First time gun owner - gun cleaning

[cdahl383]

Picked up my first gun just a couple weeks ago, a Ruger 10/22. Put about 300 rounds through it at my buddy’s house at his range.

Reading a lot online about cleaning a gun. How often? What should be cleaned? What products to use? Full disassembly or quick cleaning, etc.

Ive seen responses all across the spectrum. Clean it after every use. What it needs to be cleaned? After every 500 rounds. Once the action gets gummed up.

Then there is products. Bore snake, cotton patches, oil, etc. I have a Ruger gun cleaning kit but not sure what I should be using and when.

Interested to hear some more experienced people’s ideas and suggestions. Thanks!

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

You have the owner’s manual there in your picture. What does it say? It should tell you how far to disassemble your rifle for cleaning, and what to clean, at a minimum.

Opinions on this topic will fill the sea and then some.

Personally, I’ll clean after a range trip if I know I’m not going back for a little bit. If I’m out dove hunting or something I’ll start with a clean gun but won’t clean it the whole weekend until I get home. These days, it’s really up to you to decide how to take care of your tools.

for materials, there’s no need to get fancy with a 10-22. Use a CLP (clean, lube, protect) and the kit that you have. Find or make patches that fit your bore-an old t-shirt makes a good source. No need to soak anything in the CLP. Just enough to leave everything with a film.

 

[Walkalong]

I tend to end up cleaning and oiling .22 LR actions when they get sluggish. I always mean to get them before they get sluggish, which is best, but........and how long that takes varies on the gun.

I clean their barrels if accuracy goes south. It can take a bit of shooting for them to settle back down after a cleaning.


Carry guns are different.

 

[DocRock]

With respect, it should have been disassembled and thoroughly cleaned to remove anti-corrosive preservatives on purchase and before being shot. Having said that, better late than never. It wants a good thorough clean and light lubrication. Thereafter, clean the barrel somewhat sparingly - maybe every 300 rounds or so at the most.

More rifles, coffee pots, and small boys have been ruined by over cleaning than near about anything else.

 

[rust collector]

I am always torn between the desire to insure that the new or new-to-me gun functions properly before I go to messing with it, and the desire to make sure the machining lube and rust preventers are out of the way before I apply my secret sauce (a reference to ongoing disputes on the best gun lube and preservation routines).
Manufacturers know that most buyers do not want to disassemble their new gun, so you can be sure that there is no harm in just shooting it. After all, it was fired at the factory. Rimfires are low maintenance in any event, so I will make sure it is wiped off with a slightly oily rag after use and check the bore now and again.

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

I do disassemble a new gun to get familiar w the operation of it. Especially if it’s a used gun or an unfamiliar action.

OP, just go through the manual. Read it. Then read it again and field strip it, referring to the book. Look at the cleaning instructions. Then reassemble according to the book. No problem. Enjoy!

 

[sparkyv]

Some folks are fastidious, others push the limit of filth. I'm usually in the middle. No need to clean more often than after a range trip; I've often gone two or three before I need to clean my 10/22. I've run my CZ P-09 several thousand rounds as a torture test without issue. YMMV



Now that's funny.

More rifles, coffee pots, and small boys have been ruined by over cleaning than near about anything else.

 

[Random 8]

Your Ruger is a proven workhorse known for reliability. I tend to follow a very simple cleaning regimen. Parts will wear out from frequent disassembly also!

For a rifle such as yours. Initial out of the box: I will remove trigger group. Hose it down with starting fluid (outside). Hose down the inside of the action (outside). Allow any grease/crud to run out with the fluid. Lightly oil moving parts in action and trigger group with JB-80 or Liquid Wrench. Reassemble. Repeat every 500 rounds or so, depending on use in dusty/wet conditions or especially dirty ammo (Rem Thunderbolt, and others). Note my only cleaning and lubricating solutions are found in the automotive section and are much less expensive than "gun" products. They work well on your lawnmower also. When you get into centerfires, a few specific "gun" products have specific uses, but are overkill on a rimfire.

After any shooting or handling I will lightly wipe all steel surfaces with lightly oiled cloth. After getting wet, I will warm/dry the rifle gently, wipe surfaces with oil cloth, run a dry, then oiled patch through the bore. I like a one piece stainless rod with a patch puller "loop". I only clean the bore on rimfires if they have gotten wet or accuracy degrades significantly.

 

[cdahl383]

Thanks guys. Was just reading through my manual tonight. Might take it apart to clean it here soon, but I need to get some oil first.

One guy above said liquid wrench works. Should I use this or WD40 or specific gun oil? I’m assuming gun oil is a better choice, but I know literally nothing about cleaning guns or why something is better than the other.

If I should get some gun oil, what’s the best choice out there?

Here’s the cleaning kit I have. Think I just need some oil and then I can clean it up.

 

[cdahl383]

This stuff here seems to have a lot of good reviews...

 

[ExAgoradzo]

You have found the right group
Welcome
Greg

 

[Mosin Bubba]

I don't even think about cleaning my 22s until the action starts getting sluggish.

Now with that being said that I'm no cleaning snob, WD-40 is the last light oil I'd use on a gun. It's meant as a rust preventative, NOT as a lubricant for moving parts. In fact, it will dry to a varnish that will gum up moving parts.

CLP's good stuff, 5W-30 motor oil is a great redneckin' it sort of solution, and personally, I use Hoppe's 9 lubricant oil because I got a lifetime supply of the stuff with a great case buy a while back. They all work. WD-40's one of the few options you can find that won't work.

 

[DocRock]

As per above, WD40 is a bad choice for a firearm lubricant. It will dry to a varnish like finish and gum stuff up.

 

[Skylerbone]

I clean after every trip excepting hunting rifles before season. For those, starting with a clean bore, I fire a box of my intended field ammo to check zero and coat the bore. From there it’s not cleaned or disassembled until season’s end.

Cleaning. Always a 1-piece rod, never a pull through or segmented. I start with a loop and a single 3/4” patch with Bore Shine to wet things down then switch to a nylon brush. Then a pierce jag and Bore Shine till it comes out clean.

The guts of a 10/22 can be cleaned with a few squirts or lighter fluid and there’s really no need to do more than let them dry after.

My most accurate .22 is the same one I personally hunt with and have hunted with for 28 seasons. No degradation in accuracy from the routine and it's cleaned on average two dozen times a year.

 

[cdb1]

With Rimfire rifles I do exactly as Walkalong does.

And like Skylerbone I use a one piece rod.

 

[FranklinDelanoRomanowski]

Hickok45 recommends Ballistol... been using it on everything I own for two years without fail. It does it all.

 

[cdb1]

I’ve been using Break-Free CLP for over 10 years, it works fine for my needs.

 

[FL-NC]

I have a 10-22 I have owned for 30 years, It has never malfunctioned that I recall. It is also very accurate. It has been disassembled and cleaned 2 times. And once was because I was really bored one day during the dos-equis virus quarantine. Normally, after I use it I just put a couple of drops of motor oil on the bolt and wipe some on the outside metal so it won't rust. YMMV.

 

[Random 8]

I'm the guy that uses liquid wrench, JB 80 or Zep. I like penetrating oils for semi automatics (except conceal carry pieces, there is a rumor it can kill primers over extended time, and I won't take chances there). I do use CLP to a limited degree on other centerfire actions. Hoppes #9 is also a very time proven solvent and light lubricant (the carrier is basically kerosene, which provides some lubrication and rust prevention). I've just found the penetrating oils to provide as good or better rust protection and lubrication as any "gun" specific oil. There are good "gun" products out there, I just don't feel the need to spend the extra $$$ for glorified machine oil. As above, avoid WD 40 except in emergency.

 

[sparkyv]

I use Hoppes #9 to clean and and just about any oil will do to lube up, though I've never used WD40. I finish with silicone oil wipe down. No high-dollar stuff required.

 

[Ernie Bass]

 

[FFGColorado]

I have a takedown 1022. Every time I shoot it, I clean the barrel. When it starts getting ornery, I take it apart, trigger group, slide, etc, and clean it more throughly.
BUT, it's seldom gets 'ornery, so I do that complete clean about every 3rd time I take it out.

MANY youtube videos on how..

BTW-WD-40 is a solvent first and foremost. Yes it has some petroleum product stuff in it but it's mostly a solvent, regardless of what it says on the can..

 

[792mauser]

There's the gammut from stripping the rifle down to its component parts and ultrasonic cleaning everything. To Pop's method for his Glenfield, pouring oil in to flush it out then wiping with a rag.

You'll get good advice here.
And you'll figure out what works for you quick.

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

OP, the picture of the BreakFree you posted will be just fine. You can find that in lots of places, it works well and it isn’t expensive. Just roll with that-it doesn’t need to be a difficult decision (although you may wanna shop on price-Walmart carries it and can save you about $5-7 off that price).

PS- DO stay away from WD-40. Please.

 

[cdahl383]

Thanks for all the tips!

Looking forward to cleaning my gun for the first time!