For "break In" To clean or not to clean?

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ruger67

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Hello, I have a question regarding the break in process for my new S[ringfield EMP that I am getting. I have heard that I should clean and lube the pistol and polish the feed ramp prior to shooting it the first time and then put 300-400 rounds through it before cleaning it again. the logic being that the carbon and or dirt in the pistol will help mate the surfaces and help the break in process.

I am accustomed to cleaning my pistol after each trip to the range and actually enjoy it so i am somewhat uncomfortable with going 3-4 trips to the range without cleaning it.

Opinions?
 
Clean and oil.

But leave the ramps alone. You can polish later if you need to. Oil is important, don't let metal rubbing on metal sieze up your gun.

You want the slide to wear in to the frame. Dirt won't help the gun loosen up, it'll just screw it up quicker if it deos anything at all. Probally deosn't matter.
 
When you first get the gun disassemble, clean, and oil generously. Run 500 rounds of FMJ through it keeping plenty of oil in it but don't clean.

The oil and carbon/powder deposit will lap the moving parts together giving you a nice smooth gun. You can wipe the outside surface off between range trips if it bothers you. The FMJ ammo will polish the feed ramp for you.
 
While everyone seems convinced that a feed ramp should be polished like a chrome bumper it really is not all necessary. If the mag presents the cartridge at the proper height and angle and it is able to slip under the extractor with the correct tension it will go into the chamber. Every time. 90% of the time a gun has a feed problem it can be traced to the magazine or the extractor. Plenty of sandblasted parkerized feed ramps filled with tool marks work perfectly. Just clean all of the factory rust preventative junk out and lube it good and shoot it. You also DO NOT need to run 500 rounds of ball through it to "break it in". It either is set up correctly and will function or it won't. If it's not 500 rounds isn't going to "fix" it. If you have any questions about your new gun ask a qualified 1911 smith or Springfield. If you really want to polish something remove the extractor and lightly polish the inside of the "hook".
 
Wow, all these suggestions for a BRAND NEW IN THE BOX pistol....Field strip it to familiarize yourself with parts, clean & lube like you've had the pistol for couple of years...If you have problems, you have a POS!
 
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. As a new owner I appreciate all of the help
 
Oil it and shoot it. When you are done, wipe the powder residue off the high spots, maybe run a patch thru it, then oil it. I wouldn't field strip it until a few hundred rounds had gone thru it. I don't break down my 1911's after a day's shooting. I just knock the dirt off/outta what I can reach with a Q-tip/patch and spray them down with oil.
 
It may be the case that back in the day, guns had looser tolerances and there might have been some benefit to running them for a while before cleaning. Today's precision machining makes it more important to keep a modern firearm cleaned and lubricated.
 
Field strip, clean and lube, fire at range, repeat.

Brand new guns often come with lots of packing grease on them. This is good for preventing corrosion, but the grease needs to go for good operation. Plus field stripping the gun is a good way to check it prior to firing. I like to generously lube the rails and other high-friction areas of the gun especially when new since these parts will be breaking in together.

Enjoy.
 
Instead of asking so called experts on this forum why not ask a custom builder and see what they tell you. I'm not talking about some Joe Blow that has put a kit gun together at his kitchen table. Ask Ed Brown, Bill Wilson, or Les Bare. They will tell you to run 3-5 hundred rounds through it without cleaning so the gun can properly mate. But then again if you don't care just go buy one and shoot it, it's your money.
 
They will tell you to run 3-5 hundred rounds through it without cleaning so the gun can properly mate
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That makes a true machinist cringe!!!:eek: Metal to metal w/o any lube is absolutely insane...This is a perfect example on how to refute the "break-in" comparison between a handgun and an automobile. Can you imagine driving a vehicle w/o any oil for even the shortest of distance? Has the world gone Mad or is it just me....:uhoh:
 
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He is miss stating the info. Guys like Les Baer tell people to clean and then lube the gun properly and shoot 300 to 400 rounds before cleaning it again.

They are not telling people to run it dry. This is a case of missunderstood info being posted as if it came from the horses mouth.
 
Over the years of purchasing NIB guns, I've had them range from sealed in a plastic bag swimming in oil (so much so that the sales clerk had to squish the bag to read the serial number) to bone dry. Even with the "well lubricated" gun, that oily substance is a rust preventative, not a lubricant for actual shooting.
 
Some firearms leave the factory with special lapping compound on the pistol so that the the final honing can be done by firing it 200-500 rounds before cleaning. Read the manual and see what it reccomends. Personally, I just shoot the firearms as is from when I receive them and get around to cleaning them down the road (500-1000 rnds pistols; 200-500 rnds rifles). None of them seem any worse for wear. I should probably read and see what the manuals say but I haven't.
 
Owner with hints - things that "can't hurt" - rather

He is miss stating the info. Guys like Les Baer tell people to clean and then lube the gun properly and shoot 300 to 400 rounds before cleaning it again.

They are not telling people to run it dry. This is a case of misunderstood info being posted as if it came from the horses mouth.
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...

Exactly -

Having owned an EMP 9mm, nearly 3yrs, and it was an early batch number and in the first 300 rounds, or up to that count, I had several feed issues with the heavier JHP's, 134gr (IIRC) and not a chance with 147gr JHP's.

This was in the first 2 weeks, 2 range visits, and I called SA, talked to a great gal, CS, about this feed problem and she said "hold on".. and then I got a nice gunny who "listened" as I told him no problems with 115gr or 124gr FMJ's and no problems with 115gr JHP's. But I was having problems with 124gr JHP's on occasion, way to many problems with 134gr and 147 was a no-go period.

He asked me what my serial number was, I told him #26** (on the high end) and he said they made a change to all feed ramp angles starting from 2550 on and that they still had an occasional tight chamber issue and to send my gun to him, by name, and he would get right on it, polish the feed ramp and chk chamber OR..

"You"/*I could do it myself, just do a light polish (again, he said the angle on mine should be good) *on my feed ramp and see what happens"

However, using some flitz on a FELT dremel tip is not going to damage the ramp and may improve feeding.
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Exactly -

He mentioned felt pad/dremal tool, go light.. but I didn't have one at the time so I thanked him (and got a call ticket in the mail within 3 days, anyway, just in case), as SA CS can't be beat IMHO..

I bought some Flitz gun polish (squeeze tube) and with gun apart, did a light polish job on the feed ramp, which appeared very clean - yet with the first application via Q-tip, it came off dark black.. I was surprised :what:

And then I did the chamber, which it, too, looked clean and it came out, first application, dark..

And while I was at it, did the breach face, looked clean, was clean.. lol

Then on the second application (clean application and polishing) both areas using Q-tips both, feed ramp and chamber in the same direction up and down, only, on the feed ramp, Key, and in and out on the chamber (not the barrel rifling).

That being done, gun with, around, 300 rounds, put her back together and put another, trouble free, 300 rounds of FMJ over 2 weeks along with 134gr JHP's, out of 20 had 1 FTFC issue while all 20 rounds of 124gr JHP ran perfect.

I did not open gun up again until she had 1200 total rounds with no failures of any kind using any FMJ 115 or 124gr and not any failures using Federal, or Remington golden Sabers 124gr JHP's..

Did another polish job, Flitz and Q-tips, and no black, not even close, and from that point on, she goes 800 - 1000 rounds per dissembley/cleanings and I only add *oil (but now I run Tetra white gun grease) via Vertical (gravity) applications of drip oil on for the rails and on exposed barrel and guide rod (via oil dipped Q-tip) just prior to heading out to the range once a week and

NO feed failures thru just over 7000 rounds now..

Longest time was 1400 rounds - using quick cleans of feed ramp and chamber (without dissasembley) adding oil once a week via Vertical oil application/gravity taking it down the rails and quick-clean and lube of exposed barrel (while slide locked open) and this was over a 3 month span.. no problems

They will run if lubed and inspected/ quick-cleaned, namely feed ramp, chamber (bore snake for barrel) for, IMHO, well over 1500 rounds IF need be.

With that information - do what feels "best for you" and not be lured in by those that say this or that "feed ramp should already be polished" or that "good copper bullets will polish the feed ramp" (and they will get no argument out of me over these thoughts) - but that's them, this is me, and, YOU are the owner of a fine gun..

Enjoy,


Ls

Ps.. my gun has a tight chamber and reloads are out and heavier 147gr JHP's and 134gr or 135gr are out but any 124gr JHP's (which I like) good velocity spin-up within short 3" barrel gets the accuracy - as in tack driver and a pure joy to shoot or depend on "anytime"

And in the 10mins, extra, it takes to do (during any dissasembly for total cleaning/lubrication) a, quick, little polish job - just because it hasn't hurt, can't hurt, and only help things slide smoother/longer if called upon and I do it with my Sigs as well..

Old (dependable/reliable) gun.. lol

Picture231.jpg

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I picked up my new EMP .40 at the local gun range, had ammo with me and promptly put 200 rounds thru it 'out of the box'. No issues at all, took it home, cleaned, oiled and back to the range a few days later.
Only issues I had was the rear sight came loose, almost fell off (had to re-sight and put a few drops of blue loctite on the set screw) and I had a grip screw come off and lost it. Checked and all the others were loose too. Called Springfield and they wanted $2.25 for a screw and $10 shipping! Told them that for a $1000 gun I expect it to be assembled properly and not have parts falling off it. They agreed to send the screw NC.
 
Thanks for your responses. As it turns out I had to send my EMP back to Springfield. At my first trip to the range I was having light strikes. About 1 or two per magazine with two different types of ammo. WWB and Federal Champion 9mm. I cleaned the pistol after the range trip before sending back to springfield. After seeing the responses I think I will go with cleaning the gun after each trip to the range versus running it "dirty" to break it in.
 
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