First time loading .308, quick question for y'all...

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UKWildcatFan

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Ok, firstly they look PUUUUUUUUUUUUUTY!!! Wow, I'm used to buckets of .45 reloads. Well, I've moved on to "big time" with my first large rifle reloads and I'm tickled to death.

NOW...I'm using Hornady's 150g FMJBT and I've seated them to the cannelure but do I now apply a slight crimp? I'm of the belief that I do but wanted to make sure on here before I deinstall my dies and put it all up for the night.

I appreciate your info.
Alex
 
There is no reason to crimp unless you are shooting them in a semi-auto.

And even then, I don't.

If your case neck tension is as it should be to hold the bullets in place?
All you are going to accomplish is having case neck splits sooner and shorter brass life.

rc
 
you shouldn't have to, but you can if you want to.
All you really need to do is take any belling off the case mouth..
 
I agree but you should have tried a few loads to see what shoots best.
 
About the only bottle neck cartridge I would even consider crimping would be for a tubular magazine firearm. And even then, only if I encountered issues.

Drop the crimp and you'll not only save a little set up time, but you'll avoid all the problems most have crimping bottle neck cartridges. Save crimping for wheel gun cartridges, where it actually has a necessary purpose.

GS
 
30-06 bolt action rifle, I do not crimp
308 bolt action rifle, Again I do not crimp.

30-30 lever action? I crimp. Semi Autos, The general idea is to crimp because the recoil can cause bullet set back but a lot of people have been able to do it without crimping due to sufficent neck tension.
 
I use the Hornady 150 FMJ in both 308 Winchester and 30-06, loaded for semi-auto rifles, M1, M1/308 Win, and M1A.

i do not crimp either of them, in fact, the 30-06 is not even seated to the cannelure.

Also, I do not crimp for AR rounds for 223 Remington, 204 Ruger, 17 Remington and 300 ACC Blk.
 
Yeah I dont crimp 308 either. I also shoot varget...think my pet load is 44 but cant recall...thats what my little book is for. If you have time take 4 sets of 5 shot groups with you in different grain loads. I normally start somewhere close to minimum and go .5 grs difference between each one. That way you might figure out what amount of powder works best. Just make sure you shoot a different target each time and write it all down.
 
Ok, thanks Bowfishrp. Much appreciated. Yep, my father and I are going to load about a total of 20 and head up Saturday morning. He's 75 years old and living vicariously through me as he never did this stuff growing up. We're both having a great time, actually.
 
If you follow the Hornady manual I believe the bullet OAL will dictate that the cannelure will be exposed above the case rim. Now I've shot the Hornady's 150g FMJBT and seated to the cannelure before with a reduced charge. I'm only pointing out that when you get to a full charge load you may want to watch the minimum OAL specified in the book.
 
Ok, great. I don't have their reloading manual so I really appreciate your info, Robert101.

My local reloading shop, Graf's Reloading in St. Charles, has a guy named "Don" that I always take my new caliber reloads to for a quick inspection, etc. He's a "mentor" I like to look over my stuff before I take a new caliber to the range. I took them to him tonight and he said they looked great. I appreciate all the info from y'all and him. Really do.
 
UK, you are welcome. You may also want to pick up a digital caliber. Not expensive and invaluable to your reloading. Have a great time at the range.
 
Hey there UK. It's so nice to hear you spend time with your Dad, and are finding common ground to share with him at his age!

Have fun and give your Dad my regards.
GS
 
I'm also using 150gr FMJBT and Varget with my M1A.

42.2gr Varget seated at 2.765" OAL, no crimp. Using LC brass. It's been a good target load for me.
 
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