I wanted to share how I fixed my 10/22 receiver for less than 10 bucks. The other day I broke out my new wheeler fat wrench which measures inch/lbs to torque down my 10/22 scope base. After I stripped the first hole I started experimenting till I had all four holes stripped. Great right? A little cussing and looking online provided some remedies but required mail order and a few days wait. So being impatient I set about fixing this myself. Went to the hardware store with fasteners and this is what I bought:
4 4mmX.70 black metric socket cap screws (similar length to factory screws)
1 Tap for said screws
1 Drill #30 drill bit for said tap.
Tools I already had:
Craftsman drill press (necessary unless you have a small bench vise and are very good with a cordless drill.)
Tap "T" handle
Hex key for the screws.
First order of business: take the rifle apart so that you end up with a stripped receiver to work with. Very easy with a 10/22.
Next:
Drilled out all four holes on the receiver with #30 bit and tap all four holes for new threads. Metal is soft so be careful, but easy to do.
Screws would just not quite fit through the ruger rail base so I drilled out those four holes with a bit just bid enough to allow the screws through (I think it was 5/32 but check first.)
Next the rail base needed all four holes counter sunk with a bit the same size as the 4mm socket cap screw heads. It was one or two sizes bigger than 1/4 (again eyeball your drill bit to make sure you use the right one.) I used the drill press to counter sink the holes until the bit just took off the black paint at the bottom of the existing hole to know that I had gone down the right depth and not too far. Actually had to reset the drill press three times going just a little deeper each time till I had it right. Next clean everything off and put the railed base on there with your new screws. I used a dab of nail polish for thread locker and tightened those down secure but carefully using a hex key. Worked great for me, solid and looks like it came out of a custom shop.
4 4mmX.70 black metric socket cap screws (similar length to factory screws)
1 Tap for said screws
1 Drill #30 drill bit for said tap.
Tools I already had:
Craftsman drill press (necessary unless you have a small bench vise and are very good with a cordless drill.)
Tap "T" handle
Hex key for the screws.
First order of business: take the rifle apart so that you end up with a stripped receiver to work with. Very easy with a 10/22.
Next:
Drilled out all four holes on the receiver with #30 bit and tap all four holes for new threads. Metal is soft so be careful, but easy to do.
Screws would just not quite fit through the ruger rail base so I drilled out those four holes with a bit just bid enough to allow the screws through (I think it was 5/32 but check first.)
Next the rail base needed all four holes counter sunk with a bit the same size as the 4mm socket cap screw heads. It was one or two sizes bigger than 1/4 (again eyeball your drill bit to make sure you use the right one.) I used the drill press to counter sink the holes until the bit just took off the black paint at the bottom of the existing hole to know that I had gone down the right depth and not too far. Actually had to reset the drill press three times going just a little deeper each time till I had it right. Next clean everything off and put the railed base on there with your new screws. I used a dab of nail polish for thread locker and tightened those down secure but carefully using a hex key. Worked great for me, solid and looks like it came out of a custom shop.
