First Muzzleloader kit, need some help

Status
Not open for further replies.

Noah Chisholm

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
14
Me and my Father are building a Traditions Prairie Hawken Rifle kit, but we ran into a problem. When fitting the tang we noticed the rear of the tang didnt make contact with the stock. I assume this is the most important spot you want a snug fit. The problem is, if we fit the barrel any farther back the lock wont line up with the flash hole and the screw holes in the tang and stock wont match up. What is the best course of action? Is any needed? Should I shim it with some spare wood lying around? Any response is appreciated.
Thank you
 

Attachments

  • 20190727_170608.jpg
    20190727_170608.jpg
    58.6 KB · Views: 70
Fill it with piece of hard wood or such material suited.
What is that line in the wood? Is it a crack?
 
You can epoxy the gap by applying "releasing compound" https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...eleases/acraglas-release-agent-prod41622.aspx on the metal parts, or you can use Acraglas https://www.greentophuntfish.com/br...ZcjM_wX9QsHTAySzlXs9wzq6nsQNwqO8aArOwEALw_wcB. The nice thing about the Acraglas is you can with some kits, adjust the color to match that of the stock, or in your case match the dye you're going to use on the stock.

LD
Thanks Dave, Acraglass is a bit expensive to get up here in Canada but it looks like the best option.
This should save me and my Dad alot of headaches, appreciate the response!
 
Thanks Dave, Acraglass is a bit expensive to get up here in Canada but it looks like the best option.
This should save me and my Dad alot of headaches, appreciate the response!

You're Welcome. Again, the advantage of Acraglas is choosing the color as you mix it. It's such a small area on your project, basic JB Weld epoxy will probably work. Just use a dark brown stain.

Get a small piece of maple at the lumber store. Cut off a piece, and glue it back on with the JB Weld, THEN test your dye on the maple to see how the epoxy looks when dye is applied to the surrounding wood, as a sort of test. That way, you will know if it looks too bad, or if you need a darker stain, OR if you need to drop the coin to get the Acraglas. ;)

LD
 
You're Welcome. Again, the advantage of Acraglas is choosing the color as you mix it. It's such a small area on your project, basic JB Weld epoxy will probably work. Just use a dark brown stain.

Get a small piece of maple at the lumber store. Cut off a piece, and glue it back on with the JB Weld, THEN test your dye on the maple to see how the epoxy looks when dye is applied to the surrounding wood, as a sort of test. That way, you will know if it looks too bad, or if you need a darker stain, OR if you need to drop the coin to get the Acraglas. ;)

LD
Thanks for the reply Dave, the area that must be filled is not view-able unless the gun is dismantled, so looks are not a problem. Due to the nature on how the tang connects to the barrel, an epoxy solution would be quite difficult. Would something like a hardwood shim suffice? Im sorry if this is a stupid question, but this our first kit and we are both novices.
 
You're Welcome. Again, the advantage of Acraglas is choosing the color as you mix it. It's such a small area on your project, basic JB Weld epoxy will probably work. Just use a dark brown stain.

Get a small piece of maple at the lumber store. Cut off a piece, and glue it back on with the JB Weld, THEN test your dye on the maple to see how the epoxy looks when dye is applied to the surrounding wood, as a sort of test. That way, you will know if it looks too bad, or if you need a darker stain, OR if you need to drop the coin to get the Acraglas. ;)

LD
To be clear, I do not mean a simple wood shim, but a peice cut from hardwood that would be as close to the original stock, if it were to be properly fitted in the first place, like an extension of that area of the stock. I am just concerned about an epoxy/acraglass solution because of the screw that must go through the area, and the way the barrel hooks into the tang.
Thanks again for your reply.
 
The area you're showing in the picture appears to be where the back of a patent breech meets the stock. If so you can still Acraglass it or use some other type of epoxy, just coat any steel pieces with release agent as well as the screw that goes through that hole. I am assuming this is a 50 or 54 cal kit? That area acts as a recoil lug and if not bedded it will split the stock with heavy loads. You will need to take precautions to keep the glue from running all over the stock by taping of any areas that you don't want glue to be. Hope this helps.
 
Get the glass, you will use a small amount keeping the rest for future repair or upgrade. I just bought a Spanish made flinter yesterday at a yardsale for $50.00. my first flinter. Own and have had several percussion rifles but my favorite bought a couple years ago is a Sears and Roebuck Kentucky made in Japan by Mirukure( didn't spell that right) it is a very nicely made .45cal..$140.00. shoots great with Black powder or Pyrodex"P (3fg). Need find some flints, any suggestion where...
 
Yes you want a good fit there. The recoil from the barrel is taken up there, so a fit over the whole area is needed and now only epoxy is going to give you that unless you're real good at inletting. Put some clay in the bolt hole for the lock. And the die Acraglas gives you will make it darker than what you want . A little goes a long way.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top