Forget Halon, not readily available naymore and very expensive. The other issues cited are irrelevant. Forget CO2, To get a good 10BC rating, you are talking about a heavier than needed rig.
Go with Dry Chem. Yeah, they're messy but it's not for putting the powder out; 'cause that ain't gonna happen. You are dealing with a self oxidizing reaction and it is gonna burn itself out before you will even be able to deploy the extinguisher (unless you have way too much powder going). What it is for is dealing with the spread of the fire as buring powder gets kicked up to the drapes, on the carpet, or sets your bench on fire, etc. It is for dealing with the fire spread that will happen as a result of you setting off what is on your bench. Properly used, a 5 lb. dry chem. can put a lot of stuff out.
Store your powder away from electrical sources and other sources of ignition. Store your primers seperately from the powder.
The firemen that have answered thus far can tell you how fast a structure can become fully involved.
For the record, I worked as a fire inspector and have done asset protection for a living.
Go with Dry Chem. Yeah, they're messy but it's not for putting the powder out; 'cause that ain't gonna happen. You are dealing with a self oxidizing reaction and it is gonna burn itself out before you will even be able to deploy the extinguisher (unless you have way too much powder going). What it is for is dealing with the spread of the fire as buring powder gets kicked up to the drapes, on the carpet, or sets your bench on fire, etc. It is for dealing with the fire spread that will happen as a result of you setting off what is on your bench. Properly used, a 5 lb. dry chem. can put a lot of stuff out.
Store your powder away from electrical sources and other sources of ignition. Store your primers seperately from the powder.
The firemen that have answered thus far can tell you how fast a structure can become fully involved.
For the record, I worked as a fire inspector and have done asset protection for a living.
