schmeky
Member
I know frame rails can be formed to accomplish a better slide/frame fit. Can a slide be done in a similiar manner? I have 2 slides and one frame, both slides are looser than I would like, but I don't want to alter the frame.
Fitting a 1911 Slide to a Frame
- Thread starter schmeky
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BBBBill
Member
More risk of damage to the slide. It is heat treated much harder. Tougher to reshape and might crack. Folks have broken the slide rails squeezing for a better fit. Just curious, why are you concerned about the frame?
schmeky
Member
Frame is a Norinco that has been melonite refinished and has excellent fire control internals. May be better off to buy a match fit slide.
The slide/barrel fit is much more important the the slide/frame fit. I have peened frame rails and squeezed slides (and cracked one). There is almost no gain in accuracy or reliability. Installing a match grade barrel is going to help considerably more.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
BBBBill nailed it. Hardened slides are tricky to squeeze without hearin' that dreaded "tink" that comes when ya bust one. Ask me how I know...
It can be done...but not quickly.
First, use a caliper to measure 3-4 points between the rails.
Apply about half as much squeeze as you think you need...and walk away from the vise for a couple days. Go back and tweak it just a tiny bit tighter...and walk away again. After 24 hours, remove it and measure to see how much you've closed it. It will spring back when you take it out of the vise, but the time should allow the steel to "creep" a little and retain some of the squeezed dimension. Repeat.
I emphasize...go S-L-O-W. Don't get in a hurry. Heating it in an oven to 200 degrees prior to placing it in the vise will make it less likely to crack than starting cold.
It can be done...but not quickly.
First, use a caliper to measure 3-4 points between the rails.
Apply about half as much squeeze as you think you need...and walk away from the vise for a couple days. Go back and tweak it just a tiny bit tighter...and walk away again. After 24 hours, remove it and measure to see how much you've closed it. It will spring back when you take it out of the vise, but the time should allow the steel to "creep" a little and retain some of the squeezed dimension. Repeat.
I emphasize...go S-L-O-W. Don't get in a hurry. Heating it in an oven to 200 degrees prior to placing it in the vise will make it less likely to crack than starting cold.
schmeky
Member
Drail,
If I remember correctly, Kuhnhaunsen's book says the slide to frame fit is responsible for 15% of the accuracy potential. I have read of "rattly" 1911's that could still shoot well at 50 yard BE's.
Tuner,
I may be better off not trying to squeeze a slide, I would probably wreck it. Thanx for the help though.
If I remember correctly, Kuhnhaunsen's book says the slide to frame fit is responsible for 15% of the accuracy potential. I have read of "rattly" 1911's that could still shoot well at 50 yard BE's.
Tuner,
I may be better off not trying to squeeze a slide, I would probably wreck it. Thanx for the help though.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Probably break your vice anyway.
It takes a real good vice to squeeze a slide.
Common cast iron ones won't hack it.
rc
It takes a real good vice to squeeze a slide.
Common cast iron ones won't hack it.
rc
schmeky
Member
RC,
Just curious; if you had a somewhat loose slide to frame fit (i.e. audible rattle), but you had a properly fitted match barrel with consistent 100% front lug engagement with tight lower lug support and a minimal barrel bushing fit, wouldn't this tend to dictate slide position at lock up?
I see the triangular support of barrel hood/upper lugs and the lower lugs, then mated with the barrel bushing forcing the slide into consistent battery. Correct?
Just curious; if you had a somewhat loose slide to frame fit (i.e. audible rattle), but you had a properly fitted match barrel with consistent 100% front lug engagement with tight lower lug support and a minimal barrel bushing fit, wouldn't this tend to dictate slide position at lock up?
I see the triangular support of barrel hood/upper lugs and the lower lugs, then mated with the barrel bushing forcing the slide into consistent battery. Correct?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yes.
But I question if return to battery can be 100% the same every time if the slide is loose on the frame.
I tend to agree with Kuhnhaunsen's pie-chart and the 15% figure.
Still, the things you mentioned account for way more then 15%.
Heres what Kuhnhaunsen says:
Mechanical Accuracy:
Fitted match bushing = 20%.
Consistent vertical lock-up = 20%
Eleminate rear barrel side play = 20%
Frame / slide fit = 15%
Headspace = 10%
Match barrel = 10%
Beyond reach = 5%.
Shooter Assistance:
Match Trigger = 50%
Match Sights = 25%
Match ammo, etc. = 25%
On the otherhand, if your gun shoots good like it is set up now, don't try to fix it better.
rc
But I question if return to battery can be 100% the same every time if the slide is loose on the frame.
I tend to agree with Kuhnhaunsen's pie-chart and the 15% figure.
Still, the things you mentioned account for way more then 15%.
Heres what Kuhnhaunsen says:
Mechanical Accuracy:
Fitted match bushing = 20%.
Consistent vertical lock-up = 20%
Eleminate rear barrel side play = 20%
Frame / slide fit = 15%
Headspace = 10%
Match barrel = 10%
Beyond reach = 5%.
Shooter Assistance:
Match Trigger = 50%
Match Sights = 25%
Match ammo, etc. = 25%
On the otherhand, if your gun shoots good like it is set up now, don't try to fix it better.
rc
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