" Reloading Manual
Don Dorn's Shooters Program CD-ROM
Lee Deluxe Handgun 4-Die Set 38 Special, 357 Magnum (carbide set)
Some extra Lee Breech Lock Quick Change Bushings
Case length gauge

It's late (1:30 am) so I will try to figure out what else I need that's not in the kit or in my "about to order" list. If anyone wants to look over my list and suggest anything else I'd appreciate it.

By the way, I heard it's better to just buy the primers and powder locally. Does anyone have a favorite internet bullet vendor -- I'd like to pick up a few hundred each of cast and FMJ bullets to start off with, and don't really have any idea of what a fair price would be.

Thanks everyone for all of the help and patience that I've received in my other posts. I've thought of reloading for the past 35 years, and am excited that I'll finally be doing it.

Randy

 

[lgbloader]

Congrats, Grr3rd

Please make sure you read the entire forward part of Lee's book, the section about hand loading. Read it over and over till you understand it. IF you have questions, please ask your buddy who hand loads or come to this forum and ask.

As for Cast bullets, try Dardas cast bullets, I hear he will let you buy by the hundred. for FMJ's, you should probably just buy these locally if you want to buy 100 or 200 at a time. I would only buy online if I was to buy 500 - 1000 minimum of the same exact bullet.

As for your soon to buy list.

I would suggest the following:

1) You need Calipers the first time you assemble rounds to measure OAL - dial or digital from Harbor freight(Cheap maybe $20-$30)

2) you need a reload bench to mount your new press.

3) vibratory tumbler to clean your brass along with cleaning media

4) Another Load manual - Lyman 48th or 49th edition

5) You may want to upgrade the Lee scale to a bit better one soon as well.

Try Unique as good beginning powder for 38 special and CCI 500 - small pistol primers

* I do think it was wise on your part to start your hand loading with 38 special and learn with this caliber. It is extremely easy to load for. Try this for a while till you get comfortable with the process as a whole and when you have complete confidence in what you are doing, start loading another caliber you shoot and then another. Don't rush it, after all, you have waited to start this for 35 years. Above all, Keep a sharp eye while hand loading. your bench should be in a place where you can be alone and concentrate on what you are doing. No Talking on the phone or watching TV, don't have the wife or kids around to be a distraction. And.. GO SLOW.

Happy Trails, Mate

LGB

 

[Five of Clubs]

I bought the same press kit last summer and it has worked very well for me (about 3000 rounds loaded and fired without any problems). I was going to give you all this great advice about what I bought in addition to the kit, but the previous poster said EXACTLY the same thing I was going to say. So to summerize: CCI primers, Unique powder, digital calipers from Harbor Freight, and later a tumbler. If I were you I would choose only cast or FMJ bullets (not both) initially since you will likely end up with different loads for each. I like cast, because they are inexpensive, and I get them from Stonewall Bullet Company, because they are inexpensive. BE WARNED, you will not save any money by reloading because you will start shooting way more than you did before.

 

[rfwobbly]

Randy -
We can't answer your question until you tell us all the calibers you intend to load and what volumes. Is 357 it?

 

[Walkalong]

I thought lgbloader gave a good thoughtful answer. Calipers. Yep. Must have. Tumbler. Yep. Very nice to have. Unique to start. Can't fault that.

.38 Spl and .45 ACP are about two of the best calibers to start with. Low pressure, lots of components available. Easy to get an accurate load with, etc.

If ghh3rd gets really ramped up reloading, he will start lusting for a progressive, and then it's wide open, but of course the Lee equipment will still work just fine.

35 yrs huh? Congrats on getting going. AC

Here is a thread with lots of links to good places for equipment, components etc.

 

[RugerBob]

Welcome to the world of reloading. You may want to get a loading block or two. Midway usually got them for around 5 bucks when on sale. Besafe ... Bob

 

[SASS#23149]

You won't need the sizing lube for pistol cases unless you just want to make the sizing operation go quicker.
what lube did you buy?
I LIGHTLY lube every tenth case just to make the sizing stage easier on the shoulder.
If you are starting out with new brass,size them just like you would fired brass before loading them.

 

[ghh3rd]

Wow, thanks for all of the feedback. I can't wait to shoot my first reload. It is .38 and not .357 that I will start with. I just ordered a little S&W 642 .38 snub and perhaps I will break it in on reloads. In fact, I read one post that someone said the had two guns that had never fired factory ammo. I like the idea of being able to control exactly how much power each load will have. Perhaps if I can make some lighter loads I can convince my wife to try shooting the little .38 too.

After I'm comfortable reloading for .38 I'll order dies for the .40.

Thanks again - Randy

 

[RustyFN]

First of all congratulations. If you are going to load straight wall pistol cases then I would try it without the lube to start. It will save you a lot of extra work. You will also want to have a couple of loading blocks.
Rusty

 

[jfh]

I have nothing particular to add to the "have-to-have" lists, save to say that

1. With an SS press, you will definitely want the reloading blocks.

2. Put that (cleaning) tumbler at the top of the third-buy list, and

3. Consider getting a Lyman P&R / 3rd (or the Speer 14) manual for a good introduction to handgun handloading.

For sorting out your ammo--I do think you ought to try, for example, a box or two of factory ammo--specifically, the Gold Dot 38+P Short Barrel 135-gr. rounds, and an "FBI" load, like the Rem 38S12. These are two good "reference rounds" that will give you a good idea of what factory SD ammo is like out of your lightweight.

These rounds will also give you a good basis for load development for your own rounds. For help with load development, use Google to search this forum on terms like "GDSB38+P", "158gr. lead," and so on. You'll find several of us have worked up excellent practice rounds, typically using AA#5 powder and lead bullets. Personally, I am in favor of using jacketed bullets for barrel break-in, particularly on the current guns built to a pricepoint--but others may not agree.

And, don't hesitate to ask questions. In reloading, there are no dumb questions except for the unasked ones.

Jim H.

 

[ghh3rd]

For sorting out your ammo--I do think you ought to try, for example, a box or two of factory ammo--specifically, the Gold Dot 38+P Short Barrel 135-gr. rounds, and an "FBI" load, like the Rem 38S12. These are two good "reference rounds" that will give you a good idea of what factory SD ammo is like out of your lightweight

That sounds like a good idea, to give me a reference point to compare to. By the way, for carry purposes I've heard that it's better to use factory ammo so you can't be accused of creating 'killer bullets'. In fact I've heard that it's a good idea to find out what the local law enforcement uses and get the same thing. I belive that my reloads will be strictly for practice.

I have been collecting discarded ammo boxes and their tray inserts at the range to have on hand to repack my reloaded ammo into. Would the inserts be usable as ammo blocks or are actuall ammo blocks better for some reason?

Thanks again,

Randy