Forcing Cone Question - S&W 627 PC

[Capo]

Hello folks,

I have fairly new S&W 627 PC .357 revolver that may have some forcing cone issues.

I wanted to ream the deep machining grooves out of the forcing cone with an 18 degree reamer from Brownells - to correct SWC leading problems and improve accuracy.

Before going down that road, I checked the forcing cone with a .38 11- 18 degree plug gauge and found that the high end (large diameter) part of the gauge sinks down below the outer mouth of forcing cone face by about 1/16-inch.

From everything I've read on the forums and in Kuhnhausen's manual, the outer mouth of the cone has been factory cut is too large.

So my question is what to do now???? Is this a problem? Is it within S&W specs? Is it a warranty issue? Do I have the wrong plug gauge?

Any advice will be appreciated .....

 

[earplug]

I don't have the answers. A call to S&W will probably help you out.
Let us know what they say and offer to do.

 

[dfariswheel]

Talk to Smith.

If the cone is out of spec, they'll fix it.
The "fix" may be to turn the barrel in one turn and re-cut the cone, or barrel replacement.

Of course, the real test is, How does the gun shoot?
If it's an accurate revolver, leave it alone, is often the best option.

 

[Capo]

Thanks for the reply guys.

Considering that I'm a novice, it's kind of hard for me to evaluate accuracy. But I can say that my well used shooter grade Python with its over-cut forcing cone and tooling marks inside the barrel (near the frame) shoots much better using a variety of loads - go figure eh ...

I'm a firm believer in ... "don't fix it if it ain't broke" ...

But in this case, I'll give S&W a call to see what they can do.

Thanks for the help and talk soon ... Mike

 

[Tom C.]

Why an 18 degree cutter? I prefer a 5 degree cutter for .357.

 

[Capo]

Hi Tom,

No preference at my end.

Brownells recommends 18-degrees for jacketed and LSWC's and 11-degrees for LWC's. Found a similar recommendation in Kuhnhausen's manual.

Also, I suspect that you can follow an 18-degree cutter with an 11-degree or 5-degree cutter without exceeding the max diameter or cutting a compound angle (not too sure about that one ) ...

That's about it.

Why do like the 5-degree?

 

[Capo]

I shouldn't have sent it back...

Before calling S&W, I tried some accuracy testing and found factory jacketed bullets grouping well (2" @ 25 yrds). Lead bullets, on the other hand, grouped at about 8 inches (@ 25 yrds) using a variety of loads, bullet brands, crimps and powders (Clays & Win 231). Lead and copper fouling was very heavy.

So I called S&W and sent the revolver back - asking them to correct the forcing cone by replacing the barrel. Unfortunately, they decided to set-back the barrel. In the process, they gouged the face of the frame where the barrel threads on. Also, the cylinder gap is about .002 on the top side and about .004 on the bottom. And to add insult to injury, they recut the forcing cone to the same size that existed when I sent it in!!! Not sure why they did that ...

I'll give S&W a call tomorrow to see what they're willing to do. But to be honest, I'm not sure how they can repair the gouges on the frame of a new PC revolver without ruining it.

As an FYI, the diameter of the plug gauge I'm using is 0.379 inches.

 

[Tom C.]

I cut all my .357s with a 5 degree cutter. My 627s are particularly accurate.

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

I don't know what it will take for s & w to learn how to make the b/c gap even. Some years ago I bought a revolver that I had ordered. When I got home I discovered the b/c gap was .0115". I called s & w and they told me to send it back as their specs. for the gap was .011". I asked them to set it from .004 to .006 and they did.

 

[Capo]

Tom,


Does the 5 degree cone give you good accuracy with LSWC’s?

 

[Tom C.]

5 degrees gives very good accuracy in my guns with both lead and jacketed ammo. I have the 5 degrees in my CAS guns, a pair of NMBHs in .357. They are very accurate with my lead CAS loads. I just did it on a 6 1/2" .357 NMBH that just came back with a new barrel. Very accurate with .357 jacketed ammo, not so great with 9mm ammo. My two 627-5s and my new 686-6SSR are now cut to 5 degrees and are very accurate. I am still breaking them in with jacketed ammo and haven't used lead yet.

 

[magnum loader]

I am a new shooter with S&W & love this 627 SS but can't seem to get the cylinder staining off the satin finish, tried all kinds of cleaners too. So far I've put about 700 rounds of 38 & 357 thru it, should i be looking out for any paticular problems. Accuracy now is 2-3" with factory & upper end reloads.

magnum loader

 

[Capo]

That's good info, thanks Tom.

By the way, I called S&W and they said to send it back again.

If it weren't for the gouges in the frame, I could probably get away with refacing and squaring the cone to .006 gap and then recutting the cone to 11 or 5 degrees (by a local smith). But those darn gouges on a new PC revolver frame just don't sit right with me. ..

My third try at getting a picture uploaded ..

*****

magnum,

Yeah, I love the 627 too - it's fun to shoot eh!!! ..

I don't like the bead blast finish. S&W uses it to cover up fit & finish quality during manufacturing - i.e., cheaper to hide surface imperfections with a satin cover.

I sometimes use a brass brush with Hoppe's #9 on the cylinder face - works okay. Flitz or Mothers Mag & Al polish work real well - but I question too much use of abrasives on the cylinder face.

 

[dwave]

My SS revolver, I just leave the cylinder face black. I figured that I don't want to scrub on it every time I fire it, especially since I shoot 2 to 3 times a week. I clean it off, but I don't scrub.