First time out with a .38

[Devonai]

After six years of firearms appreciation, I finally decided to get into revolvers. My experience had been limited to a S&W 617 and a Rossi .44 Special, and that was a one time outing. Shown is my first attempt with my dad's Colt Official Police .38 Special.

This is a 15-round string, each shot fired in single action mode, at 15 yards. The same parameters for double action resulted in the shots all over the place, but still on paper.

I was operating under the assumption that these types of .38s are supposed to be point of aim, point of impact at 25 yards with 158 gr LRN, which is what I was using. As you can see, I couldn't quite figure out the sights. The last two shots are in the black, and resulted from placing the front sight blade almost out of sight behind the rear ramp and aiming at the bottom of the bullseye.

Thoughts?

 

[Jim March]

Huh. That's a bit funky, ain't it?

I wonder if the front sight was filed for 125+P sometime back? You might look for signs of that. Sometimes somebody will do a real good job of re-filing while keeping it "rounded" but they'll still have to re-blacken it somehow and that'll show on close inspection.

You might try seeing what it does with 148 target wadcutters, then get a box of good 125+P JHPs. I recommend a Gold Dot-derived load (Speer, Proload, Black Hills, Georgia Arms) or the 130grain Winchester Supreme +P.

See where those go. That gun can take modest diets of same, esp if it's post-WW2. I'd avoid the Cor-Bon 110 and 125 +Ps, they're so close to "mild 357 spec" it's almost silly.

Worst case, if exacting bench-shooting of a good 158+P plain lead hollowpoint like the Winchesters or Remingtons has 'em still printing high, deepening the rear channel with jeweler's files (where possible based on the frame and rear sight shape) will drop the groups.

 

[Jim March]

Oh, another thing: LRN accuracy is sometimes iffy. Try something like a 158 Keith-type plain lead, or the hollowpoints that are derived from that shape. And the +P version of same might print a bit lower (coming out the barrel faster).

Also: your grip strength affects vertical printing. Limp-wrist it and the barrel will come up further while the bullet is still in it, sending it higher.

 

[only1asterisk]

Just going to back Jim up on this one. 158 grain LRN factory loads are not known for accuracy. 148 gr HBWC will likely do better. Everything Jim said is right on.


David

 

[jar]

I'd suggest a good look at the crown on the OP. Also, those old sights are not known for their accuracy although They sure do work well for what they were intended for. I've had the best success when I use that two stage front sight, by bringing the blade part up until the thin section is just in the rear groove , top not extending above the top edges of the rear groove. Then doting the i.

 

[Jim March]

Jar: ya, good catch, a ding on the crown could do this. Worth checking. With the gun unloaded AND the cylinder swung out, run your finger into the end of the barrel and spin it, you'll feel any dings. Go light at first in case there's a scratch bad enough to actually hurt you.

 

[Old Fuff]

It may depend on how "old" your particular revolver is. Prior to World War Two Colt would usually target Official Police revolvers with standard 158-grain R.N. at 20 yards. However different people hold a gun and view the sights differently.

The first thing I'd do is shoot off of a rest at 20 yards or so to eliminate human error. Then if the Colt isn't grouping where it should try some different loads and bullet weights. Somewhere in the bunch you'll find one that will shoot where you want it too.

 

[tbeb]

Ever bore is different and you just don't know what weight bullet it will like until you test fire. You might try a 158 gr. lead semi-wadcutter or 148 gr. lead wadcutter like some suggested. However, by the look of your target, I would try an inexpensive 130 gr. jacketed load like the Federal American Eagle or Winchester USA. A lighter bullet "should" print lower. Good luck.

 

[Master Blaster]

After six years of firearms appreciation, I finally decided to get into revolvers. My experience had been limited to a S&W 617 and a Rossi .44 Special, and that was a one time outing. Shown is my first attempt with my dad's Colt Official Police .38 Special.

Thats pretty good for your first outing with the revolver.

How does it shoot for your dad?

My advice, fire a couple thousand more rounds with it, practicing trigger control and sight picture.

My guess is that the group will improve.

 

[George Hill]

Rifling could be shot out too...

 

[Standing Wolf]

I was operating under the assumption that these types of .38s are supposed to be point of aim, point of impact at 25 yards with 158 gr LRN, which is what I was using.

The gun is sighted for a six o'clock hold rather than a center hold. The six o'clock hold is still the most prevalent in bullseye shooting, which is more accurate for most shooters.

.38 caliber wadcutters will almost always deliver better accuracy than round-nosed bullets. Replacing the Colt factory stocks would probably help.

 

[Devonai]

Thank you all for the input.

Thats pretty good for your first outing with the revolver.

Thank you, but the 3.5-4# single action trigger would have to get most of the credit in this case.

How does it shoot for your dad?

I don't know, my dad was never much of a gun guy. That's part of the reason why the Colt belongs to me now.

Rifling could be shot out too...

It looks fine to me, if my newer firearms are any comparison.

The gun is sighted for a six o'clock hold rather than a center hold.

I'm not sure what you mean. Being used to autos, it took some getting used to (I can see why the Taylor T-Grip is so popular). My grip is as high as you can go, with the web of my hand all but covering the backstrap all the way past the frame. Shooting Weaver with this grip was no fun, as the trigger guard kept slamming into my left index finger during recoil.

Replacing the Colt factory stocks would probably help.

I agree, but I'm a HUGE fan of "stock" firearms, and usually modify a stock weapon only if there is either a huge inherent problem with the weapon or the mod is relatively unobtrusive, such as Trijicons. I only plan on carrying this weapon for self-defense once in a while, and never for competition. I plan on picking up a M1917 sometime soon as a boondocking/toothy critter blaster, so if the grips pose a problem on that one I probably will replace them.