FNP .40 locked up

[KansasPaul]

I was at the range last week with a friend and his pistol, a new FNP in .40 S&W locked up. It looks like part of the extracter is missing and a spring flew out from somewhere - not sure. The slide is not quite in full battery and there appears to be a case still in the chamber. I'm not certain, but it appears that there may be a bullet lodged in the barrel? I've not taken a good look at it, I'm working off what I remember and what my friend has communicated without the gun actually present. I can attest to the fact that the slide is definitely locked up. I'm not sure if a squib load was involved but I'm looking for some advice as to how to release the slide so that I can take a deeper look into what the heck happened. I don't want to damage the gun further. I'm not sure that shipping it back to FNH would be wise if there is a live round in the chamber.

I'm certainly open to suggestions...

Paul

 

[simmonsguns]

he can check for a live round by using a dowl rod to measure the depth from mussel to breach face, if it comes up short by about the length of a live round than there's his answer for that. what it sounds like is a case seperation or rupture with the extractor in it's state. if the barrel is bluged it's a bugger to get the slide off and would be best to send it back to the factory.but check for the live round first.

 

[GLOOB]

Strange combination of events, there.

I've had a bad round jam in a similar way. The mouth of the brass had a chip broken and doubled over, making it too big to fully chamber. Seized the gun up. It was a Glock, and I sorta guessed the problem, so I just hammered the back of the slide with my palm until it was in battery and fired out the jam. Obviously not recommended, esp when you have this other extractor issue.

If the round is jammed in the chamber and won't come out, then you might be able to unjam it by placing a small piece of wood between the barrel and the frame. Tape it on. Then jam the muzzle onto a solid wooden desk/bench so that the wood piece hits. It'll push the slide back and pull the jammed round out of the chamber. At least, if the extractor still works. If the extractor is fubared, then it might leave the round in the chamber. Before attempting this, I'd make sure the trigger is fully set and not damaged, so you know the FP safety is on. Not a great idea, otherwise.

If the slide is seized because of a bulged barrel, then this obviously won't work.

 

[Netgunsmithdotcom]

Reloads or fresh factory ammunition? If it is factory, and the dowel test shows a squib or case separation, document it with pictures and ammo case lots, etc. Speak with the company who produced the rounds to determine best course of action...not the best and fastest resolution in most people's minds, but a squib round can cause extensive damage even if it is only a single round. It's smart to let the manufacturer deal with the costs associated.

If it's reloads, do the same and get in contact with the producer...determine from there.

If they are personal handloads: do the dowel test, and if its a squib round, the gun is likely safe to knock the round back out through the chamber while securing the frame in a vise. Don't use a metal rod if you can help it, and if you do wrap the end in a piece of cloth or leather to protect breech face if the rod penetrates the brass/prier pocket)

If this is the case, mic (measure O.D. of) the barrel to determine outside dimensions do not include a ring or bulge. IF they do: find a new barrel/gunsmith. If they don't, check with a good quality bore scope to determine the viability of the barrel for future usage.

If the round is a FTF, then you should be exercising caution on trying to remove the round, and should meet with a qualified gunsmith at a facility able to handle FTF live rounds (most ranges with gunsmiths can do this).

If you must, you can take a piece of hardwood block and tap backwards on the top of the breech face as mentioned by another poster above, and perhaps get the weapon to open up. But exercise safety and caution, and don't stand in front of or above the path of the bullet.

When you do get it open, check for gouging, twisting, warping and damage to all parts of the barrel lock up system, including lugs, links, bushings and other areas (this is a general statement, not necessarily specific to this weapon), before attempting to reassemble/fire.

www.netgunsmith.com is going to be putting out some great tutorials on gunsmithing (far more comprehensive than this in the next several weeks, I invite you to take a look if you would like.

 

[KansasPaul]

Thank you for the responses. The rounds in question are reloads that I gave to the gun owner as a birthday gift. I have reloaded for years and I have never had a squib load from any of my reloads (I did have a factory squib, but that's another issue). The problem is compounded by the fact that when the problem occurred yet another person was shooting the gun so I really don't know what the sequence of events was. The detail I have came from the gun owner who said "my gun won't work and this spring shot out". The range lighting was poor and I couldn't see exactly what was going on with the gun. I feel really bad about it especially if the issue is tied back to one of my reloads. I'll do my best to try to get the slide back by using the suggestions above - I do expect to have the gun sent back to FN but I want to be sure that there are no live round still in the chamber.

Paul