Flintlock question

[S&W657]

I recently bought a Cabela's brand Davide Pedersole traditional flintlock from a guy at work, that got it out of the Bargain Cave. It is NIB, but no paperwork and I think the double set trigger doesn't work, but I'm not sure as I have nothing to compare it to. I got it for 250 as apposed to the 550 price tag, so if it needs a little somethin, I won't be upset. I'm not a BP noob but this is my first flintlock and I'm excited.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Well you got a bargain. You may want to download the Pedersoli Muzzleloading Guns Owner's Manual.

Your set trigger might be missing the adjustment screw, or... it may be screwed in too tight. The manual should give you all you need to know.

OH and many of the guys that own and shoot these get a .17 or .22 caliber brush, as the breech is a "patent" breech... which means there is a chamber in the actual breech plug that connects to the touch hole, and this smaller area can get fouled as a normal brush won't get down into it.

Also, some folks have accuracy problems as the barrels are sometimes cut very sharp... so the patches get cut which screws up accuracy. So when shooting, check your patches. I polished my bore with small pieces of "green scrubbie" that are normally used for cleaning cooking pots. No worries.

LD

 

[BCRider]

I've got that same sort of chamber on my Lyman. I've been using a worn .308 brush and it's working nicely with a good bite to get it into the chamber.

Along with the manual strip the gun down and pull out the set trigger. Nothing like working the action in one hand under a nice bright light and the manual in the other.

 

[S&W657]

Thanks

Thanks for the info gentlemen! I will play with it tonite after I download the manual.

 

[MEHavey]

Assuming the set screw (the small one between the two triggers) is actually there:

1. Screw it in (not tight, just "in")

2. (Without pulling the hammer back) set the rear trigger and hear it 'click'

3. Gradually unscrew the set screw until the set trigger lets go.

4. Screw the set screw back in one turn. That's your starting point.

 

[1911 guy]

Also realize that the first stage on some of the Pedersoli rifles is pretty stiff.

I have one and what Loyalist Dave says about patch cutting is true. Mine cut patches for a while and then suddenly accuracy went from "ho-hum" to very good.

 

[loose noose]

I used valve grinding compound on my Pedersoli, with a tight fitting cloth patch on a jag. I probably ran that patch thru it about a 100 times watching the O'Reilly Factor on TV. Definitely helped my patches from deteriorating after being shot. Also my accuracy improved by at least a 100% or there abouts.

What the others said about the set screw under the triggers, make sure that is there.

 

[S&W657]

Struggling

So, I'm playin with my flintlock, and taking your advise on how to set the triggers, I'm still struggling. The set screw IS there, and I do notice changes in the triggers while I move it in and out, but to my understanding (or lack there of) I would assume, as I cock the hammer, the rear trigger and front both somewhat "set" forward, so as to shoot, pull the rear...causing less pull on the front to release the hammer? I apologize for my lack of understanding, and if anyone could offer more advise, it would be appreciated.

 

[4v50 Gary]

You got it. Squeeze the rear trigger first to take up the weight. That sets the front trigger as a hair trigger. Touch it and the hammer should fall.

Put a block of wood in place of the flint if you're practicing.

 

[S&W657]

I guess I should have specified... I can't get the rear trigger to "set" when I got the hammer. The main trigger still works, so all is not lost, but I just can't get the rear to cooperate.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Back out the set screw. If the screw is in too far it will prevent the rear trigger from "setting". You might also have to pull the trigger assembly and check it for crud or sawdust from production or even corrosion that is getting in the way.

LD

 

[loose noose]

Also you shouldn't have to let the hammer fall while adjusting the set trigger, just with the hammer all the way down and just off the frizzen, pull the rear trigger until you hear or feel a light click, then pull the front trigger, which should be very light. You might note that the rear trigger pull is sometimes in excess of 15#, however the front trigger can be as little as under 16oz.

 

[BowerR64]

I used valve grinding compound on my Pedersoli, with a tight fitting cloth patch on a jag. I probably ran that patch thru it about a 100 times watching the O'Reilly Factor on TV. Definitely helped my patches from deteriorating after being shot. Also my accuracy improved by at least a 100% or there abouts.

What the others said about the set screw under the triggers, make sure that is there.

Im trying to understand what is cutting the patch.

Is it the crown when you ram the ball? or is it the edges of the lands and grooves?

I had a gun that was pitted really bad i tried to lap.

I drilled a whole in a lead ball, then found a screw that had the same threads as my cleaning rod. I cut about 1/2" from it then using the cutoff wheel put a slot in one end. I screwed this little section into the ball and pounded it into the muzzle. Ive used the valve compound and the 40X bore cleaner from Remington with also has some media in it to polish.

 

[S&W657]

Success!

So finally after fiddling with my screws the last few nites, I got it to work! Thank you all so much for the info and suggestions!

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Last but Not Least...

The lock and the triggers in your rifle are set into wood..., and wood changes over time due to moisture and even to simple humidity, plus the metal in your lock and triggers is of course prey to corrosion.

So..., in fighting corrosion you may get some oil on the internal wood of the lock mortise or the interior of the trigger mortise..., and the wood might swell just a bit and push on parts causing some malfunctions. The same is true of humidity and the wood causing it to swell.

Not to worry it happens on a whole lot of black powder rifles. Simply check to see if you've broken a part, and if you find no damage to the metal bits..., look for wood rubbing or pushing on lock parts.

LD

 

[loose noose]

Bower, what kind of patching material are you using? I use pillow ticking soaked and dried with water and water soluble oil, in mine. Anywhere from 3-1to 8-1. Note 3 parts water 1 part oil etc.