For a revolver, how bad is it to.......(3 questions)

Status
Not open for further replies.

Eightball

Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
4,257
Location
Louisville, KY
It's universally acknowledged to be mechanically terrible for a revolver to be "snapped" shut if it's a swing-out cylinder. What about if it is a top-break revolver--ala the Schofield that, IIRC, was designed to be manipulated with one hand for cavalry (which would, I assume, involve "fwipping" it to snap it shut with one hand)?

And, since it's bad to snap a cylinder shut, how bad is it to "pop" it open? I see people at the range undo the latch, and then just kinda tap the cylinder out to the side and let it fall until the crane stops the cylinder's movement via the Frame. Is this as bad as you'd think? Is it "less" of a concern for J-frames than N-frames and the like? And, same question in regards to top-break designs.....how bad to "snap" them open to get them to eject, all with one hand?

And, last question. How does "frame stretch" occur from magnum loads? I might just be missing a big, mechanical "DUH," but.....everything happens in the cylinder, excepting lockup. How does a magnum round in the cylinder make a frame stretch?

Anywho. Enjoy these question!
 
Either snapping a revolver closed, or popping it open is equally damaging. It bends the crane/yoke, ad causes misalignment of the cylinder and barrel.

I wouldn't 'snap' any type of revolver open or closed. There's simply no need.

I'm no engineer, so I won't take a stab at why frame stretching occurs. I have a good idea in my mind - just not sure how to accurately express it.
 
I imagine slapping the cylinder closed is also very hard on the center locking pin. It's intended to be depressed as the cylinder is swung shut, then pops into it's locking hole. Slapping the cylinder closed means that pin gets beat pretty hard, and likely takes a lot more lateral loading then it was ever intended to. On a Ruger, that would also mean that the front locking bar also takes a beating on it's side - again, something it is not designed to experience.
 
First, yes, it can happen snapping it open, or closed.

No less concern on a J as on an N because the N cylinder is about twice as heavy as a J, and the crane isn't proportionately bigger.

Schofield's and other top-breaks are especially prone to damage from snapping them shut.

A calvary trooper would brush the barrel against his leg or whatever to close the gun.
Snapping it closed could result in half your ammo flying out of the chambers before the gun was shut enough to keep them in place.

Frame stretch happens because all of the rearward thrust from the case in the cylinder is concentrated on the recoil shield of the frame. The bullet in the barrel is being pushed one way by the high pressure gas, while the case & cylinder is being pushed the other way.

At first the case slips rearward in the chamber and slams against the recoil shield, then as pressure builds, it sticks to the chamber and takes the heavy cylinder with it.

rc
 
Last edited:
Basically the top strap becomes very hot from flame cutting, and then the recoil, combined with the very hot top strap, allows the frame to "stretch" and can cause excessive end-shake.
Steve
 
It is also worth noting that frame stretching could occur in the complete absence of any flame-cutting of the top strap.

That has very little to nothing to do with it.

It could happen on the first shot of a brand new gun if the cartridge was very over-pressure.

rc
 
In theory, the frame stretches some every time a shot is fired. In practice, it takes either high pressure rounds, or a lot of lower pressure rounds. As rc said, the case head impacting the recoil shield is the basic cause.

And that is why top breaks have an inherent weakness. There has to be enough clearance for the latch to open and shut, yet that point gets pounded at each shot because of the clearance.

Jim
 
Snapping a cylinder open or closed is not good for revolver longevity.
If you were in a firefight where reloads had to be super quick, snapping might make sense (after all, you're fighting for your life so who cares about the revolver's longevity?).
But, snapping the cylinder at the range makes no sense at all.
 
Only an idiot TV actor would snap a revolver open or closed. In the real world, it's the mark of a complete tyro.
 
Snapping a cylinder open or closed is not good for revolver longevity.
If you were in a firefight where reloads had to be super quick, snapping might make sense (after all, you're fighting for your life so who cares about the revolver's longevity?).
But, snapping the cylinder at the range makes no sense at all.

I have to respectfully disagree. At no time in an emergency would snapping open or closed make sense unless one had lost use of a hand.

Otherwise, just like in a tactical style handgun match, one is fastest and smoothest using a proper two-handed reload method and the cylinder is pushed shut with the hand as the revolver is lifted/pushed back up to acquire a new sight picture.

Take care of a gun, and it will take care of you!
 
FWIW, I wasn't intending the "how bad is it to snap the cylinder shut" to be one of the primary issues, since it's been (wait for it) beat to death. The other questions were more my mindless meanderings.
 
And, since it's bad to snap a cylinder shut, how bad is it to "pop" it open? I see people at the range undo the latch, and then just kinda tap the cylinder out to the side and let it fall until the crane stops the cylinder's movement via the Frame. Is this as bad as you'd think? Is it "less" of a concern for J-frames than N-frames and the like? And, same question in regards to top-break designs.....how bad to "snap" them open to get them to eject, all with one hand?

I think flipping it open would be as bad as snapping it shut. Either way you are going to bend the yoke.

It is my considered opinion that either motion should be controlled.

And that includes the top break revovlers. I have a Webley. I have handled Schofields. They can be bent or damaged. I do not believe they are as robust as solid frame revolvers.
 
S&Wfan
Otherwise, just like in a tactical style handgun match, one is fastest and smoothest using a proper two-handed reload method and the cylinder is pushed shut with the hand as the revolver is lifted/pushed back up to acquire a new sight picture.

I agree except closing the cylinder is a seperate operation from re-aquiring a sight picture. If you begin to combine these 2 eventually the mistake will happen and the gun will be fired while the support hand is still in contact with the cylinder. If a lucky finger is at the front of the cylinder it will just get burned, an unlucky finger will be burned off. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top