First Build (Stevens 200 in 308 Winchester)

[cowtownup]

MY FIRST BUILD
I've been on this site a couple years now and have finally gathered the components to tackle my first build with. As I've looked at other build threads I have learned quite a bit and I want this thread to do the same for the next person. I intend to ask all my questions regarding my build in this thread so please bear with me. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but may have trouble from time to time especially with small tedious work that requires PATIENCE. If I add anything that I missed to the build I will try to keep the cost updated.

COST
I bought everything brand new except for the rifle (action) and the SSS LVT Stock...
I'm also listing tools that I didn't have that I felt necessary to get the job done right...

-Stevens Model 200 action.........................$ 200
-3 screw factory trigger............................$ 30
-X-Caliber 26" SS Varmit Contour...............$ 250
....1:10 Twist w/Recessed Target Crown
-Sharp Shooter Supply LVT Stock...............$ 150
....Accesory rail, Adj. Comb, Butt Hook
-Vortex Viper HS-T 6-24x50 SFP.................$ 550
-EGW 20 moa one piece base.....................$ 45
-Burris Signature Zee 30mm Med rings........$ 55
-NSS Barrel Nut (Stainless).......................$ 28
-NSS Recoil Lug.......................................$ 27
-NSS Action Wrench.................................$ 60
-NSS Barrel Wrench.................................$ 25
-Forester Go Guage..................................$ 28
-Gun SavR gunstock finish.........................$ 15
-FAT Wrench (in/lb torque wrench)..............$ 50
-Shipping charges........(estimated).............$ 50

TOTAL COST TO DATE...................$1563


RIFLE'S PURPOSE

This rifle is mainly going to be shot from 300-500 yards ringing steel and punching paper. Around where I live finding a 1000 yard shot is near impossible. Hopefully we can find some 700-800 yard shots soon. I may occasionally take a deer with this rifle since I'm building on my deer rifle action.. Hopefully I can find another short action Stevens 200 to put this sporter barrel back on and have my deer rifle back. The way the rifle sits right now I can shoot right around 1 MOA and that increases as I get out past 300 yards to 1.5 MOA... I'm really hoping to see 1/2 MOA accuracy with this new build at short range and hopefully at medium range also as I become a better marksman.

PICTURES



Always gotta set the barrel in the channel and get a feel for what it will look like... LOL



COMMENTS / SUGGESTIONS
I most certainly welcome any suggestions or advice regarding this rifle. Comments or questions are welcome also...

 

[viking499]

Looks like fun.

I like the looks of that stock.

 

[aubie515]

I'm shocked you got SSS to ship you anything...their CS sucks.

 

[Tophernj]

Nice looking rifle. I have to ask, though, why did you go second focal plane on the scope?

C

 

[cowtownup]

The palm swell on that stock is just right... This is my first aftermarket stock so I didn't even know how much a difference it made until I bolted my barreled action in this thing to try it out...

I bought the SSS stock used so i didn't have to deal directly with them.

I went with the 2nd focal plane primarily due to cost. I also typically shoot at known distances and don't really use the recticle to range targets. I would have loved to tried a FFP optic and may possibly buy one of the Primary Arms scopes in FFP just so I can get a taste of it without breaking the bank to see if thats something I would use...

 

[MtnCreek]

You may find the barrel does not want to just spin off after removing the nut. Two cheap alternatives to a store bought barrel vise:

1) Pipe Wrench. Secure the action wrench in a bench vise and turn it off with the pipe wrench. It will damage the barrel.

2) Get some oak lumber (I used 1.5x1.5 from the Home Depot). Cut it into two pieces of desired length and secure them together with screws (pre-drill screw holes). With wood bits, drill a few different sized holes making sure to center the holes where the two pieces of wood meet. You can use this in a bench vise to secure the barrel and turn the action with the action wrench. I used a little flour between the wood and barrel, but I've heard of folks using powdered sugar.

 

[cowtownup]

Thanks MtnCreek.. I think I'm going to try the oak lumber approach.. This factory barrel shoots pretty decent and I hope to find another action to put it back on so I want to make sure I don't scar it up if possible... You know I went back and forth trying to decide between getting an action wrench or a barrel vise to change the barrel with.. I guess I kinda need both...

 

[nastynatesfish]

I use a heat gun on my savages. I just put together a 6-06 and the heat gun removed the 3006 barrel no sweat. Normally after hear on the reciver thread end it will spin off easy

Never heard of your barrel maker? I use gunshack barrels(ershaw)

 

[nastynatesfish]

You don't need go gauges. Use a pice of sized trimmed brass. It will fit your chamber tight and not give as much case movement. I use that for all my savages

 

[cowtownup]

I got the barrel from Jim @ Apache Gun Works...

 

[TexasPatriot.308]

a few years ago I bought me a cheapo Stevens 200 in 7mm-08, chunked the ugly stock first replaced it with a Boyds walnut stock, had my gunsmith do some work on it with his "scalpel" added a 3x9x50 Nikon....it is a tackdriver and nowhere near how much you spent.

 

[cowtownup]

Yeah I was satisfied with the accuracy of the Stevens rifle just like it was. Only thing was I couldn't shoot that accurately but about 4 shots then barrel heat threw things out the window.

 

[Tophernj]

I went with the 2nd focal plane primarily due to cost. I also typically shoot at known distances and don't really use the recticle to range targets. I would have loved to tried a FFP optic and may possibly buy one of the Primary Arms scopes in FFP just so I can get a taste of it without breaking the bank to see if thats something I would use...

Makes sense to me. I completely understand.

C

 

[allaroundhunter]

a few years ago I bought me a cheapo Stevens 200 in 7mm-08, chunked the ugly stock first replaced it with a Boyds walnut stock, had my gunsmith do some work on it with his "scalpel" added a 3x9x50 Nikon....it is a tackdriver and nowhere near how much you spent.

Always feels good to criticize someone else, doesn't it? Maybe he had a different desire for his gun than you did for yours?....

Sometimes people need to just keep quiet and press the 'back' button before looking like a, well, you know...

 

[urbaneruralite]

Since you're already into it for fifteen, might as well go another two having sss slick the action and put on a long bolt handle. It'll be more enjoyable to shoot.

 

[herrwalther]

Looks great. I plan to do the same with a Choate US stock using the same action and same caliber. What is the action length between screws on the Stevens in .308? If you remember.

 

[Dr.Rob]

Nice to see a build that isn't an AR. Looking forward to seeing it complete.

 

[cowtownup]

urban, I thought about doing that but I'm kinda impatient and don't want to be waiting around for couple months for my action back... Have you had any experience with them lately? As far as bolt handle goes, I was going to spring for a Glades Armory SS bolt handle...

The Stevens 200 short action is 4.4" spacing on the action screws.

 

[TexasPatriot.308]

gee mr. allaround, I wasn't criticizing, just saying I got a helluva tackdriver at little cost. just stating a fact.

 

[urbaneruralite]

No idea

 

[herrwalther]

The Stevens 200 short action is 4.4" spacing on the action screws.

Thought so. The stock I have is for a Savage Long Action of 5.062"

 

[cowtownup]

I got started today... Started by removing the scope, rings and base... Took my time here to remove the blue loctite that was on the threads from previous installation and package everything away. Then I got out the NSS Action Wrench and installed it on the action. Here are a few pics of that so you can see how the cutout for the recoil lug works..





The allen head bolt screws in where the front action screw would normally go...



The directions say you need to keep even opening on both sides of the action wrench as you tighten it up on the action in this step.

 

[cowtownup]

Was able to play around with the fitment of the centerfeed blind magazine into the new stock and am having some issues here...

Here is how the magazine fits presently. When I place the action in on top of this, the rear tang sits up off the stock. Am I going to need to get the dremmel tool out here or is there another solution?






This is how I think the rear tang should fit. (this picture is without the magazine installed and the action sitting in the stock)

 

[cowtownup]

Continuing on with the barrel installation.. I cleaned the threads on the receiver really good and just inspected the action best I could with my limited experience. I put the action wrench in my vise again such that the bolt was right side up so I could easily work it to check headspace. I screwed on the barrel nut and put a fair amount of anti-sieze on the barrel's threads. Made sure I put the recoil lug in position and screwed the barrel on.. Everything went together just fine and was able to find the just right spot where the bolt would close on my GO GUAGE relatively easily. I ended up using a piece of tape that I mic'd out to .0035 and put on the head of my GO GUAGE to make my own NO GO GUAGE. It worked... I tried to set the headspace as tight to the GO GUAGE as I possibly could and still have an easy bolt lift. Finally, I torqued the barrel nut down to 30 ft lbs.

 

[cowtownup]

Regarding the issue I am having with the magazine, I talked to the person I bought the stock from and he stated that he did not use the clip. I decided to use a piece of cardboard as a shim between the magazine shroud and the inletting for the magazine to secure it. This did away with the clip for now and allowed the action to sit down on the pillar. This does cause contact between the rear tang and the stock, but I'm going to continue on and see how it shoots before I revisit possibly floating the tang and bedding the action. The magazine does function properly now despite the clip not being there and the barrel is completely free floated all the way to the barrel nut. It actually has a pretty decent amount of float to it so hopefully that will be advantageous to cooling...



Took the time here to clean the barrel from the manufacturing process... Here is what I got out...




Continuing on with the installation of the optics. I installed the EGW 20 moa base and torqued to 20 in lbs. Also applied a dab of blue loctite on those screws. I also installed the Burris Signature Zee rings and went with the +/- 10 inserts this time. I previously had 42 MOA of up adjustment which would have been plenty for my application but I went ahead anyhow with a little extra cant just in case a miracle happens and I get the chance to go long... LOL... Anyhow, installed the rings and torqued those to 30 in/lbs using blue loctite also. The Vortex Viper HS-T went on pretty easily since I already knew were I wanted it. Just had to level the recticle with my own little redneck leveling method and torque the clamp rings down to 30 in/lbs also using blue loctite.










After I got eveything tightened down I took it outside bore sighted the rifle. I could certainly tell that I gained some elevation adjustment from the +/- 10 inserts. I brought it back to the bench and measured the distance to the lands with the 175 SMKs as well as the 168 SMKs. Those results are:

175 SMK's = 2.845" OAL touching the lands

168 SMK's = 2.865" OAL touching the lands

I threw some once fired FGMM brass in the tumbler, put the rifle in the safe and calling it a day.... I will try to come up with a plan on load development this evening and try to start loading some rounds tomorrow. Hopefully, I can test drive this thing by the end of the week. If you can't already tell, once I start a project I pretty much move along with it... Sometimes working so quickly is my greatest enemy but its just my nature. My wheels are always turning and I'm trying to think out ahead most of the time... LOL....